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Arm winding #1

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#2326 havlicek

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Posted 20 December 2010 - 05:02 PM

Hi Doug,

They're experimental eurosports arms that haven't been ground, balanced, brazed, tied and epoxied yet. I came up with a special winding pattern for this particular arm, they seem to meter fine...but my meter is not up to the sensitivity required for these things. I'm chasing consistency and it's been a tough slog because every minute detail counts at this level. Thankfully, the guys I'm working on this stuff with are perfectionists, but having gotten involved with this stuff, I have even more respect for the people who are doing this...if that's possible :)

-john
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#2327 Kim Lander

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Posted 20 December 2010 - 09:48 PM

John,
My goodness those arms look like pure fun, and speaking of pure fun, I ran my Havlicek Strap yesterday, the only word that describes it is "WOW"...it is awsome....the guy I was rinning with dropped his jaw and had to take a looooong look at the car. He thought I was pulling his leg about what the motor used to be, to be quite honest....the car is unreal fast and I think I am going to have to gear it down because I couldnt hit full throttle and keep the tires hooked up, I was never able to hit it all the way down the stretch. But the chassis and motor did great...thanks for the fun my friend, oh by the way...I found some thing for you and will get it to you soon...it is a 36D that I dont have a clue as to what company sold it....it is gold in color...maybe Revel ...maybe...I dont know.
TNX again,
Kim

#2328 Phil Irvin

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Posted 20 December 2010 - 11:16 PM

Posted Image

-john

:wub: :wub:
JOHN
Those look SOOO :wub: GOOD....(drool-drool) :blush:

OLPHRT
PHIL I.

#2329 havlicek

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Posted 21 December 2010 - 06:37 AM

Hi Phil,

Thanks, if they run as they're supposed to, it's due in no small part to the way the arms are finished and in particular the setups they go into which I'm told are really special. It's one thing to wind an arm (and I do try!), but getting it to perform the way it should is a matter of so many things coming together!

Hi Kim,

John,
My goodness those arms look like pure fun, and speaking of pure fun, I ran my Havlicek Strap yesterday, the only word that describes it is "WOW"...it is awsome....the guy I was rinning with dropped his jaw and had to take a looooong look at the car. He thought I was pulling his leg about what the motor used to be, to be quite honest....the car is unreal fast and I think I am going to have to gear it down because I couldnt hit full throttle and keep the tires hooked up, I was never able to hit it all the way down the stretch. But the chassis and motor did great...thanks for the fun my friend, oh by the way...I found some thing for you and will get it to you soon...it is a 36D that I dont have a clue as to what company sold it....it is gold in color...maybe Revel ...maybe...I dont know.
TNX again,
Kim


That's excellent news Kim! I've been waiting to see how the "Strapnuts" do "out there" for a lot of reasons. One, because the neos worry me about the heat problem. Two, because the magnets are glued-in and that always seems scarey. Three because there's almost no can left on those things. Four because the endbells are whittled-down to fit...and five because being a #26 wind...they're just a hot motor. Yours is one of the later ones and they did seem to improve after I did a few, but cobbling together such a crazy motor and then having it actually work is about as much fun as I can have...legally! Thanks for the report Kim!

I've sent the arm out to Bill Bugenis for dynamic balancing for my hottest Strapnut yet...this #24 wind. I'm thinking it might only be a lightweight drag motor of some sort, but after your report...who knows?

Posted Image

-john
John Havlicek

#2330 jockefors

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Posted 21 December 2010 - 05:48 PM

Hi
do thes baybes fit in a c-can or shortend c-can...and diam ? of the arms 0,513 or

do you sell thes and howe mutch
If cars were built to fly... they will have wings...

Joakim Forsman

#2331 havlicek

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Posted 21 December 2010 - 06:16 PM

Hi Joakim,

I don't sell them, they are part of an ongoing experiment and they're really made for cobalt strap motors.

-john
John Havlicek

#2332 GearBear

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Posted 21 December 2010 - 06:36 PM

oooOOOooo!!! I want some! Those arms look AWESOME John. What diameter can you cut them down to, without hurting the stacks? And what winds??? :blush::blush:

Seriously, After XMAS I'm going to be giving Joel at Camen a call to get a new Eurosport Cobalt Setup, If you want to sell an arm or two, I would love to get one to put into the new setup.

I have a couple of those blanks waiting for me to wind. But I'm going to have to put them on a new shaft, and remove some lams before doing a Eurosport arm. Do you know if Bill will sell a shorter stack blank? I need a .300" long stack (.810" long including Comm and spacers) and would like to get it close to .5" in diam, .494" would be even better after grinding.
Gary Johnson

#2333 havlicek

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Posted 21 December 2010 - 07:10 PM

Hi Gary,

I really don't sell them, and am only working directly with Bill Bugenis and Lou Pirro as a sort of R&D thing. If this were part of a "commercial" I'd put it in the swap section or whatever appropriate place. I post this stuff here really because I think it's interesting, way different from what I have ever done, certainly from the winding I did in the 60's, as well as what I've done since starting up again right here on SlotBlog. Since I've put some effort into this aspect of winding, I figured it was worth sharing.

