3139 replies to this topic

[Tex]

While your number of individual rails/wires don't compare to Rick Moore's, the intricacy of the connections DO. I can't "see" what it's doing; I'd have to hold it. Maybe you could whip out a color-coded autocad of it........

I feel like a Neanderthal when I compare my builds to yours.

[Preston M]

Can't. Stop. Building.





18 rails of .032".
Shaker pans.
3.875" wheelbase
1 inch guide lead.

[Dominator]

Put the iron down before you hurt yourself LOL! Another great build Preston keep'em coming.

[ejgehrken]

Great work Preston!, What track do you plan to run this on?

[Preston M]

Plan is build all I can build bring it all over to speedzone and race what works the best, lol.

[ejgehrken]

I'm on a similar plan, gonna build a few of my own non-kit chassises, 2 X-25R's, and a Dragon Slayer 3 along with 2 Samson chassises and see what runs best.

[ejgehrken]

Here is a Can-Am/Coupe chassis I built.

It has a wheelbase of 3.875", guide lead of 0.875", and uses four rails of 0.055" wire (two on each side). The chassis uses a Hanada motor bracket.

It weighs in at 52.5 grams.

[Tex]

Good job, Eric; nice lookin' chassis.

[blkdout76]

Here is a Can-Am/Coupe Chassis I built

It has a wheelbase of 3.875", guide lead of 0.875", and uses 4 rails of 0.055" wire (2 on each side). The chassis uses a Hanada Motor Bracket.

It weighs in at 52.5 grams.

3d racing in the house and at Fall Brawl. Nice job eric your chassis' are looking better and better with every build.

[Cap Henry]

2 New Builds for the Fall Brawl

CHR Cars #047
4" WB, 1" GL
R-Geo Guide Tongue, JK Bracket
.062 Main Rails
.062 Pans
This one goes to my good buddy Mike Muir



CHR Cars #048
4" WB
JK Kit with 3/4" JK Bracket
Shaker Pans
8 Rails of .047
Was trying to have a "basic" car to be able to get a base line with.

[Mike Wurn]

Hey Duffy,

Beautiful wire work on the chassis in post 1149. I love the pillow blocks, even the wire wraps around the front axle are artistic! My only question, how do you add lead to get it up to weight?

[Rick Moore]

Mike, you probably got confused since Duff-man's build for George is a Retro-Pro, but an in-line instead of an anglewinder. Hence, the "minimum weight" is what it is (no adjunct lead needed). Pretty cool.

And, a quick "thanks" from me to all the guys (besides Herr Duff, like Preston, Cap, Eric and all the others; I wish more would do so) who take the time and effort to share their scratchbuilds with the rest of us (here and elsewhere). Much appreciated! (Hey Tex! Haven't seen anything from you in a while, or are you on hiatus too? I can't wait for the semester break...)

CMF3

[Preston M]

This build is my take on the "speed" chassis.

3.875" wheel base.

.063" rails.





And I changed the pan movements on this one. Before it simply had way too much shake, so I kind of came up with this off the top of my head. The bite bar floats through the center pan. The center pan has a .032" "spring" to keep it centered.

[Tex]

(Hey Tex! Haven't seen anything from you in a while, or are you on hiatus too? I can't wait for the semester break...)CMF3

Just for you, Rick.Preparations for this past Summer's SWC at BP in July was so all-consuming for so long, once it was over and done I let go of all except what must absolutely be done. Of course, I just HAD to build this chassis so I could have something to campaign on non-King tracks. It's a Z-rail/VSWT combo, using 3 rails of .055 wire. It is SO flexible as to twist in the wind at the slightest breeze. Good? Bad? Whatever, it's what I wanted to build. I've run into a peculiar phenomenon when building my version of VSWT chassis'... if/when I tighten down the front set screws(to make the chassis stiffer), the chassis "deforms" and no longer sits flat on the block. I have an idea what's going on but haven't gotten around to building anything since in order to tell if my hunch is right. This chassis is NOT built to take much of a hit. As usual, it has "oddities" that no one else in their right mind would do. I wanted this chassis to have floppy pans that were totally independent of body mounting paraphanalia. The pans are actually recessed x-thousandths from the body-mounting pin tubes so that the pans can wiggle to their hearts delight without interference from the body. Good? Bad? Oh, come on... you know me by now... it's what I wanted to do. Implementing this odd arrangement, however, led to some "creative" body mounting. I had to solder on piano wire "struts" up front just to hold the pin tubes. Weird, huh? It is what it is... another mishmash of painting myself in a corner from one solder joint to the next; I NEVER know what the finished product is going to be. I should mention it sports one of Duffy's famous FIRECROTCH motor brackets!

