87 replies to this topic

[don.siegel]

Depends what track you're running on Mark! 

 

I've had very good luck with Paul Gage tires on different surfaces and he's a good guy. That's assuming you want urethane, and not silicone - don't even know who makes sillies these days, since they're mostly banned from our vintage events - and we're going more and more to urethanes only. They're happier on plastic track or a wooden track that's not too slick, as opposed to a polyurethane surface, but will also work on those. 

 

So Oregon is still wet, eh? Went to school in Portland from 1970 to 1974... it wasn't so much the rain as the gray skies, but the rain wasn't all that heavy, right? 

 

Don 

[strummer]

Thank you Don...

 

Oh dear, more variables. 

 

At this point, I can only assume the Scalextric track I have is too narrow for 1/24 (being only 6 1/8" wide) so I'm hoping the Aurora track I have (also 1/32, but is a full 7" wide) will at least give me something to test stuff on.

 

I have purchased some Paul Gage tire sets for a couple of 1/32 cars, and find them to be very nice indeed.

 

I understand there's a track in Roseburg (about 130 miles from here) that does 1/24; my hope is to cobble something together so I can stop by there sometime and give it a go.

 

And yes, it's very wet here today: close to 3" so far just since early this morning. My street is less of a road right now and more of a stream...

 

Mark in Oregon

[TSR]

Just for fun...
These are Russkit prototypes of the roofless 906 and the "Bergspyder", but as other proposed prototypes, were never issued. The patterns were made by Ron Klein from the original Tony Bulone crafted 906 coupe mold (the nicest and most accurate model ever made of the 906 in any scale), then after Jim Russell shut down the Russkit company, distributed by club member Klein and used in MESAC club events.

 

The Strombecker 1/24 scale Porsche 906 is a bit scarce and came only in RTR form (white or pale yellow in the US, possibly other colors in France), as well as their far more common 1/32 scale version. The correct motor for it in the black chassis is a Strombecker TC24, generally the same size as the Mabuchi FT36D motor. Hence as the TC24 is a far less common motor than the thousands of remaining NOS Mabuchi motors, the FT36D would be an easy choice.

 

[strummer]

Nice. Very, very nice. Thanks for showing those.

 

Well gang, as expected, the Porsche arrived this afternoon. I took some photos of the entire lot so you can see what I got for my 50 bucks.

 

Here is the car "in question":

 

 

As you can see, the last third or so of the back window is broken away; otherwise it looks to be more or less complete.

 

Chassis:

 

 

I really like this; it's in great condition ( I think). I like the brass bearings and the big gear is a Cox # 4144 37T. Have not a clue about the wheels and tires, especially those ridiculous rear ones.  

 

It came with some other stuff as well: a K&B controller:

 

 

The (3) alligator clips are marked "Mueller Electric Co. Cleveland O USA". 

 

Some parts:  (I don't have any idea what the black things are). I think the wheel covers are for the Porsche(?)

 

 

A few tools: including a pair of wire cutters (not shown) marked "Utica, N.Y."

 

 

 

The lowest wrench is marked "Cox". 

 

Finally, a set of brushes (dunno what they go to):

 

 

There is also a Strombecker power pack #9700. Didn't take a picture, because you already know what that looks like.

 

There you go. Since I have basically zero 1/24 parts, I'm sure at least some of this stuff be prove to be useful. I'm stoked about the gear puller for example.

 

Another project for me to play with...and to ask questions about. 

 

Mark in Oregon

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[strummer]

Just for fun...

 

The Strombecker 1/24 scale Porsche 906 is a bit scarce and came only in RTR form (white or pale yellow in the US, possibly other colors in France), as well as their far more common 1/32 scale version. The correct motor for it in the black chassis is a Strombecker TC24, generally the same size as the Mabuchi FT36D motor. Hence as the TC24 is a far less common motor than the thousands of remaining NOS Mabuchi motors, the FT36D would be an easy choice.

 

 

That's interesting...

 

I took the 36D from the Cox Chaparral and tried it in this chassis: it "fits", but since the gear on the Cox motor is for a "sidewinder" it's too "fat" to properly engage the "inline" gear in this model. I suppose a 36D with the right gear would be fine...(?)

 

On to the shell.

 

The rear end of this was packed with green putty; upon removing that it looks like this is a "white" version. The roof section is definitely pure white. I (think) the pale yellow is just discoloration.  It looks whiter in this pic than it really is:

 

 

I was able to take off any "add on" pieces: driver's head, running and headlights, steering wheel. One of the headlight covers is intact; though not pristine. The other is only partially there.

 

Now that I've had a chance to look this over more closely, I see that there is a chip in the corner of the rear spoiler; you can see it in the photo. To do a truly decent repair/patch job is probably beyond my abilities. 

 

Because this is apparently somewhat "scarce", I'm perfectly willing to swap this shell with anyone who can do a proper restoration. Just wanted to throw that out there... 

 

Mark in Oregon

 

EDIT: Martin: I got your message. Yes, let's work something out.

[TSR]

You do not need a new motor, you just need a period gear puller (the 0.093" shaft is too big for modern 0.078" pinions) and a standard brass inline pinion of which there are millions still left from the 1968 collapse of our favorite hobby.

Repairing the broken spoiler is also a piece of cake, using a chunk of white polystyrene that you can steal from rejected common domestic objects, glued in place with proper styrene adhesive and contoured to the correct shape with a few hand tools.

You can do ANYTHING with your hands, it is just a matter of learning and practice, and why our hobby is not the mind-numbing two-dimensional world of video games.

[strummer]

1. You do not need a new motor, you just need a period gear puller (the 0.093" shaft is too big for modern 0.078" pinions) and a standard brass inline pinion of which there are millions still left from the 1968 collapse of our favorite hobby.

2. Repairing the broken spoiler is also a piece of cake, using a chunk of white polystyrene that you can steal from rejected common domestic objects, glued in place with proper styrene adhesive and contoured to the correct shape with a few hand tools.

3. You can do ANYTHING with your hands, it is just a matter of learning and practice, and why our hobby is not the mind-numbing two-dimensional world of video games.

 

Philippe

 

As always, I appreciate your thoughts and comments. 

 

1: Actually, I do. The motor from the Cox Chaparral is for...the Cox Chaparral.    Dunno if I mentioned it, but this Porsche came to me without a motor. I tried the "Chappy's" 36D just to see if it would fit the Porsche's chassis.  While we're on the subject, can you recommend the "proper" gear that would mate with the Cox #4144 37T rear axle gear that's on this Strombecker chassis? Finding another 36D will be easy: but I don't know anything about gears. Thanks in advance.

 

2: Maybe...but since I already offered it out to someone who is more confident than I am, I think it's probably going to end up in his capable hands. If not, heck, I'll give it a go!

 

3: True enough; I started on guitar (back in 1970) playing rock; now all these years later, I play jazz!

 

Mark in Oregon

[don.siegel]

Mark, 

 

Again, it depends on the track, but a good starting point for this motor would be a 10 tooth pinion, and the shaft is actually .091, if you're looking for one - both 36Ds and pinions are pretty common on ebay, or you might find one at various online stores: Professor Motor, Electric Dreams, EJ's Hobbies, etc. 

 

A bit more patience and you could probably find the Strombecker TC24 motor - one just sold on ebay for 10 bucks! 

 

Don 

[strummer]

Thanks Don, regarding that gear; a fellow forum member PM'ed me the same suggestion. 

 

That reminds me: here's a real beginner's question.

 

Assuming I find a suitable motor, and gear (which shouldn't be too difficult): what is the best and safest way to press a gear onto a motor shaft? I have a small jeweler's drill press... (?)

 

Thank you.

 

Mark in Oregon

[TSR]

Mark, you can use a small press of a precision vise. I always put a "pinion stop" in the form of a small piece of brass of the proper thickness with a groove to get around the shaft. This stops the pinion from going too far down when pressed.

[strummer]

Thanks...and good idea regarding the "pinion stop".

Mark in Oregon

[Martin]

The tool marked (A) is handy for pushing a pinion on and the best pullers have parallel jaws so it does not smash the teeth on removal , and make your removable pinion stop shim the same thickness as the jaws. (G) or (J) style work best.

But like P suggested a small vice with flat jaws works just fine.

I like tool (A) because I can sit the can on the beam and know I am parallel. 