My main message though remains the same, winding and building motors is fun (although maddeningly frustrating at times) and it can be done by most anyone for not much of an investment. It's also REALLY retro, easily as much so as scratchbuilding chassis, and can be creative too. As an interesting aside, the winds I've done on more vintage motors have improved noticeably since trying to do these eurosports arms. I hope more people will give this stuff a try.

-john

PS, Bill is an excellent source for arms and coms and I'm pretty sure he can get you those .300" stacks. His stuff is great quality from what I can see.
John Havlicek

#2334 Victor Poulin

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Posted 21 December 2010 - 08:22 PM

John, That new build is looking NASTY !! and I mean that in a good sense ;) I haven't had time to try one that style yet, but I hope to as soon as I get caught up after the holidays.
Alright, who cut the cheese?

#2335 havlicek

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Posted 21 December 2010 - 08:35 PM

Hi Vic,

I've got a few of them out there, but Kim is the first one to report back to me on how they perform. So far it looks encouraging so go for it. The one thing I think is important is to leave a little bit (at least as much as is in the picture) of radius at the can end corners. It helps a lot to keep the can strong-ish :) as these were never designed to be hacked-up this much. Let us know how it goes for you and what you find! Oh yeah, I used regular JB Weld to bond the magnets and it seems to be OK...so far.

-john
John Havlicek

#2336 Victor Poulin

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Posted 21 December 2010 - 09:01 PM

Hi Vic,

I've got a few of them out there, but Kim is the first one to report back to me on how they perform. So far it looks encouraging so go for it. The one thing I think is important is to leave a little bit (at least as much as is in the picture) of radius at the can end corners. It helps a lot to keep the can strong-ish :) as these were never designed to be hacked-up this much. Let us know how it goes for you and what you find! Oh yeah, I used regular JB Weld to bond the magnets and it seems to be OK...so far.

-john


Thanks John,
I cant wait to give it a try. I wont have one of those hot rewinds of yours, but maybe I,ll try that set up with a nice hot X-12 arm :)

Vic
Alright, who cut the cheese?

#2337 Victor Poulin

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Posted 21 December 2010 - 09:01 PM

Hi Vic,

I've got a few of them out there, but Kim is the first one to report back to me on how they perform. So far it looks encouraging so go for it. The one thing I think is important is to leave a little bit (at least as much as is in the picture) of radius at the can end corners. It helps a lot to keep the can strong-ish :) as these were never designed to be hacked-up this much. Let us know how it goes for you and what you find! Oh yeah, I used regular JB Weld to bond the magnets and it seems to be OK...so far.

-john


Thanks John,
I cant wait to give it a try. I wont have one of those hot rewinds of yours, but maybe I,ll try that set up with a nice hot X-12 arm :)

Vic
Alright, who cut the cheese?

#2338 havlicek

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Posted 22 December 2010 - 06:38 AM

Cool Vic! I'm sure it will be a screamer with a that arm.

-john
John Havlicek

#2339 jockefors

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Posted 22 December 2010 - 04:18 PM

Hi cant you make a guide of howe to wind arms ...i woud love too try this...

howe dose it work ? if i wind ith new thiker tred and less twist do i get more powet out of the arm..and howe do i cange timing ...when i wind the arm and please show us howe to epoxi the arm..so it lasts...
balance is not the important for me,we send our arms avay and balance them its cheep...they do it for a few dollar
If cars were built to fly... they will have wings...

Joakim Forsman

#2340 havlicek

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Posted 22 December 2010 - 05:29 PM

Hi Joakim,

Hi cant you make a guide of howe to wind arms ...i woud love too try this...


I have documented all I know right here, with pictures and as much description as I could manage. Unlike the 60's, I kept no secrets...so if you're really interested in doing this (I hope so!), best to start looking through the "Arm Winding" thread and bookmarking the pages that show what you're looking for.

howe dose it work ?


Well, there's 117 pages worth of information here!

if i wind ith new thiker tred and less twist do i get more powet out of the arm..


That can work as long as the magnets are strong and the rest of the motor is very good. If not, it can just burn up.

.and howe do i cange timing


There are diagrams on that in this thread, but you'll have to look around for them.

.when i wind the arm and please show us howe to epoxi the arm..so it lasts...


That also is in the thread and many of these things have been covered more than once. The kind of epoxy you will need for many high-power arms will probably need to be ordered as it's usually not found in stores.

balance is not the important for me,we send our arms avay and balance them its cheep...they do it for a few dollar


We do that here as well ;) I still think it's a good idea to learn how to balance. Many arms that are "experiments" can be tested right away by just doing the balancing yourself instead of sending them out and then waiting for them to come back. When you get good at balancing, you can often balance them well-enough to not need to send them out and that just adds another level of satisfaction to making an armature...you did it ALL yourself.


