3139 replies to this topic

[JerseyJohn]

Looks good JJ!!!! I'm thinking it will weigh about 140 grams all dressed up and should work nice!!!

Thanks Mike weighs 62 grams

[Marty Stanley]

Double J,

Could you 'splain to me the cut on the front axle? Oiling I think?

[gascarnut]

Looking good!

Is that #20 I see under the nosepiece?

If so, then you have come a long way in a very short time!

[Cap Henry]

Here are the two cars I built for R4/4.


Left Car:
CHR Chassis #006
Copy of a Jobiwan Chassis
Dual .062 rails soldered solid
4" Wheelbase
Chicagoland Motor Bracket.
Weighed 102 Grams Complete

Right Car:
CHR Chassis #005
Dual .055 rails soldered solid
4" Wheelbase
JK Hypoid Motor Bracket
Weighed 106 Grams Complete with Pro-Slot
This was the car I ran in Can-Am.

[Greg VanPeenen]

Cap,

Nice work

Greg

[JerseyJohn]

Double J,

Could you 'splain to me the cut on the front axle? Oiling I think?

oil it is

[JerseyJohn]

Looking good!

Is that #20 I see under the nosepiece?

If so, then you have come a long way in a very short time!

Thanks Dennis.yes number 20. You're work is a great inspiration to me !!!

[911GT3]

Cap and JJ, Both are good looking chassis. I know at least of of Cap's was really fast at the R4.

A pretty ingenious design for the pan movement JJ.

The cut on the front front tube? If it were my car, solder would go there to hold the front axle. A place to put the oil sounds good to me too.

[JerseyJohn]

Cap and JJ, Both are good looking chassis. I know at least of of Cap's was really fast at the R4.

A pretty ingenious design for the pan movement JJ.

The cut on the front front tube? If it were my car, solder would go there to hold the front axle. A place to put the oil sounds good to me too.

How are things Eric,I BORROWED the pan setup from a Samson flat track chassis. I my spin on it.
I like using the tube because. It allows me to have independent front rotating wheels. One wheel is fixed to the axle while the other is held by a retainer.
Also if i need to change fronts or axles i just pop off the wheel fixed to the axle. Im not putting heat to the rims.
If I need to jig in a hurry , again no soldering iron needed plus I can incert a long axle that fits the jig.

Cap always has nice rollers

[Cap Henry]

Thanks John, those are actually the first 2 cars I built that I've posted, the others weren't worth showing LOL

Waiting on a new iron, had to borrow one to get those done for R4 LOL

[JerseyJohn]

For home use get an Inland. Not expensive 1000 degree hot. heats 062 plate like butter. What kind of solder are you usinG

[Cap Henry]

I used an Inland 100w Iron with 60/40 solder.

I broke the iron when i tried to change the tip. I left it on high for a day or 2. And when I tried to unscrew the tip, the plastic in the handle broke. OOPS! LOL

I really have no complains with what I use, just have to get a new iron lol

[Bill from NH]

The nice thing about the Inland irons is they only cost about $30. That's much cheaper than the Hakkos & Wellers.

[slotcar1998]

my first crash chassie

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[JerseyJohn]

Hay punk ,was the the one you took me out of the can am race with?

[slotcarone]

Looks like you were listening when I told you the proper way to solder a chassis!!!! Those joints look nice.

[Chewy]

Ohhh Geez!!!

[slotcar1998]

ya i know thanks mike and jeff

no i just built this one jj

[JerseyJohn]

Good Job Probee...Rest well Racing tomorrow....

[slotcar1998]

thanks jj you too see u tmro

[slotcar1998]

my first retro car i built 90% from scratch its a copy of an aero car that mike katz built me but there not exact

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[Marty Stanley]

Rick Bennardo,

First of all, I would like to thank you for having your "Spring Special" on the new Samurai 3.0 chassis plates. Next I would like to thank you for your gracious offer to sheer them to my specifications. Talk about something easy to build, this has got to be as close to "shake and race" as there is.

GRRR is working with ASR-IMS in Longwood, Florida to create a monthly retro racing league. It is going to be a low cost 'introductory' to retro racing as IRRA has it listed in their rules. I wanted to be able to find some kits to suggest to the racers that are looking for something easy to get their feet wet, so I ordered those 2 Samurai 3.0 plates and decided to build them up in a no frills manner for the new racers to see. Here's what came out of it.

When I received the chassis plates, I took one look at the one you had sheered length wise for me. It needed just a quick touch up with a file, but it was what I wanted. When you had first posted your photos of the new Samurai 3.0 plate, I saw the possibility of putting together a chassis for Can-Am / GT-Coupe that was similar to my favorite Formula 1 chassis. When I looked at what I thought would work, I verified that it would, so I started the construction.

Basically it is a plumber style with the front wheels mounted on the plumber pans. With this plate it is very simple to do. Since the front axle uprights are slotted, there is no drilling to do, just mounted some tubing in place to form the plumbere hinge and it's almost automatic.

I'm hoping to get some track time either this weekend or next to do some testing. I'm thinking it should be a very easy chassis to drive as it weighs 59.2 grams and should dress out inthe 109 to 114 gram area, just about perfect for GT-Coupe. It's a 4 inch wheelbase and I'm sure it will be well-behaved on the King track at ASR. I used a set of the rails that Pablo taught me how to build. My Formula 1 chassis uses those rails and the car is just so easy to drive. So I thought I'd give another set a try.

The chassis that you sheered off just behind the nosepiece is just a little bit different. I have been looking at the chassis that the Southern California D3 folks run and have noticed a bit of cultural difference. Since I used to race back in the heydayof slot car racing - the 1960's - I can remember looking forward to getting the latest model car mags so I could see what the likes of Cukras, Morrissey, Stuebe and the like were doing. We were a bit behind those guys back then, so I decided to build a California style car.

In the above photo it weighs 48.2 grams. I'm going to give it a try just to see if it will work. Heck, I've been surprised before, so it it does not work, I'll just rebuild it. That's the nice thing about scratchbuilts, you can unsolder them and reconfigure them quite easily.

Thanks for a super product.

[Rick]

You are welcome Marty. You did a nice job on building the sheared Samurai 3.0 plates into racers. With the season coming to a close, I figured this is the time to build build build , ergo the Spring Special Price on the plates. We'll all be waiting to hear how the track tests goes on two different types of construction. Nice camera shots, I might add................

[team burrito]

Last month, I was talking to Jim Fowler about proposing a 1/32 Retro Pro class with either a JK Hawk or S7 Mini-Brute motor. Jim liked the idea & suggested we each build one for the guys to try out at Fast Track. Well, I didn't get mine done in time, but I thought I would share my idea here.



The idea was to make a simple chassis from brass stock without the wire frame. The center section is 1" wide & the pans are 3/4" wide, making the chassis 2-1/2" wide.



The hardest part was making the gear side upright; I had go under the axle tube because of the motor angle.



The JK Hawk just fits in between the uprights. The nice thing about this design is the motor free to mount at any angle.



The bottom view shows a clean look without a lot of work. Stay tuned for a test report. Later.

[Gus Kelley]

Hey Russ! Nice Job! Ilook forward to seeing it at Franks place. Gus in Sacto