85 replies to this topic

[Martin]

Crazy cute

[dc-65x]

Thank you. I'm glad you guys like it too. I think Rick got the proportions of everything just right.
 

I had forgotten/didn't know that Parma made 1/32 scale bat pans back in the day.  I now wonder whatever happened to the tooling for that part and if there would be a demand for such parts from a retro point of view.

Steve, Parma made a 1" wide drop arm too:

 

[Pablo]

I finally figured out how Rick does it. He has a time machine like Stewie on Family Guy

 

 

He dials in 1969, goes back to SOCAL or East Coast, walks into a raceway and buys what he needs. "I'll take three of those, a dozen of those, some of those Muras, and some Jet Flags". Spends a couple hundred dollars, walks out with his treasures, goes behind the building, dials in the machine to 2020 and "Zoom" back to Oregon

 

Seriously, this 1/32 build blows me away. If anything ever tops this it's going to be something ………..

[SpeedyNH]

good thing it's a cartoon- the power switch is in the middle between On and Off. 

[Martin]

Rick you inspired me to find this chassis, I knew I had stashed.   Can I play now?

3'' w.b.

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[dc-65x]

Very nice workmanship on that chassis Martin. Get it in the tumbler and see it come back to life............

 

I finally figured out how Rick does it. He has a time machine like Stewie on Family Guy

 

You're close Pablo. Actually I use the older version.........the Wayback Machine:

 

 

[Half Fast]

good thing it's a cartoon- the power switch is in the middle between On and Off. 

 

Its a Schrodinger switch.

 

Cheers

[dc-65x]

Time to get my "jig motor" turned into a race motor. First up is a coat of period black "wrinkle" paint;

 

 

My favorite look for a motor can:

 

 

I waited until the chassis was finished to bend up and install the buss bar to make sure it would clear the rear tire and fit inside the body.

 

 

The endbell is all taped up to protect it from the acid flux:

 

 

The endbell ready to go:

 

 

I'm using vintage 36D brushes, Camen brush springs (it takes 2 pair of double overhead to get 1 pair for this application), Camen purple brush spring insulation and 2 strands of TQ lead wire twisted together for shunt wires:

 

 

The slot in the end of the brushes needs to be opened up and deepened for the shunt wires and insulation. I use a screw slot file from Brownell's Inc.:

 

 

Assembly time.........

[dc-65x]

Okie dokie, here's the mighty mini beast:

 

 

I couldn't resist adding the comm cooler and highlighting it with Camen purple:

 

 

 

It sounds great on the Koford power supply and is super smooth,

 

 

I think it just makes the rolling chassis. Time to get it wired up. 

[Pablo]

   

 

[dc-65x]

I wired the car with REHco multi-nimble lead wire and used Faas 64P gears 9T-42T:

 

 

Here she is all put together..........

 

 

 

........and thankfully surviving it's first track test:

 

 

 

The motor is absolutely ballistic in this little car. On it's first test lap with the urethane tires I punched it coming out of the lead on. The tires spun, the motor screamed and both rear tires flew off the rims.    The little car careened out of the slot spinning wildly down the straight but safely came to a stop in the bank.    OK, that's a no go. I had the tires glued to the rims with the recommended flexible ZAP glue too.

 

The freshly cut vintage Riggen orange tires on an open car need glue.......and not just a light spray glue.

 

 

The orange tires are for displaying the car. I narrowed up some modern wheels/tires..............

 

 

..............and I'm going to add lead. This should be enough for the next track test  

 

 

 

 

[SpeedyNH]

that's excellent. i just hope that the right rear tire doesn't fod the comm. 

[Pablo]

  I hope nobody got hurt, my lord that's a lot of punch for a little car   

Is the cat OK? 

