3139 replies to this topic

[Dominator]

Here new build for a local racer at Modelville Hobby. His only request was for something a little "different" and for it to way in at 110 grams from what has been getting run there so here is the result:

JK kit (my first kit build)
4" wheel base
.032 backagra slightly lightened
.078 outer rails
.063 inner
All bracing was done with .047 wire.
Chassis weight 59.1 grams
total car weight 109.9 grams

[team burrito]

Chassis #2 done, a typical NorCal F1/Indy frame with a Slick 7 motor, geared 8/28.



I've been building this chassis for over 10 years & it still handles great.



Meanwhile, I've been testing my 1/32 chassis with a stock JK Hawk motor, geared at 8/39 (64 pitch) on SCR's flat road course.



I've tried it with & without brakes and they both work. I let Frank test drive it & now he wants one.



My next design will have a wider center section to accommodate a Slick 7 motor. The Parma MAC bodies will be a welcomed addition to this class. I will post the proposed 1/32 rules next week. Later.

[team burrito]

My next design will have a wider center section to accommodate a Slick 7 motor.

And here's the latest 1/32 design:



The gear hub is inside the tire hub, allowing for a slightly longer axle tube, but it still not long enough. The guide tongue is recessed to fit shorter bodies. Here's a view of the clean-looking bottom:



This is a closer look at the rear axle. It's supported with 3/16" U-channel & .015" strip to the correct height.



And this shows how the pans are attached to the front of the chassis, just like a Champion flexi chassis.



It occurred to me since the Slick 7 doesn't fit well in either configuration, maybe the stock Pro/Slot Euro motor would work better because of the lower power band. Something to discuss tomorrow. Later.

[Marty Stanley]

Russ,

Very nice implementation, innovative and interesting.

I take it you used .032 brass?

I'm looking forward to hearing how it works.

[Robert Rodgers]

I have been wanting to build a 1/32 retro and after driving my buddy Hip's TonyP Areo pod I have wanted to build a copy of it so I decided to kill two birds with one stone.

[MSwiss]

Robert,
Great looking chassis.

Tony will be contacting you shortly.
As the inventor of brass and soldering it together
to create slot car chassis, he will be expecting some
sort of commission/royalty. LOL

I love the concept of inline for 1/32nd chassis.
It solves a lot of width "shoehorning".

I would also either like to see Parma making smaller crowns or guys
going to larger dia. tires so you're not limited to just a 26T.

[team burrito]

Here's chassis #3 for Big John, a 4-1/2 incher:



Basically, it's the same as the first chassis, only longer & slightly narrower. The rear bracket had to be cut in order to fit .800" wide tires.



Here's a close-up of the rear end.



I tested this car tonight & it runs better than my race car (I hate it when I do that!). The whole car weighs 128 grams while my car is a 140+ gram pile (damn it!!). Another great ride for the big guy. (AAAAAAAAAAAHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH!!!)

[JimF]

Motor trays, 1/32 and beyond.......

I posted some pictures in the Nor Cal Retro forum of a couple of 1/32 anglewinders built around the idea of a "motor tray" that allows the frame to be built around the tray and eliminating the need for all the fiddley bends around the motor, This led me to wonder about the possible advantages in weight distribution in a couple of classes where I sometimes struggle getting enough rear weight without making the cars excessively heavy. The first try was the 4.5" stock car shown below and an F-1 followed. I have tested the 4.5" car and it took some tuning but so far it is about 2 tenths faster on the Purple Angel @ Fast Track Hobbies than the car I used to win the last race there. In fact, with this frame stuffed under a Can Am body, it was within .015 of my best Can Am there. (even @ 128 gr and only 3" wide)

Judging from limited testing, it appears that this concept will take some tuning but seems to have potential applications other than 1/32.

Here is an F-1 built on the tray with another 1/32 AW in background. This is 2 rails of .055 with the rails soldered to the tray only up to the little cutouts in the tray. Pans are 1/8" square rod and are fixed at front in sort of a fixed plumber arrangement. I'm guessing that this frame may have a little too much flex but if it does, it will be very easy to just solder the rails to the tray further forward.






Here is the 4.5" stock car mentioned above. Single rail of .078, pans are .032.

[Mopar Rob]

Here's chassis #3 for Big John, a 4-1/2 incher:



Basically, it's the same as the first chassis, only longer & slightly narrower. The rear bracket had to be cut in order to fit .800" wide tires.

Russ:

What rules do you you guys use in NORCAL for 4-1/2"? Just curious

[JimF]

My link

[Mopar Rob]

Jim:

Thanks, I was curious about the guide lead length. The rules explain it all

[team burrito]

I think Jim & I created a monster with this 1/32 class. A lot of racers got to try our cars & the response was very positive. So far, I've had orders to build three chassis. This is going to be my production model:



This chassis incorporates the self-supporting rear axle & a shorter guide length. This doesn't show the motor mounts yet as they have to be jigged in place.



Here's a view of the bottom. The pans are offset & trimmed to allow for full guide flag rotation. One down, two to go.

[PerryV]

Car Door, Retro Door Magnet. (I had to use there gallery and it was the best suited car photo)

I have other items made like Retro Cap, Pen, Mouse Pad and some other things.

Three R-Geo Retro Kit Chassis in photo.

I will post a photo of the other items when they come in.

[MantaRay]

Below is my latest Can Am Car. It is basically a Z-Rail /Torsion design. It weighs around 112 grams. Bill Worden machined in the 3/4" wide slots in the JK Nose piece. I used a JK Hypoid Motor Bracket with a trimmed Chicagoland Brack Agra. The bracket was notched on the sides prior to soldering in the plate. The resulting hole/slot will act as a up/down stop. On the top of the chassis, I soldered in two pieces of .032 to solidify and strenghten the area of the old slots. The torsion part is just .047 wire into 3/32 sq tubing. A Chicagoland Guide stiffener was used. The Z-Rail design lets the chassis load and unload with acceleration and braking. The torsion part give it a nice twist. Jimmi Bostrom did a nice rattle can paint job on the new Parma Lola T-163. Does anyone have a trick for cutting and mounting this body? The cut line is horrible, but the body looks teriffic. The car ran well with no lead on the king and flat track with a JK Ti22. I have not run it yet with the lLola
Thanks in advance for comments and questions




'

[slotcarone]

Nice chassis Ray!! The one thing I would suggest is to add more braces to the bracket. Look at the latest race report from HVR this past Saturday and you will see what I mean on the Can Am cars.

[John Miller]

Hey Ray,

Is that the car you ran at the last monthly race?

[PerryV]

[Tex]

Nice lookin' cars, Perry! You build 'em?

[MantaRay]

Hey Ray,

Is that the car you ran at the last monthly race?

Hi John.........No it was not...........Hopefully this one is better....lol......................see ya soon

[PerryV]

Nice lookin' cars, Perry! You build 'em?

thanks TEX, Yes I built them.

[MSwiss]

Ray built another Z-railer similar to the one he made in post #714.
He dropped it off today for local flat track aficionado, Graham Climpson,
who's going to give Retro racing a spin.

Graham slapped it together earlier this evening and after a fore-aft
change in the body position, I knocked out a 4.571 with it.

(FWIW, Mr. Big Stuff's TQ time at Sano 4 was a 4.594)

The 4.57 (and 4.58 back-up) was done "interiorless",
and with a new PS4002B-B ball bearing motor.

This one uses a 3/4" JK Bracket which "Z's" nicely into the stock 1"
slots in the JK nose pc. which makes for a cleaner build than the "714 " chassis.

[FastG]

I asked Ray to build me a car, so I had a good starting point to compare other cars to. Well Ray did an amazing job, exactly what I was looking for. I just slapped it together as quickly as I could just to put some laps on it. It just worked from the first lap, I think the first full lap it turned was a 4.6 with Mike at the wheel. As I have never raced on a king so I now have to pound out some laps out and try and generate some speed.

Thanks again Ray

Graham

[MantaRay]

Well after Graham's kind words and the success of this design, I have gotten orders for three more. This one is for another local racer. The small difference from Grahams is that this one utilizes The Chicagoland Mini-Brackagra. The sides were trimmed a bit and I cut notches into the front of the bracket to utilize the motor bracket centering pins on the RetroPro Backtrack Jig.

[Steve Deiters]

Well after Graham's kind words and the success of this design, I have gotten orders for three more. This one is for another local racer. The small difference from Grahams is that this one utilizes The Chicagoland Mini-Brackagra. The sides were trimmed a bit and I cut notches into the front of the bracket to utilize the motor bracket centering pins on the RetroPro Backtrack Jig.

Rail diameters?

[MantaRay]

All are .062