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#951 HarV Wallbanger III

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Posted 22 April 2012 - 09:45 PM

I want one TOO!
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#952 Tex

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Posted 22 April 2012 - 09:47 PM

Nice lookin' chassis, Craig; I'm takin' notes.
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#953 Craig

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Posted 23 April 2012 - 09:44 AM

Nice lookin' chassis, Craig; I'm takin' notes.


Thanks Tex, no need to take notes.....If you ever want a drawing of any of my builds, they are available.
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#954 Craig

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Posted 26 April 2012 - 12:42 AM

Sorry for the poor picture quality but here is my track finally up and running. It is a single lane, 17.5' lap length with copper tape running a 12V power supply. Last night on a green track I was running 3.2 second lap times. After rubbering it up this evening I got those times down to 2.15 and I believe they may drop even more once the track is completely seasoned.



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#955 Tex

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Posted 26 April 2012 - 09:34 PM

Having your own test track is so cool! WTG, Craig!
Richard L. Hofer

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#956 Craig

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Posted 29 April 2012 - 01:09 PM

It's getting closer to completion. I've installed the walls, Controller posts, some stripping and sponsor logos. Now all that is left are the slop cans (out houses) and the announcers tower.

slop track 2.jpg

slop track.jpg
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#957 usadar

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Posted 30 April 2012 - 06:43 AM

Hi, Craig,
Beautiful 1/32 builds & test track!!
This is what is going on in Tokyo for the coming Retro Palooza at Port Jefferson in NY, my first racing in the East.
Kamosita(Kamo)-san is building a couple of Can-Am chassis for me, one of which is this.

Our first test to use a very wide(1 3/8 inch) motor-bracket prepared by Nob Hanada as an experiment. It is made of .047 inch thick brass plate.
Ti22R painted with Hanada brackets & rails.jpg

The center-section of the chassis.
Kamo-Speed 4.28.2012.JPG

The complete chassis.
Kamo-Speed IRRA.JPG

IRRA has the 100g minimum weight requirement for Can-Am, so we have made the chassis a little bit heavier than usual(for D3). Kamo-san told me he would reduce some weight from the chassis, if necessary.

Kamo-san is building another chassis with a narrow(3/4 inch wide) motor-bracket and narrower main-rails, similar one to his Kamo-Speed D3 Can-Am chassis.

I hope I will be able to build one by myself for the race in NY.

Stay tuned & keep racing,

Haruki
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#958 usadar

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Posted 30 April 2012 - 07:19 AM

Kamo-san has just sent me the picture of the finished Kamo-Speed IRRA Can-Am chassis.

The main-rails are 4 x .062 wires instead of .055 for the D3 lighter version.
With the rear axle tube and the pans a little thicker and bigger than those for D3, the complete car would be 100g instead of 90g of the D3 version.

Kamo-san has put a BRP threaded front axle from Chicagoland Raceway.
Kamo-Speed IRRA.JPG

The below is Kamo-Speed D3 Can-Am chassis:
Kamo-Speed Chassi #3, 2012 March.jpg

Good Racing,

Haruki
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#959 Howie Ursaner

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Posted 07 May 2012 - 04:36 PM

Here is my Retrosport chassis. it is a tribute to the Horky eurosport 2010.

horky retro T.jpg



horky retro B.jpg



how 1 pan.jpg



How 1 top.jpg
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#960 MantaRay

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Posted 07 May 2012 - 05:41 PM

Nice Job Howie................Looks like you finally threw away the Weller Gun...LoL
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#961 Tex

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Posted 07 May 2012 - 05:42 PM

Cool design.
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#962 Hipsticker

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Posted 07 May 2012 - 06:11 PM

howie let us all look at it last year at speedzone..the way it moves within itself is a marvel..theres a ton of thinkin went into it ..you cant appreciate it till you actually move the car around in your hands and watch the actions ..it is amazing more than pics can show...this "may" not be the exact one he had there but the actions within are the same i believe..
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#963 Howie Ursaner

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Posted 07 May 2012 - 06:24 PM

Same one Hip. Thanks
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#964 Preston M

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Posted 18 May 2012 - 01:56 PM

Posted Image

4 rails of .055
shaker pans
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#965 JerseyJohn

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Posted 18 May 2012 - 05:49 PM

Howie let us all look at it last year at speedzone..the way it moves within itself is a marvel..theres a ton of thinking went into it ..you cant appreciate it till you actually move the car around in your hands and watch the actions ..it is amazing more than pics can show...this "may" not be the exact one he had there but the actions within are the same i believe..