[Rob Voska]

I finally figured out how Rick does it. He has a time machine like Stewie on Family Guy

 

OIPMOWX6N97.jpg

 

He dials in 1969, goes back to SOCAL or East Coast, walks into a raceway and buys what he needs. "I'll take three of those, a dozen of those, some of those Muras, and some Jet Flags". Spends a couple hundred dollars, walks out with his treasures, goes behind the building, dials in the machine to 2020 and "Zoom" back to Oregon

 

Seriously, this 1/32 build blows me away. If anything ever tops this it's going to be something ………..

 

He was already from the future, went back in time, kicked *** at the races & then zoomed back into 2020!  He was a time traveler FROM the future! 

[dc-65x]

Pablo, the scream of the little beast is too much for our cats. Their turn marshal position at the lead on sits vacant when it hits the track:

 

 

Modern tires and 1/16" thick lead at the corners of the pans:

 

 

I found that turning the power supply down slightly from 12V to 10V makes the car simply very fast instead of crazy fast on my home track:

 

 

I could put a milder armature in to slow the car down a bit. But I didn't build it for my home track. I built it for a BIG track...........someday  

 

 

I will start working on a body on and a bit of air control next............

[dc-65x]

I have only collected a few Kirby bodies over the years and just 2 of them are 1/32 scale. Luckily one of them is this:

 

 

A Kirby Autocoast Ti-22. Just what the Doctor ordered for this project:

 

 

Now if I don't screw it up mounting and trimming it.......

 

[Martin]

Nice and easy does it.

 

You got this.

[Don Weaver]

 

 

C-can shorty (60).JPG

 

 

Nobody should have braid this clean ...

 

Don

[Pablo]

dc-65 invented "clean"

[SpeedyNH]

no braid juice or track glue, i guess. 

 

the Captain sure did build an excellent track. 

[dc-65x]

Thanks Martin
 
Yup, no braid juice and very little glue on my track. Most of the time I'm testing earlier era cars from the 1966 Rod & Custom series and older on urethane tires. 
 
Gery Gerding did build me a very nice track Steve. I can't think of a better use for a living room/dining room in your home.    It's been my dream for a long time...I'm very lucky:
 

Okie Dokie
 
The Arrivial:
 

 
The Man his own self, Gary Gerding:
 

 
Semi organized chaos begins:
 

 
Some assembly required:
 

 

 
All the supports standing at the ready:
 

 
Gary hard at work.....or sleeping
 

 
Getting close.....
 

 
One more section to go as Charlie the 18 pound lap cat wanders by:
 

 
DONE!
 

 
 
 

 
The big bank means I'm not wasting precious main straight length for a braking zone:
 

 
Drivers station with temporary supports for the power supply and "compter screen":
 

 
Gary used poker chips to designate controller hookup colors:
 

 
Not sure where the "compter screen" will end up. Maybe wall mounted:
 

 
WEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 

[Regis4446]

  

 

just dream

[dc-65x]

I dolled up the wheels a bit with some BWA Autohobbies Cobra Daytona Coupe repop wheel inserts:

 

 

I usually have bad experiences with paper thin Lexan bodies. But this time it worked out great:

 

 

I think it sits nice on the chassis:

 

 

Now I'll open up the cockpit, velocity stack openings and work on the air control:

 

 

 

[dc-65x]

For my air control I used a Slick 7 wing car air control kit:

 

 

I made a card stock template patterned after the 1970 NCC style rear spoiler and traced it onto the .005" Slick 7 Lexan wing car side dam:

 

 

The Mylar Slick 7 front air dam was trimmed down and a PdL style "anti-lanching device" for the radiator air vent hole is another piece of .005" Lexan. The velocity stacks are 2mm K&S aluminum tube and the interior is from the Kirby body kit:

 

 

Everything is ready for paint..........except I don't have any yet. I'll be using Pactra's RC spray lacquer and it supposed to arrive in about a week.

[dc-65x]

Hobbylinc finally got around to shipping my RC paint.  

 

Here's one version of the real Ti-22 as raced:

 

 

This build obviously isn't a scale version but I am painting mine white like the real car..............

 

 

..............the numbers will be 22 and, hopefully, silver lower body panels. They're not painted yet. I'm trying to save a screw up before I attempt painting them: