3573 replies to this topic

[Victor Poulin]

Happy New Year Robert!

I have never seen a Dyna Can - only heard about them. Thanks for the motor comparison picture. It reminds me of a much bigger "hemi" can due to the endbell color and shiny can! Looks good!

Happy New Year to you too Vic!!!

Ernie

Thanks Ernie, right back at ya I think we're going to have alot of fun on here for 2011 !!

[havlicek]

With a little lull in the action here, I figured I'd post up this pair of #28 winds. Done on Bill Bugenis' stacks and with his coms, these were spaced for a 2-hole Mura setup with plenty of room to center them in the field. These are for a blogger who will be taking care of the stack grinding and balancing on his end. Having only to wind, weld, tie and epoxy...he makes my job way too easy! I Scotchbrite-d the coms just to get thje best reading on the meter as I can and they meter very consistently. I've tried to do a better and better job brazing the coms and I think that helps a lot. These should be solid and reliable arms in those Mura setups...lotsa fun!



-john

[Victor Poulin]

They look great John !!

[havlicek]

Thanks Vic. #28 winds in a nice old Mura setup should make for reliable and fast fun. Hey...I don't HAVE to do roman candles all the time!

-john

[Victor Poulin]

Thanks Vic. Hey...I don't HAVE to do roman candles all the time!

-john

That's true, but it sure makes for alot of fun don't it?

[havlicek]

Sure does Vic

-john

[Alchemist]

But we like roman candles - LOL!!!!!

I like the green copper color combo!!

Ernie

[havlicek]

Hi Ernie...I like 'em too

I like the green copper color combo!!

That's the insulation coating and it will all get ground off.

-john

[havlicek]

I just realized that "Arm Winding" has passed 75,000 views and is closing in on 2,500 replies. To everyone who has contributed...especially those who've joined-in and done real harm like me to motors, this is a great thing. To SlotBlog in particular for hosting all this nonsense (Philippe, Greg etc.), thanks! To those who've looked in but haven't raised a Dremel tool in anger to a motor yet...what are you waiting for?

-john

[Alchemist]

We need to "thank you too" John, for having started the thread and sharing all that you do!! "applause!!"

by the way, can someone direct me - please - to where comments were given regarding "metal shavings removal" from inside the can and on the magnets! I searched and can't seem to find it. I remember Vic saying something about using the air compressor, tape, which I did but still have residue.

Thank you for your time!

Ernie

[Bill from NH]

Ernie, I recall the topic coming up but couldn't begin to tell you where to find it. I'd use a bit of tire dressing on a clean rag & wipe down the magnets with it. Then I'd wash off the residue with lighter fluid, naptha, denatured alcohol, or something similar.

[havlicek]

Hi Ernie,

I use small pieces of tape wadded-up with the sticky side out and force it around in there. After a few pieces, I can get it clean without too much effort. This wouldn't be very effective for a lot of magnet dust if you were honing the magnets, but for some shavings that get picked up it works fine.

-john

[zipper]

Always used Blu-Tack - the older (soaked with oil) the better...
http://www.blutack.c...-blue-tack.html

[wbugenis]

[quote name='havlicek' timestamp='1292846685' post='303804']


-john
[/quote

They are not only photogenic but they run and run.

http://slotblog.net/...showtopic=27746

Third place, Jan 8 ISRA eurosport at the Race Place

Maybe Lou will have time to post a review.

Bill

[Brad Friesner]

Have the arms in the picture been epoxied?

[wbugenis]

No epoxy. Only wind and weld.

[wbugenis]

We vacuum impregnate the arms in a process similar to this:


http://www.olsun.com/VPI%20Process.pdf

[RomanK]

by the way, can someone direct me - please - to where comments were given regarding "metal shavings removal" from inside the can and on the magnets! I searched and can't seem to find it. I remember Vic saying something about using the air compressor, tape, which I did but still have residue.

try a product called "Permagum" works great, sold in 1 lb. package and that should last you oh about 60 years or so. Very pliable and sticky. You can stuff it down into the set-up, manipulate it around with a small screwdriver and it'll pick up everything it touches. I have a small wad of it that I've used for 210 years now.

[havlicek]

Hey thanks for the update Bill. It's good to know that progress is being made on my end so I can catch up to what you and Lou are doing It's also good to know that the pattern I used on this last batch of arms worked as it was pretty weird. I saw it on an old arm from the 60's when I was stripping it for salvage and thought it might come in handy sometime.

-john

[GearBear]

Ernie,

Go to your local arts supply store and get a kneaded eraser. http://en.wikipedia....Kneaded_eraser. The stuff works great for cleaning out the inside of a motor. It'll grab magnet fragments from broken cobalt magnets, as well as clean all the magnet dust out after honing a set of magnets. I couldn't build a motor without it!

Bill,

That vacuum system is very intriguing. Are saying that the epoxy doesn't start to cure during the vacuum process and only starts to cure in the heating process? Pretty neat way to get all the bubbles out of the epoxy and to get good penetration!

John, If you ever want to go into production winding Eurosport Arms, let me know. I could use a couple!

[Slow1ron@yahooo.com]

John,
Are you ever in need of old burnt armatures of all classes and specs ?
I probably have hundreds I would donate to guy like you.
Your work is outstanding and your attention to detail is superb.

PS: A product called "stickey tack" is what magnet putty is. Any office supply will have it and it lasts for years. It is used to hold paper products to walls and such with no damage and can be reused over and over.

[wbugenis]

The VPI (Vacuum pressure Impregnation) epoxy is a single component and cures with heat.

[havlicek]

John, If you ever want to go into production winding Eurosport Arms, let me know. I could use a couple!

Hi Gary. I really don't have the time to become an armature manufacturer but doing this with Bill and Lou is easy (Bill does all the finishing) and fun for me...and not a commercial enterprise. I guess(?) you can always contact Bill as I really don't know what he does with the arms.

John,
Are you ever in need of old burnt armatures of all classes and specs ?
I probably have hundreds I would donate to guy like you.
Your work is outstanding and your attention to detail is superb.

Gee Ron...thank you very much! I think I'm more persistent and obstinate than anything and really hate to give up. On the arms, quality arms with .007" lams that haven't been balanced or epoxied are really the ones I can use most. Best example I can think of are the Mura Challenger I arms. I sometimes take the time to clean up other arms...throwing away the parts of the stack that have been drilled, but it's a heck of a lot of work and truthfully...I've gotten spoiled by Bill's arms and coms. Older blank Mura and Champion arms and coms are awfully scarce at this point and they make great arms...but I haven't seen any in a while now.

-john

[Alchemist]

Thanks everyone for your suggestions on metal shavings removal inside the motor!

I appreciate it - thank you again!

Ernie

[havlicek]

I did another Strapnut arm for the last setup I built with the Mura endbell and S7 can. This time a #27 wind on stack assembled from loose Mura .007 lams. Arm is .300" long x .509" diameter. I did static balancing on this one and it's extremely smooth and torquey with lots of RPMs. It doesn't seem to get at all hot after a short break-in and draws around 2.5 amps...a strong but reasonable wind that should go like the dickens.



-john