I was also fortunate to handle Howie's Chassis. A true study in physics. Awesome work Howie..
 

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#966 Rick

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Posted 18 May 2012 - 11:45 PM

Nice job Preston, looks good..................

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#967 Preston M

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Posted 20 May 2012 - 11:25 AM

Nice job Preston, looks good..................


thanks rick. the car weighs in at 112.1g. A little too much. i would like to be at around 105. Any suggestions for lightening it up?
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#968 Rick

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Posted 20 May 2012 - 11:31 AM

I don't see the real need for the double bite bars, take one(solid one) off and clean up as much excess solder as possible. The .055 rails will add a couple of grams vs .047 but 110 is a good race weight.

I don't use tubes for rear axle, just bearings right into the bracket. A little carving on the bracket too, that looks like the older tall one? These changes should pick up 6 grams.......................

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#969 Lucky Me

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Posted 20 May 2012 - 11:34 AM

thanks rick. the car weighs in at 112.1g. A little too much. i would like to be at around 105. Any suggestions for lightening it up?


Preston,

Nice build, as far as the weight goe's someone once told me as long as the car Goe's around it doesn't matter what it weigh's.
This is very true. If it work's don't worry about it. Car's that are "skinny" are usually harder to drive.

Check out some of the weight's of the podium car's from various different event's, I think you will be suprised as to what you see.
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#970 Rick

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Posted 20 May 2012 - 11:39 AM

Preston, what Maynard says is quite true. Run it as is first. we have been putting 2 grams(each side) right in the center of pans on our Samurai 4.0's for most tracks. Of course Speed Zones King you'll have to try both ways..............

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#971 Preston M

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Posted 20 May 2012 - 11:42 AM

Preston,

Nice build, as far as the weight goe's someone once told me as long as the car Goe's around it doesn't matter what it weigh's.
This is very true. If it work's don't worry about it. Car's that are "skinny" are usually harder to drive.

Check out some of the weight's of the podium car's from various different event's, I think you will be suprised as to what you see.

Thanks Rick. The car does handle exceptionally well at Port Jeff. But, it turns 4.2s, and i want to be at least 4.0. I think the weight will help free the car up in the donut.

I don't see the real need for the double bite bars, take one(solid one) off and clean up as much excess solder as possible. The .055 rails will add a couple of grams vs .047 but 110 is a good race weight.

I don't use tubes for rear axle, just bearings right into the bracket. A little carving on the bracket too, that looks like the older tall one? These changes should pick up 6 grams.......................

The bracket is indeed from the samurai 3 kit. if i remove weight from the rear and not the front will it effect handling?
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#972 Rick

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Posted 20 May 2012 - 12:16 PM

Preston, I don't think it will hurt at Port Jeff. If you mean 4.2's as race laps, that's not bad at all. You can also try other bodies to find the tenths you are looking for. I found the TI too stuck at Mimis. Trim spoilier height until you lose handling and back up to last good length. I'm pretty certain you are Thunder or Wonder already? I did notice the real fast guys had cut their tires down too, I ran full boats.

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#973 Preston M

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Posted 20 May 2012 - 05:03 PM

Rick,


These are practice laps. A good motor will give me a tenth or so, and i might have to narrow the tires. Good call.


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#974 Preston M

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Posted 07 June 2012 - 10:42 AM

Posted Image

4 rails of .055
shaker pans

turns out this car is AWESOME on a hillclimb. It has a lot of pan movement, so when i switched over to the king at RP3, i tack soldered the pans to the pan stops, and added two solder joints on the outer rails. It became a missile.
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#975 Rick

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Posted 07 June 2012 - 02:19 PM

WTG Preston!! The fine tuning thing is something that has to be done to get the most out of your chassis and you guys did a great job doing that part. Congratulations on your WIN in GT/FK. Tight seems to be better on the super speedways. One real easy trick to tighten them up quickly for a comparison is to slide a piece of .031 wire thru the bite bar and tape in place, then another if you want it very tight.................

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