So look through the thread, bookmark the pages, get some arms (either new...or old ones that can be stripped and rewound) and have fun.

-john
John Havlicek

#2341 Alchemist

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Posted 23 December 2010 - 12:31 AM

but having gotten involved with this stuff, I have even more respect for the people who are doing this...if that's possible


Hi John,

I have an immeasurable amount of respect for your rewinding work. I know I have quite a few of your motors - yet to be installed in deserving chassis, but the sharing of your endeavors, accomplishments and the new path you're paving is quite exciting as well as an inspiration and motivation for me. As you know there are others (like Vic and Robert - pardon me if I've left anyone out) who have started to make their own path in rewinding due to your efforts.

Like Vic said "Nasty motors" - I like nasty motors - LOL!!! This is "motor porn" and I can't get enough - LOL!!!

Thank you my friend!!

Ernie
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#2342 Alchemist

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Posted 23 December 2010 - 12:35 AM

My goodness those arms look like pure fun, and speaking of pure fun, I ran my Havlicek Strap yesterday, the only word that describes it is "WOW"...it is awsome....the guy I was rinning with dropped his jaw and had to take a looooong look at the car. He thought I was pulling his leg about what the motor used to be, to be quite honest....the car is unreal fast and I think I am going to have to gear it down because I couldnt hit full throttle and keep the tires hooked up, I was never able to hit it all the way down the stretch. But the chassis and motor did great


Hi Kim!

May I ask you please, what type of chassis did you put Sir John's "strap motor" into please? Any photos please?

Happy Holidays to you and your family Kim!

Ernie
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#2343 havlicek

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Posted 23 December 2010 - 06:35 AM

Hi Ernie and thanks as always for the encouraging words.

May I ask you please, what type of chassis did you put Sir John's "strap motor" into please? Any photos please?


That's the crazy thing Ernie. Kim put the motor into an inline retro-type chassis :shok: , certainly not the type car I figured but he told me it was really fast like that anyway. I would have figured the motor would have gone anglewinder in a very light piano wire chassis with a high downforce body...or even a modern steel chassis like they use for G12 etc. Since the motor can was derived from a Falcon, it could easily just be screwed to a standard bracket using the mounting holes...so it was a "drop-in" installation.

-john
John Havlicek

#2344 Robert V.

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Posted 23 December 2010 - 08:27 AM

Hi John

Those Green arms look very good let us know how they run when you get a report back, that motor looks a bit like a G27 i wonder if it will run like one.
I am still winding i just want to wait till i get a few done to send them out to have them balaced by a pro as one of them is pretty hot.
Robert Vaglio

#2345 Alchemist

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Posted 23 December 2010 - 12:22 PM

Hi John,

That's really exciting news! I grew up with inlines and is actually my favorite motor setup no matter what all the guys at the track say to the contrary.

Thanks for letting me know.

Ernie
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#2346 havlicek

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Posted 23 December 2010 - 01:20 PM

that motor looks a bit like a G27 i wonder if it will run like one.



Well...with a hot #24 wind in it, it will either run like one or vaporize! Not too many other possibilities at that end of the spectrum :laugh2: Of course with Bill Bugenis balancing it, I at least know it will run nice and smooth ;)

-john
John Havlicek

#2347 wbugenis

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Posted 23 December 2010 - 02:36 PM

John

The 24 arm meters lower than the eurosport arms meant for cobalt setups. All three poles are exactly the same though - just what you are looking for.
Balanced arm is back in the mail today.
William Bugenis

#2348 havlicek

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Posted 23 December 2010 - 02:47 PM

Hi Bill...and thanks for the info. Only problem now is that it sounds like it will definitely be too much for the setup. I'll give it a spin from behind a blast shield :)

-john
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#2349 GearBear

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Posted 23 December 2010 - 05:14 PM

John,

What diameter are the Euro Arms when you end up grinding down the stacks?

I'm very interested in any information you have on your Euro arms.
Gary Johnson

#2350 havlicek

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Posted 23 December 2010 - 05:37 PM

John,

What diameter are the Euro Arms when you end up grinding down the stacks?

I'm very interested in any information you have on your Euro arms.



Hi Gary,

I'm pretty sure they're taking them down to .480"...maybe even as small as .460". I don't have the equipment to do precision OD grinding of the stacks, but I understand that they're taking them down pretty far. Development is ongoing for the eurosports and they're going for not so much sheer brute torque as for a softer power curve and more driveability since the eurosports tracks are flat and have to actually be driven. I'm not a driver so, a lot of this information is second hand.

-john

PS...they're really not "my" eurosports arms. I'm just the guy winding them and welding them...sometimes epoxying and tieing them. The rest of the finishing work and the setups are done by Bill and Lou, so I'm more like just one step in the process.
John Havlicek





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