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[Bill from NH]

Martin, "H" is a Rand gear puller. Perhaps you already knew this. I still have the one I bought in 1967 & it still works good. I use it mainly to pull off silver soldered-on pinions.

[Martin]

Bill I did not know the brand was Rand. Thanks.

My go to is (G) has a nice feel and fits in most gaps. Unless they did not take P suggestion.  Then the only thing to do is crush the pinon in a vice until it falls apart. Works well with brass pinons. Not sure about steel.

[strummer]

Bill I did not know the brand was Rand. Thanks.

My go to is (G) has a nice feel and fits in most gaps. Unless they did not take P suggestion.  Then the only thing to do is crush the pinon in a vice until it falls apart. Works well with brass pinons. Not sure about steel.

 

...?...

 

For this model, I was able to find (w/gear) a "Ranalli" 36D. I measured the frame first then double-checked the length of the motor with the seller before I bought it; looks to be a perfect fit at 1 7/16".  Should be here sometime next week and I'll at least be able to get the chassis up and running.  

 

Mark in Oregon

[Gene/ZR1]

The tool marked (A) is handy for pushing a pinion on and the best pullers have parallel jaws so it does not smash the teeth on removal , and make your removable pinion stop shim the same thickness as the jaws. (G) or (J) style work best.

But like P suggested a small vice with flat jaws works just fine.

I like tool (A) because I can sit the can on the beam and know I am parallel. 

I always wanted a Strombecker Tool Knife, I missed few on EBay here and there, but they were not in the best condition. 
Nice display.

g.
 

[TSR]

In the above picture, pinion pullers  F, H, I, J, K, L and "home made" are all bad as they will badly damage the pinion at its base, that will become unusable from the ensuing deformation of the teeth. The only good pinion puller is "G", made by Hudy. If one needs a puller for the larger 0.093" shaft, use a Dremel disc to gently enlarge the slot.

"B" is the Dynamic tool to press or remove axle bearings from their aluminum chassis and works well (with added lubricant).

Pinion press "A" is unlikely to do a precision job because but is far better than the awful Cox tool, "C".

Small precision vises (only 2" wide) made of tempered steel and available online for under $20.00, thanks to our dependency on Chinese manufacturing, are really the only tool you should use as a pinion press unless you own a real precision machine-shop vise.

Of course, anyone and everyone is free to do whatever they want, but the thousands (yes) of slot cars that circulated through my hands in the past 50 years show a level of craftsmanship that could have been to say the least, far better, regarding gear adjustment and installation, sloppy rear axle brackets, awful solder joints and body installation binding the chassis.
Oh well...


 

[Martin]

Not that it matters much but the Hudy puller looks like this below, Maybe they changed the shape and added the radii either side of the slot.

 

Until we find one that looks like (G) in the original Hudy package we cannot be sure

 

Notice the (G) puller, (on the right) has square cut corners either side of the slot. Very Rare.

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[strummer]

Yeah...that "flattened" area at the base certainly makes sense... 

 

Once again, small details I did not notice until they were pointed out to me.....     

 

Mark in Oregon

 

EDIT:

 

I just checked the one I got in the mail the other day: it seems to have that same feature.  

 

[TSR]

Mark,
The one you are showing is good and designed for both 0.078" and 0.093" shafts. So you are set. 
If you can acquire a Hudy gear puller (they don't come cheap), it will last you a lifetime.

[strummer]

Thanks so much.

 

It appears I got lucky again...I'm loving this 1/24 stuff! 

 

Mark in Oregon

[strummer]

Another update:

 

I decided to go ahead and attempt a repair on the chipped tail piece.

 

Before (upper right hand corner):

 

 

In progress:

 

 

 

Hoping to clean it up a bit more; am happy with it so far.

 

Thanks to Mr. de Lespinay (for telling me I should try it) and Mr. Piot (for showing me/us how it's done). 

 

Have a good day.

 

Mark in Oregon 

 

 

 

[strummer]

Light coat of primer...

 

 

I'm really pleased (and relived!) that the tail section turned out okay. 

 

Question: what would be an appropriate final color for this?

 

Have a good day.

 

Mark in Oregon

 

[Rotorranch]

Silver or white.

 

Rotor

[strummer]

Okay, thanks.

 

Pure white? Blue-ish silver?

 

What say you? 

 

Mark in Oregon