87 replies to this topic

[Rotorranch]

The 906's I saw at Road America in '66 were mostly silver, or white. German silver or USA white.

 

There might have been other 906's in other colors that weekend, but those are the two that stand out to me. They were the loudest cars to me in the field. 

 

In '67, colors for 906's were all over the place. By that time Porsche was running 908's.

 

Rotor

[Bill from NH]

I don't think Gulf was involved with the 906's, but their typical light blue & orange stripe would look sharp.

[Rotorranch]

Gulf blue and orange looks good on anything!

 

Rotor

[TSR]

906s were painted in plenty of colors since over 120 of them were built. Green, red, yellow, orange, blue were actually more common that silver or white, which were the colors most used by works supported cars.

Have a look for inspiration:

https://duckduckgo.c...mages&ia=images

[strummer]

Thanks for the ideas/suggestions...  and that awesome link, Philippe.  

 

I had no idea there would be so many options...

 

Mark in Oregon

[strummer]

Quite early on in this conversation it was suggested that, since the roof/window piece is compromised (broken) I might consider making this into the "Spyder" open-cockpit version. Since it's unlikely I will ever find a replacement piece, this idea seems to have some real validity...except...  

 

...since this body was intended to have a roof attached, there is very little in the way of detail in that area, as you can see here:

 

 

 

 Remember, it was also suggested at one point that I just "box this up and put it away" as not really worth pursuing. However, because I'm having a great time with this (and put some time and a few bucks into it already) I'd hate to just "give up on it and walk away". So...

 

...I am open to any and all ideas/suggestions that don't involve quitting!  

 

Mark in Oregon

 

 

 

[Rotorranch]

Fill the rear area with a sheet of styrene, add a set of Russkit Porsche 906 velocity stacks, and detail the interior to your hearts content.

 

You are having fun... That's all that matters!

 

Rotor

[strummer]

Fill the rear area with a sheet of styrene, add a set of Russkit Porsche 906 velocity stacks, and  

 

1. detail the interior to your hearts content.  

 

You are having fun... That's all that matters!

 

Rotor

 

Oh c'mon Jeff, you'll have to do better than that!  

 

1.  I mean, look at where the steering wheel goes; and the flat area next to the driver. Short of cutting the entire cockpit area out and replacing it (something I know I can't do or won't want to attempt), I don't have a clue how to approach this. I'm pretty sure that just painting that area (to show it's separate from the rest of the body) just won't cut it...

 

The only other option I can think of would be to cut away that broken rear section of the "glass" from the roof/window section and try to replace it; but again, I feel that's something beyond my capabilities. Plus, I kinda like the way this looks as an open-cockpit car. 

 

2.  But you're right: this and the Chaparral project are bringing me a great deal of pleasure...and as always, you and everyone here are partially responsible..and I thank you all for that.  

 

Mark in Oregon

[Rotorranch]

The cockpit is flat to clear the inline motor. You can make a steering wheel from a piece of wire or solder,  (I usually use solder), wrapped around a socket or wood dowel of the appropriate size.

 

Rotor

[strummer]

The cockpit is flat to clear the inline motor. You can make a steering wheel from a piece of wire or solder,  (I usually use solder), wrapped around a socket or wood dowel of the appropriate size.

 

Rotor

 

Actually, I have both the steering wheel and the driver's head (picture from the original eBay listing):

 

 

...so I guess what I really need is some kind of plan to make that area look less..."barren".

 

Am awaiting your suggestions. 

 

Mark in Oregon

[Bill from NH]

You could look for a top view photo of a Porsche engine &  put that back there. I have an original Russkit 906 interiors & that back area is barren. It just has two parallel pockets for the velocity stacks, no other engine detail.

[TSR]

Another link to help you create a proper engine compartment:

https://duckduckgo.c...mages&ia=images

[strummer]

Bill

 

Good to know; thanks. Maybe I'll get some extra pipe parts from Brad when I order similar stuff for my Chaparral. It may not be technically correct, but it's starting to look like I'll be "free lancing" this model somewhat anyway.

 

Philippe

 

Wow; thanks for that link.

 

What I'm really "concerned" about though is that (more or less) "blank-ish" cockpit area; there's nothing cast into the shell that would delineate where the cockpit "begins and ends", so to speak. And look at the way the driver's arms (and the passenger seat) just sort of "melt" into the surrounding flat surface. 

 

Again, I get it; this was intended to have a roof enclosure, so interior detailing was not that important, but I want to go the open cockpit route, so I need to figure how to make that area look somewhat "finished" and complete. I do have a couple of ideas... 

 

Mark in Oregon

 

 

[strummer]

...and here they are.

 

I think remember in Mr. Piot's Chaparral thread he did some scribing in the body shell to add or emphasizes detail. I thought I might try that here, to establish some sort of cockpit parameter. 

 

But before I try anything as irreversible as that, I thought I would attempt something similar with a length of "craft wire". Instead of the "border" being lower than the surface of the shell (scribed) this would be above the shell surface. (In looking at the cockpit "border" on my Cox Chaparral, I noticed that is a raised detail.)

 

 

 

Those little white dots are filled holes where the original roof mounts were.

