3573 replies to this topic

[Mr. Frank]

YEA.... But do you know where they can be found???? Have people looking for them too...

Mr. Frank

[havlicek]

Hi Frank...Scott at PCH has them and last time I checked I think Roger at Mid America did...I think that's where I got mine. My brain is shot, so I don't remember for sure

-john

[Mr. Frank]

COOL.... I'll check them out... Thanks

Frank

[Victor Poulin]

Oh sure John, I have one !! DUH !!! I just didnt know what it was called lol. Yes I use it all the time, in fact I use it on every arm I install to face each end before install. Yes I had thought about using it to cut the tail, and prob will wind up doing just that.

I got mine from Scott at PCH I cant recall what I paid, but I know it wasn't cheep. But then again, can you really put a price on having this much fun?


Vic

[Victor Poulin]

John,
I had a chance to take gauss readings on the magnets this afternoon. The stock Hawk mags were very close at 845 and 851
That was after giving them a zap.
Now heres the funny part. The new Neos were 955 and 952 almost a perfect matched set!! I took readings several times to be sure, and the numbers stayed the same each time. I was a little supprised that the difference was only around 100 more than the stock mags.

Not that it's bad, I just expected them to be alot higher. Well anyways, I got the motor all together tonight. I wound up using a Proslot C-can endbell cut down to fit the Hawk can. The reason I used that insted of the Hawk endbell is because the Proslot was just a tad longer and allowed just enough room for me to fit the Hornet arm in there. I took your advice and cut down the tail shaft, but it still made for a tight fit . I used roller bearings / can and endbell, Koford SBF-II brushes and Champion light springs.

I;m pretty happy with it all and all. It sounds great on the power supply and pulls around 2.2 amps @6volts
I took some pics as I went along through the process. I,ll get them downloaded and resized so I can post them.

Vic

[havlicek]

Hi Vic,

That's still more than a 10% difference in magnet strength...nothing to sneeze at (unless you got a cold!) Also, they're being that close is another help and no doubt that setup should run better than with the ceramics.

-john

[Victor Poulin]

Hi Vic,

That's still more than a 10% difference in magnet strength...nothing to sneeze at (unless you got a cold!) Also, they're being that close is another help and no doubt that setup should run better than with the ceramics.

-john

Oh I agree 100% john, and the thing is with these Neos , the price is only $7.95 per set. And to get that close of a match was an added plus. I plan to order up a few more sets because I can also use them in pretty much any C-can set up.

I'd also like to toy around with Neos in a Proslot or Parma rotor D- can set up at some point.

Vic

[havlicek]

Oh I agree 100% john, and the thing is with these Neos , the price is only $7.95 per set. And to get that close of a match was an added plus. I plan to order up a few more sets because I can also use them in pretty much any C-can set up.

I'd also like to toy around with Neos in a Proslot or Parma rotor D- can set up at some point.

Vic

Yep...the price is fine Vic and they should make a nice upgrade. You know, if you get really really creative with this stuff, there are lots of oddball modern motors out there with all kinds of parts for use with slot cars. I have some here in various sizes that are at or near slot car motor size. For instance, I've got some motors that are about FT26D size with ceramic magnets that read over 1100 on my meter without zapping. That's way beyond Arcos and you can do some pretty neat stuff with them (keeping in mind that the endbell is really the limiting factor on the old Mabuchis). There are endbells, cans, armatures all kinds of crazy stuff. Then there's some RC stuff that could be useful too

On the D-motors, the magnets in those are generally pretty darned strong as it is and just an arm swap will get a LOT more out of them (with maybe some magnet shimming). Thing is, they're so big and heavy (at least compared to other modern motors) that they really seem most useful as a spec motor. Of course, the modern D-motor magnets will pretty much pop right into old Mabuchi FT16D setups for a nice bump in horsepower. The early Mura endbell (with the hardware similar to the pentroof Mabuchi stuff) is also a nice fit and between the two, you can really bump the old Mabuchis. LOTS of potential for screwing around out there.

-john

[Victor Poulin]

Oh I know John,
I haven't gotten to that point yet, but you can bet I will lol.

Hears some pics of the reworked Hawk as I went along.

First one is the stock Hawk can after striping it out



Next is the same can after trimming off the ears, and installing roller bearings



Here you can see the difference between the new Neo mags and the stock



Next is getting the new Hornet arm tail shaft cut down to fit the set up



I went with a Proslot C-can endbell that I cut down to fit the Hawk can. In this pic you can see the difference between the stock endbell, and the one I cut to fit. The reason I went with the Proslot instead of the stock Hawk endbell was because the Proslot gave me just a tad more room to accept the longer arm. In fact, just enough!



And heres the finished product after adding Koford SBF-II brushes and Champion light springs.





I'm very pleased with how it turned out. It sounds potent on the power supply and after about a 20min breakin, it stayed nice and cool. Oh, I forgot to add, that I also used roller bearings in the endbell on this one. I had alot of fun on this one, and all and all, it runs even better than I had hoped.

Vic

[havlicek]

Nice work Vic...looks like a potent little sonofagun. You mention "roller bearings" above...are these the ones that were around in the 60's? We used to call them "needle bearings"and I only ever saw them for axles...1/8". The ones in your picture look like regular ball bearings, but it's hard to tell in such a small picture. Anyway, the motor should be a screamer!

-john

[Victor Poulin]

Thanks John,
The pictures really dont do it justice, as they didnt come out very well. I had to resize them to upload them on here.
The bearings are ball bearings. I dont know why I call them roller bearings lol, just a bad habbit I guess Their 2x6mm in the can, and 2x5mm in the endbell. I remember the needle bearings your talking about, but I cant recall what I remember seeing them in.

I prob should have posted this under motor building, but where we had been talking about it, I thought I'd go ahead a post it here. I didnt mean to highjack your thread.

I wanted to ask you John, when you post your pics on here, do you have to resize them? and if so, do you by any chance remember what size you use? I use photobuckett to resize mine, but they always come out to small. I know you can choose the size, but I never know what size to choose

Vic

[havlicek]

Hi Vic,

10-4 on the bearings. For some reason, I seem to remember those needle bearings being a Cox or a Classic item...but that's probably wrongamundo. They were the "cool" thing for a while back then and seemed to be more "solid" or something. I always resize pictures to 700 pixels in the largest dimension as I think that's what Greg has asked for. Besides, any larger than that and you have to scroll to see an entire picture!

Speaking of pictures, I finished off an alternate FT26D motor for the Dynamic Proxy. Regular "BB" can and Champion endbell with Arcos in the can. This one is a #29awg done on a mystery blank with thin legs, a Mura commutator and it's pretty well "overwound". The motor runs very smooth, stays cool, draws about 1 amp and is very difficult to stop with your finger even at low voltage...but it still revs way higher than a stock 26D. If I use it, I have confidence it will run well and last. I'm not sure, because performance seems close to the Champion 26D that's in my Proxy car. This one may have a slight weight advantage since the Chrome Champion cans are very heavy.



-john

[Alchemist]

Real nice Vic!!

I can't see it, but do you solder the bearing onto the can from the inside or outside of the can please? Does it matter?

kinda of like a "big block" motor now - LOL!! Very KOOL Vic!

Hi John,

I can't stop saying how "sweet" your motors are - I'm getting a cavity - LOL!!! I've never seen those type of "tabs" for soldering your wires to - is that stock for this motor or did you make them please?

Thanks for sharing.

Ernie

[Victor Poulin]

Thanks for the info John,
Next time I need to resize my pics I'll try to remember that. That motor is SWEEEEET !! sure the Champ can may be a little heavy but, Its just sooooooo shiny


Ernie thank you,

The bearing is installed from the inside of the can, and soldered on the out side.

[Prof. Fate]

Hi

Dynamic had a roller bearing upgrade for their aluminum chassis which were pretty nice. That might be what you remember.


Fate

[havlicek]

I've never seen those type of "tabs" for soldering your wires to - is that stock for this motor or did you make them please?

If you mean the 26D above Ernie, the endbell hardware is a mix and match...those "tabs" which are part of the hoods are from a 36D. In an endbell-mount situation like that motor, the bottom one and maybe the top one will need to be bent upwards at a 90 degree angle to prevent them from touching the chassis and/or shorting. The greater hood area should provide better heat dissipation...but that motor runs sweet, smooth and cool

Dynamic had a roller bearing upgrade for their aluminum chassis which were pretty nice. That might be what you remember.

Could be...I seem to remember several companies selling those things, but my memory could be faulty.

-john

[Allen00]

I just found this thread a week ago and you really have some nice arms and motor builds. So I thought I would show you what I have been using as 36d replacement arms and magnets.

This is a modern Mabuchi RS-360RH you can find them on ebay for $2 or $3.


Just pry up the 4 tabs on the endbell and lightly tap the arm to open it up.



You get a short stack .7ohm 36d arm with a modern com that drops right in to a vintage setup.
The arms not epoxied so you can rewind it. Or Tie,Epoxy and Balance the arm and use as is.


You also get strong modern magnets. With a little light grinding they drop in a 36d can.
I just use a bench grinder and flatten the ends and epoxy them in.
Original 36d on top RS-360RH on bottom.


Here is a completed motor that I use my Drag car.
It is much faster than a stock motor and is easy to replace an arm.
(and no its not an original 706 motor,its a copy. The collectors made the old champions to expensive to play with. )

[havlicek]

Hi Allen,

Thanks for looking in and I recently mentioned that there are some pretty neat modern motors that can be used for either hot-rodding or just refurbishing the old Mabuchis...so your post is right on IMO. I don't do the eBay thing, but will look around to see if i can get some of those from other sources. Those magnets actually have a profile that's very similar to the Champion Arcos, even though they're taller. Thanks for the information!

-john

[Allen00]

Hi John,
There are quite a few 360 motors. The 360RH has the best wind that I have found so far. Its listed as a 6 volt motor. The magnets are just as strong as Arcos.
Stay away from the 365 series they are all 5 pole arms.

[Victor Poulin]

Hi Allen, Thanks for posting your build, and for the info. I'd like to pick up a couple of those to play around with. Are they usually listed under vintage on ebay? I,ll have to keep a look out to see if I can fine some lol.

Vic

[havlicek]

Aw what the heck, I popped for some of these (just google the part # above Vic). Today was my day to cast all caution to the wind as I got another item that looks very interesting that a blogger told me about. Neither was expensive, but these motors were $1.99...so even I could "afford" a few of them. I'll hold off commenting on the other item until I find out if it actually is what it says it is.

The question I have is...where'd you get that minty "706" foil can sticker from Allen?

-john

[Victor Poulin]

Aw what the heck, I popped for some of these (just google the part # above Vic). Today was my day to cast all caution to the wind as I got another item that looks very interesting that a blogger told me about. Neither was expensive, but these motors were $1.99...so even I could "afford" a few of them. I'll hold off commenting on the other item until I find out if it actually is what it says it is.

The question I have is...where'd you get that minty "706" foil can sticker from Allen?

-john

Thanks for the tip John, I had to laugh at your question to Allen because I was just about to ask the same thing

[Allen00]

I made the decals on my pc. I printed them on clear decal paper and placed it on some chrome vinyl that I had. There not exact copys but there fine for race motors.
I haven't tried it yet but Papilio makes 3mil chrome decal paper that you can print on with an inkjet printer. That would make it simpler.

Here are some files that I made.
If you print them at 300dpi they come out the right size.

[havlicek]

Pretty neat Allen!

-john

[Robert V.]

Hi John

Great work on that 26d my favorite vintage motor

Hi Allen those stickers are awsome i have already saved them to my desk top great work.