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#801 Tex

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Posted 24 October 2011 - 06:19 PM

My brain don't see it, Ray; sorry. I guess I'll have to hold it in my hands to see better. I've seen a "z-bend" tool in the RC area of a local hobby shop... is that the tool you referred to?
Richard L. Hofer

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#802 TNdragracer

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Posted 24 October 2011 - 07:34 PM

Hey RL, I've got a couple of those benders if you'd like to experiment with them. If you want, I'll bring'em down to All Scale and you can borrow them for a bit and see what you can come up with.
Chuck Williams

#803 Tex

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Posted 24 October 2011 - 07:52 PM

Sounds like a deal, Chuck; thanks!
Richard L. Hofer

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#804 TNdragracer

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Posted 24 October 2011 - 08:03 PM

No problem, only thing is.....if you come up with then wowie zowie go fast chassis, you gotta buiild me one too! :D
Chuck Williams

#805 MantaRay

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Posted 25 October 2011 - 02:43 AM

Yes Tex, enjoy chucks Tool,......lol
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#806 Tex

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Posted 25 October 2011 - 05:52 AM

Yes Tex, enjoy chucks Tool,......lol



Jealousy rears it's ugly head. :shok:



Just messin' with ya, Ray! :D
Richard L. Hofer

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#807 MantaRay

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Posted 25 October 2011 - 02:46 PM

Here is a pic/s of the bend the "Tool" MakesPosted Image
DSC03771.JPG

DSC03772.JPG
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#808 MSwiss

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Posted 25 October 2011 - 03:16 PM

Uh oh.
Podium Ray is opening up his vault of building secrets. LOL

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#809 Guillermo Suar

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Posted 25 October 2011 - 05:18 PM

Ray, is this what you are using?

Posted Image

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#810 Tex

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Posted 25 October 2011 - 06:21 PM

Thanks for the pic, Ray. Nice tool.(uh, I think?)
Richard L. Hofer

Remember, two wrongs don't make a right... but three lefts do! Only you're a block over and a block behind.

#811 TNdragracer

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Posted 25 October 2011 - 10:12 PM

Yes Tex, enjoy chucks Tool,......lol


Yikes.......uh yeah uh.....Tex......come to think of it.....I think I'll keep my tool to myself......:blink:
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#812 MantaRay

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Posted 26 October 2011 - 09:16 AM

This is the "Tool"
DSC03776.JPG
DSC03777.JPG



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#813 MantaRay

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Posted 26 October 2011 - 09:22 AM

Here is a new "Twist" on the Z-Rail design
.062 Z-Rails Front and Rear Downstops the same
Fully braced Brack Agra used
Flush .055 downstops on outside rear of pan
.062 upstops in "U" channel toward inside

DSC03774.JPG

DSC03775.JPG
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#814 tonyp

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Posted 26 October 2011 - 11:04 AM

Z bender is one of my favorite tools.

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#815 YetiSRP

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Posted 27 October 2011 - 09:34 AM

Finally got around to finishing up an idea I had. It's now a prototype/pre-production model. Going to test it as soon as the home situation allows me the time. Once I (or someone else I'll get to test it) is happy with it, I'll post in the Parts Counter section and 'pay the man'!

Pretty straight forward. 4" x 1". Front end parts are .040", 1/2 - 3/4 hard brass. .063" rails. Motor bracket is a stock REH---when I saw the P/S line of motors aligned with the brackets holes, I didn't do anything further, so if you're using a Falcon...

What I particularly like, if I do say so myself (and I do...) is the alternative pan stops that eliminates a cross piece et al.

Got enough pieces/parts being readied to do 20-24 run although at least 3 are spoken for/assigned (You looking, Matt! LOL).

I'll post pricing info when it goes down to the Parts section. Trying to get a feel for it.

Attached Images

  • RR-I1.jpg

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Jim Bandes

#816 One_Track_Mind

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Posted 27 October 2011 - 10:28 AM

Hmmmm?
Sorry don't understand how a P/S motor will bolt into this bracket and a F7 motor won't as the sideways bolts patterns are the same dimensions.
From my experience is these REH brackets need extra drilled holes.

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#817 Bill from NH

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Posted 27 October 2011 - 12:01 PM

Those horizontal holes in the REH brackets fit the small Hemi cans like what Pactra, Testor, & others used. :)
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#818 Cap Henry

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Posted 27 October 2011 - 12:08 PM

Brian, you can use the vertical holes, though you have to be careful not to strip them.
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#819 MantaRay

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Posted 27 October 2011 - 12:22 PM

Cap is correct. They are not tapped in the P/S motors. I suggest the use of a Retro Specific Bracket for production use.............Drilling those holes ACCURATELY is not easy after the chassis is built. A bit easier when working on just the bracket. IMO of course
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#820 One_Track_Mind

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Posted 27 October 2011 - 12:45 PM

Oh! Ok, thanks for that bit of info Cap

Sorry, Jim
Great looking chassis! :)

Still agree with Ray and use a 'retro specific' motor bracket.

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#821 Cap Henry

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Posted 27 October 2011 - 05:54 PM

A easier solution is to just slot from the horizontal screw hole to can bearing hole on the bracket. The motor cant really move once tight....

#822 Rick

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Posted 27 October 2011 - 06:25 PM

Couldn't you just cut the back off of an old Falcon motor and use it for a drill guide? ;)
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#823 One_Track_Mind

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Posted 27 October 2011 - 06:44 PM

The motor cant really move once tight....

The face of the bracket can flex, and "thatsa' not Good" IMO.
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#824 YetiSRP

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Posted 27 October 2011 - 07:05 PM

I had actually considered making a drilling jig like Rick said but, instead, was going to do what Cap suggested.

As for flexing, the photo doesn't show the .063" brass strip soldered to the base of the bracket from side to side. That 'face' ain't going anywhere.

Too bad I can't go to MMW this Saturday.

Or anywhere for that matter.
Jim Bandes

#825 Duffy

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Posted 27 October 2011 - 07:18 PM

For the rest of us builders here as well--I've been paying a lot more attention to the motor/ bracket face lately; stoning the bracket flat before jigging-up, torquing the motor down under power and listening for changes in RPM that indicate a bind, & especially using 2mm machine screws (thanks Jay Kisling for that heads-up!).

While slotting or routing-out of mismatched holes is good in these applications, we still should pay close attention to all those slops & non-slops in this area.

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