[Preston M]

Never know if its gunna work till its tried right? Cool build tex, who knows you may have just started a new trend.

[Preston M]

And Rick, I post in hopes of criticism!!

[Tex]

What I've discovered, Preston, is that it doesn't really matter what I build; I'm no faster than with any other scratchbuilt chassis of my own. I'm generally about .3 - .5 seconds slower than the fastest guys in Texas. None of my chassis' have ever been as fast as a JK kit.... honest truth. But I gotta build my OWN chassis'. I don't want to buy success; I want to BUILD it... myself.

[Preston M]

I am beginning to become the same way. I have 3 cars built by someone else. I know these cara are going to work, but when I build cars that work as well as them I run mine. It's very satisfying when people ask who built that car and seeing the look on their faces when I say I did. They may not be the prettiest, but so far they have all worked pretty damn well, and I can't be happier with my chassis program going into the fall brawl. Motors are another story though!!

[Duffy]

Some very cool stuf going on here. Pres, some guys are currently talking about how the center-mass concept is well worth exploring. Play with it.

Ohhhhhhhh Tex...yah, when you screw down something, something's gonna get stressed. Don't give up on the idea, but figure out what's pushing on what where, & think about how to get that to do what you want without thhe collateral damage. You are developing a regimen of VSWT here, and the final iteration will not spring out full-grown and entire like some Hindu deity, it'll grow.

Per Geo. Blaha's RetroPro chassis in post #1149 (and, by the way: the "wire wraps" on the front axle aren't wire, they're two bits of strapping tape! This was the "Vanity shot," and the axle hadn't been assembled w/ tyres and set at height yet) - George dressed it up and gave it a shakedown run...and, with the wrong gearing and not a lot of tyre-testing time, he was very happy witth how it ran. A couple more sessions before next weekend, and it's going to the Fall Brawl.

duf

[Rick Moore]

Hey Preston, don’t expect any outright “criticism” from me. (Okay, I can’t resist an annoying poke at der rulez-makerz on occasion, albeit pointless…) I simply appreciate anyone who takes the time to post up what scratchbuilding they’re up to. I like seeing what others create using solder, wire and pliers… What? Wire benders and jigs? What a bunch of lazy bas***ds… (How’s that for “criticism”…) But just for clarification purposes (my apologies if this was posted elsewhere), on the second chassis above, are the main rails 9x 0.032” wire per side?

Nope, no criticism here… Unless we’re talking about Tex… The only thing that troubles me about that guy and his builds is that I can usually understand what he’s up to, as convoluted as that thought (or lack thereof) process might be!!! He seems to have a maniacal death-grip on the notion of “Gee, I wonder if I can build a chassis that…” Oh, oops, I forgot he’s probably reading this…

Okay Tex, let me see if I’m seeing things correctly. We’re talking 6-pin body mount technology here. The front and rear pin-tubes are solid mounted to the chassis, but because of the indirect main rails still act somewhat independent; and the middle pin-tubes are also solid mounted to the front wing assembly, along with the front pin-tubes, but suspended on wires. Right? You’ve gotta let me know how that one works, especially if you try different body pinning combinations. And, yes, the screw adjustment can deflect a chassis component, but this can be somewhat neutralized using spring wires to or from other chassis components. The technical term for this is “superstructural weirdness” (known by some as “S-weird”). I’ve done the suspended brass pans separate from the chassis and body framing before, but that’s all I’m going to say; I’ll be curious to hear your own observations in this regard.

And what’s all that gold-ish colored stuff???

CMF3

[Duffy]

And what’s all that gold-ish colored stuff???

Dynamic damping.

[Preston M]

Rick,

Yes there are 9 rails of .032 on each side

[Tex]

And what’s all that gold-ish colored stuff???

???

Brass?

[Preston M]

So, my speed chassis comes in at 97 grams. Oops! What Cali racer wants it lol.

[Mike Wurn]

I understand now, and yes I'm confused...

This was supposed to include a quote from previous post but I screwed up.