 

I laid this out so that it would line up with the top of where the doors end, and kind of follow the "flow" of where it seems the cockpit would likely be. This allows for a "dashboard" area, and would serve as a definitive "demarcation" for final painting, etc.

 

What do you think? Should I just give up and walk away now?  

 

Mark in Oregon

 

EDIT:

 

I shot some primer on the wire, added the driver's head and steering wheel: hopefully this will help you in making your verdict! 

 

 

 

[Martin]

Hey Mark, are you going to use the windshield from the stock top (just cut down)? and I see that some of these 1/1car use the stock roll bar too.

The biggest change will be raising the rear deck, not sure if you can cut the old one out an raise it or fab from sheet?

Looks like you can get in there with a Dremel slitting saw. Just got to go slow with no heat.

 

Just a note, the side windows are straight at the base, no curve. Right over the white dot straight back the intake scoops IMO.

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[strummer]

Hello Martin 

 

I had thought about that; in fact I did cut the windshield off from the rest the roof/window part in anticipation of using it for that purpose.

 

The problem with that is the glass sweeps back along the sides of the cockpit from the windshield proper in one large single piece; on the model (as you probably know) the "glass" has recesses in it for the roof supports to seat into, so the clear plastic "glass" doesn't really lend itself to this particular application.

 

Having said all that(!) I will probably cut down the windshield and just live with it. After all, in the model railroading world, they go by the "3 foot" rule:

 

"If it looks good enough from 3 feet, it's good enough".  

 

Here is the car (sans windscreen) from about a foot and a half:

 

 

I think (hope!) that once it's all painted, it'll look okay...

 

Please give me your honest opinion(s)...

 

Mark in Oregon

[Alan Dodson]

I think it looks great! You could make a windscreen out of some clear sheet, either lexan or acrylic or whatever you have on hand. just make a pattern out of card stock or an old file folder and you're good to go!

[strummer]

Gosh, thanks Alan. I appreciate that, I really do.

 

I (more or less) took Martin's advice, cut down the original windscreen and here is where we stand now:

 

 

I can only imagine the "purists" and collectors of "real" slot cars must be scratching their collective heads over this    but if you go back to the beginning of this thread, in the 8th comment I explained that this project was basically meant as a sort of "test bed" for me to explore this larger scale.

 

In that regard, it has exceeded any expectations I may have had. I love the heft, size and feel of this big stuff; and the fact that there were SO many items produced (in such a short amount of time!) and have survived the decades make it all the more interesting...and fun. 

 

To be continued...

 

Mark in Oregon

 

 

[Martin]

Can the wire match the windshield or is it glued on? Not sure why you did not sit the stock top on top of the body and mark the body with a pencil then match with the wire?

 

Side windows sit on top of the doors, That is the stock part too, no?

[strummer]

Good observations. I didn't use the "stock top" to mark it because...

 

...I didn't think to do that!      See, this is why I need your guys' input!! 

 

First off, I cut small notches next to the "air intakes" to give the adhesive more surface for bonding the wire to the shell:

 

 

I also had the notch the corners of the windshield:

 

 

...so it could be moved far enough back to clear the front bonnet detail:

 

 

 

Turns out, this enabled the windscreen to move back to within about 1/8" (or less) of the wire; which for my purposes is close enough. 

 

Not sure what you mean about the side windows...please elaborate.

 

Mark in Oregon

 

[MattD]

Too late to the party, I was going to suggest you use your stock top and windows, make a new back window and build the car as it was originally.designed.     You could mess around with some thin, clear plastic and make your self a new back window.   You might try 5 times before you like the end result, but in the end you would be a modeler and able to see there are no limits to what you can make or re-purpose.

 

 

A lot of cars have been fixed by cutting up vac-formed bodies to get windows and other parts you need.

[strummer]

That thought occurred to me Matt; the reason I did not go that route was two-fold:

 

1. As you probably know, there are louvers molded along the sides of that back window; I just couldn't imagine how I would be able to reproduce those, and...

 

2. The above thought occurred to me only after I had already begun cutting away the windshield! 

 

Here's what it looked like February 11; the day after I first got it:

 

 

I laid out all the loose parts (driver, windscreen, steering wheel...nothing glued in place yet) where they will ultimately go, and here's how it looks as of tonight:

 

 

There is still a great deal left to do, but it's actually starting to look like...well, something. 

 

Mark in Oregon

 

[Martin]

Mark, the side windows are straight from back of the windshield notch to the scoops, no bulge. Maybe its too late, I will get out of your build.

[strummer]

1. the side windows are straight from back of the windshield notch to the scoops, no bulge. Maybe its too late,

 

2. I will get out of your build.

 

Martin

 

1. Oh I see what you mean now. Yeah, I should have looked at trying to salvage those side panels as well; that didn't even occur to me at the time...although that would have called for some pretty fancy surgery! 

 

2. Don't give up on me yet, please. You, along with so many others, have been super with your suggestions and observations. Stuff like that is invaluable; especially to a newbie such as myself!     

 

Mark in Oregon

[Martin]

I will stay tuned and watch as you build this one, just do not want to be a distraction.

Have fun