267 replies to this topic

[eshorer]

 

Interesting.  At one time we tried to handicap drivers in our races at Slots of Fun along a similar method.

 

So if the estimated 16 lap differential is accurate and had been applied in this race what changes to the final outcome would there have been?

 

Don

Jim Lane was the winner, after his 15 laps for driving a 3 C's Hardtop were applied. Phil Nyland was 2nd after his 8 laps for driving a Short Track Nascar were added. I can post the Final Results after Keith Tanaka completes the official Race Report, which will include the Handicap Laps.

By the way, in our 2nd race of the day, all GTP cars, since there is no need to apply a Class Handicap, there IS a Drivers Handicap that is applied based on yet another formula that Keith Tanaka has devised based on previous Hardbody Race Finishes. See chart here: https://socald3.smug...21-19/i-4njhc4w  It works very well for those who rarely make the podium. 

Eddie

[eshorer]

Keith Tanaka's write-up of the Hardbody Race, and a link to the official Race Report is here:  http://slotblog.net/...e-report-81819/

Enjoy.

Eddie

[Don Weaver]

Eddie,

 

So if I read this right, with the "estimated handicap" of 16 laps for Can-Am cars the Lola would have won the mixed race by 5 laps?

 

Don

[Keith Tanaka]

Don, the "estimated handicap" for the new Can Am class was not used on Sunday.  I just added this new class to our Lap Differential chart but we will not assign an official lap differential until we have at least two races completed.

After Eddie's race with Pablo's Lola T-70, it appears that the lap differential for this new Can Am class "could" end up starting around 6 to 9 laps but we won't know until we have more race results.

 

Anyway, Pablo's Lola T-70 Can Am car was excellent. It was fast and handled very well. Although this car is not as wide as our GTP cars (3.25"), it has a much lower center of gravity than our Short Track NASCAR class (3.25" wide tire width, chassis typically 3" wide) and the body is lighter in weight than the typical Short Track NASCAR.

 

Originally, our Can Am class was part of the GTP/Mid-Engine class (which is the fastest D3 hardbody racing class at BPR), but there was little to no interest in racing the Can Am cars because they couldn't compete with the faster GTP cars (wider cars, chassis). Creating a separate class for Can Am hopefully would encourage our builders/racers to race these great looking cars from the original Can Am series. 

 

Thanks to Eddie and Pablo, I think the Can Am class will have other builders/racers interested in Can Am cars again.

 

Keith

[Pablo]

My Lola has returned to "The Wolcott Ranch" for a post-race inspection, cleanup, and a few minor corrections/improvements.

Piece of cake 

 

[Bill from NH]

Did the "Pablo" tag get covered with lead? On the next hard body chassis you build, you could use thicker brass.

[Don Weaver]

But then you can't re-position the weight for different tracks...

 

Don

[Bill from NH]

Don, how many tracks run this type of hard body cars? I only know of BPR. If there are others, build track-specific cars. Thicker brass would mean fewer parts that could fall off during a race. i know lead isn't supposed to fall off, but it does.

[eshorer]

Don, how many tracks run this type of hard body cars? I only know of BPR. If there are others, build track-specific cars. Thicker brass would mean fewer parts that could fall off during a race. i know lead isn't supposed to fall off, but it does.

One reason to not build with the thicker brass would be that even on one track, conditions could change depending on when it was last run, whether it was cleaned and glued, or even the consistency/amount of gluing. You can always add weight on thinner brass; it's pretty tough to remove weight with the thicker, heavier brass.

 

Pablo: Did you take a look at the motor? It was still running strong, I just wondered what makes brakes go away: Less spring tension as the brushes wear? Magnets getting weaker as the motor gets hot in these heavy cars? What are your thoughts? 

Eddie

[Pablo]

Every post-race inspection here at The Wolcott Ranch includes a brush and comm inspection, of course.

 

Lead wires look kinda funky. They did their job once but I'm not going to chance twice, so I discarded them. Then numbered each pile of lead and snapped a pic before I remove, weigh, SANO-ize, and re-attach using contact cement

 

 

 

And do a cleanup of the glue residue left by the piles Eddie re-positioned. QTip and lac thinner should do the trick pronto

 

 

Pile #8 sits dangerously close to the LR wheel, matter of fact if I flex it hard enough it actually touches. This is a design flaw and will be an easy fix

 

[Pablo]

Total weight of the car post-race is 167. So I'll be making sure it weighs the same when it goes back to LA.

 

Wear on the brushes is minimal, but what little there is, is very even, indicating proper tongue tilt and alignments. Thanks in no small part to the Ch-Town 2 deg. steel tongue. I may just give them a swipe or 2 with a braid brush and slap 'em back in there

 

 

Clearances front and rear are still well within specs

[Pablo]

When I removed the motor, the axle tube came undone. No panic, I'll fix it, and improve the design. Next motor change, that won't happen. I fixed the BP Platform by adjusting the keepers

 

 

 

Eddie, my inspection of the motor revealed the brushes had very little wear and the comm was very clean. Probably due to my good breakin process back several years ago. Lack of brakes, I can only surmise to: old motor and old mags. 

Let's see how a new motor works    New HR motor, tinned in all the right places, pinion installed, broken in, ready for battle

 

 

The clips worked well to attach the hardbody, but not perfect. Eddie says they were kind of "tricky". That's all I needed to hear - time to try the Gene/ZR1 method ........

 

 

 

 

[Jaeger Team]

"I fixed the BP Platform by adjusting the keepers"

Meaning it doesn't wiggle ever?

[Pablo]

Oh it still wiggles a little, just not quite as much. Simply a matter of adjusting the retainers.

[Pablo]

Gene/ZR1 hardbody mount method works like a charm       .063 pins soldered to the existing clip holes

 

 

Body comes on and off so easy it blows my mind. I hogged out the body holes to about .080; pan movement is still free and the body has nice wiggle

 

 

Ends of the rod pieces are rounded but in case anybody questions they may scrape the track, I'll slip some wire insulation over them and secure using a microdot of CA

 

[Pablo]

Axle tube is now wire wrapped both sides. Next motor change it won't come loose 

 

[SpeedyNH]

hey Pablo, what's that movable plate on the back end for? I don't think that I've ever seen that done.

[Pablo]

It's a platform for lead weights.

[Pablo]

New motor is in; this time only two attachment points instead of three. Two is plenty. Same as before when swapping it out, Eddie - slice upper tube piece in half with 409, heat left side joint, twist free.

 

I tried California Loops on the new TQ lead wires, but they weren't behaving. So I went back to BP Kinks and they worked perfect. I reckon this car just knows it's a BP car 

 

Eddie, you'll flip when you see how sweet the new body mounts are. No tools, comes on/off in about 5 seconds 

 

[Bill from NH]

An alternative to slicing that upper tube with a disk would be to heat the joint & stick a single bladed (or a double bladed, w/one blade taped) razor blade in the joint while the solder is still liquid. Solder won't stick to the razor blade.

[Pablo]

All weights are complete, same locations and sizes as before, just new, flattened, cleaned up, adhesive tape removed, and attached with contact cement. 6 and 7 were modified (split) to get them where Eddie wanted them, but lowered to pan level. This time I got smart and etched the ID numbers into them: 3,4,5,6F,6R,7F,7R and 8.

 

#8 is now two layers of .032 instead of one .063 and staggered to clear the wheel better yet still stay as far forward as possible. Before:

 

 

After:

 

[Pablo]

All done, she passes the drivetrain test perfectly, ready to return to LA. Gene's trick body mount method is so easy, it could probably be removed and replaced while blindfolded    The insulation nubbies are just experimental and I doubt they are even needed

 

[Tangmere]

What's a "rocker"?

 

Lower part of the body beneath the doors.

[sportblazer350]

here are early pix of my Tamiya Lola that i built for our NJ H&R Racing chassis hardbody series. I plan to use one of these bodies for our NJ Vintage Racing 36D series

 

[Bill from NH]

I don't own one, but i've driven a few, These H&R chassis run extremely well when they're set up properly. It's one of the legal late model chassis at the 1/24 hard body club group I sometimes run with.