134 replies to this topic

[Pablo]

Been eyeballing this little 1967 STP Indy Turbine Car body sitting alongside Billy Watson's track for a long time.

 

Today I took it home and gave it a toothbrush/liquid soap cleaning.

She cleaned up real nice

 

 

Is it a 1/32, or a 1/43? Who made it? Where did it come from? Who knows?

 

 

I'm going to build it up

[slotbaker]

Nice looking body.

Looks like its got a 3" wheelbase, so if someone knows what the 1:1 car's wheelbase is, we could work out the scale.

 

Gunna make it 4wd??

 

[Bill from NH]

The body has great details. from the slight discoloring, it's probably butyrate.  The wheelbase would indicate it's 1/32, too big for 1/43. too small for 1/24. I wonder if it came from a lesser known company, such as Shark? But I don't know for sure. Ask PDL, he'll have the answers.

[Steve Okeefe]

It's most likely a 1/32 scale Lancer #358:

 

 

The prototype had a 96.2" wheelbase, so in 1/32 scale 3 inches is spot-on...

 

On the other hand... the prototype also was just a nudge more than 6 feet over the outside edges of the tires, so if you're going to build this in something close to actual 1/32 scale, the overall width shouldn't be much more than 2-1/4" or so.  Good luck 

 

Who let those pesky scale guys in here anyway? 

[dc-65x]

Hi Pablo,

 

Here's a vintage build of the famous racer. the body builds up into a really nice car. This one uses a pan chassis and a guide pin no less   

 

 

 

Indycals has 1/32 decals if you like that look:

 

http://www.indycals..../67turbine.html

 

 

Let me know if you need anything and I'll help if I've got it.

 

[Pablo]

Thanks gentlemen

Gotta order those decals right now....

[dc-65x]

Testors has #1175 Red Fluorescent color you might like:

 

 

[Pablo]

Decals on order. Now I'll put the body in a window sill to see if it clears up the yellowing a little.

As slow as I build, it may again be "Crystal Clear" by the time I'm ready to paint

Seriously, I think it will be fine even if it doesn't help. But it can't hurt.

[CoastalAngler1]

Nice stuff Pablo!  That one is cool for an indy - Soak it in bleach overnight yet?  Then dawn soap and some elbow grease with a terry cloth.  

[mike1972chev]

I have had pretty good luck by soaking my old bodies in hydrogen peroxide.

[Pablo]

Guys, don't hold your breath waiting for me to start using chemicals in an attempt to remove natural yellowing.

It will come out looking absolutely fine once painted, with or without the yellowing.

[Pablo]

Starting to gather parts, and I'll just throw this out there for your perusal before I begin

 

Inline chassis

WB 3"

GL TBD

Wheel widths 2 1/2"

Rear wheel width 1/2"

 

FK motor, exact type TBD

Castleton bracket

WRP tongue (trimmed, of course)

.315" OD magnesium hubs with donuts, OD TBD

3/32 axles

 

 

Your opinion is valued

[old & gray]

For the motor have an "improved" by Havlicek FK.

 

After all the original car had so much power they used 4 wheel drive to get it to the ground.

[Pablo]

That actually crossed my mind. Thanks, Bob, but I do not concur.

Overpowering this little car would be a mistake.

It needs to be driveable. I've considered a Cheetah II or a Mini-Brute.

 

I can decide that later. Right now, I simply propose an FK jig motor.

The owner can decide how much power he needs.

[Bill from NH]

I think this car should have a "Pablo-wound" arm. Have you wound any since you built Brian's  Eagle for the then Eastlake Orange?

 

The brass guide tongue looks like a WRP item from CA. Does ARP sell them too? John Kallas used them on his BPR retros. These tongues have been around for over ten years. I got a couple locally from GTPJoe.

[Pablo]

Thanks Bill, I stand corrected, the tongue is a WRP

[Pappy]

I thought the tongue was a REHCo

[Pablo]

https://e-slotcar.co...unge-wrp-rw-01/

[SlotStox#53]

That turbine 32nd shell is just beautiful

Should be a fun build and plenty of fun on the track. Drop arm? Iso?

[don.siegel]

Excellent project Pablo, and an exciting car. Definitely a Lancer body, as Steve says. 

 

Here's one I restored a couple years ago for an Indy race in Bordo... not only is this a replica of a period magazine car, I'm pretty sure it's the magazine car itself! That's the original body, detailed in the 60s, and a Champion 5001 driving out of both sides, for real 4WD (probably not the best idea, given my race results!). I didn't have the original Riggen wheels/tires, unfortunately, so used what I had... 

 

Very tight under the nose: what are you going to use as a guide? 

 

Don 

 

 

 

 

[Pablo]

Paul, probably 3/32 axle in a tube, connected to flexi torsion rails, a la '34 Ford, etc.

Every car I've built using that method of controlling front wheels has worked great.

No ISO, no drop arm - not enough room.

My theory for little cars is, keep 'em simple, don't over-power 'em, and make the wheel tracks WIDE

 

Cool car, Don. I haven't yet dug into my flag bag of horrors, but I'll bet there is something perfect in there very small

[Pablo]

Day of change. Motor is starting to look like a 13uo instead of an FK, so I found a bracket for it.

Don, I did find some good flag choices

All four wheels have changed from .318" OD Mag rims to JK .470 OD plastic, shod with Paul Gage Urethanes, and narrowed.

[Pablo]

 

[Samiam]

Gotta' get me a pair of those STP slacks.   

[Ecurie Martini]

Guide: If you can find one, Sakatsu made a very small trailing guide (pivot at the front). Mine came years ago from Patto in AU but his site no longer lists them. I have never found anything better, other than a pin guide, for tight spaces.

 

EM