158 replies to this topic

[Pablo]

Parts so far:

-brand new Lancer 1/24 body

-decals and inserts

-a used Mabuchi can and EB with a silver wire EBD armature CCW at EB

-chassis style TBD but since it's a 4" WB and 3" wide at the skirt bottoms, I'm leaning toward a 67-ish jaildoor, all brass

 

 

EB has the usual "Mabuchi crack" but my favorite fix for that is being snugged up to a vintage Russkit or REHCO inline bracket    Motor "runs" but not well. Should be an easy blueprint. I love these "blind bushing" cans - they are lightweight, easy to work with, and the bushing comes off easily, making a correct size hole for an SKF ball bearing 

 

 

Instead of setting it aside for later, I'd like to find out what the arm is going to need. If it's not straight, or it needs to be sent off for professional TLC, I'd prefer to find out now. So out she comes ........

 

 

[Maximo]

Pablo,

 

Nice build coming up. Where did you get that body?

I have wanted to put together a Ford GT Mk4 for a long long time!

[Pablo]

Thanks David. All parts shown so far are customer supplied. All I know is it's a genuine Lancer.

 

Before I forget, at some point I'm going to need motor advice on Australian polarity, the way they wire their tracks (I've heard) is different. Or is that an old Pirate's Tale? I've laughed at the Coriolis Effect and earth's polarity shift jokes but this time I really do "need to know" LOL

 

First step, the brass pinion has to go. The jaws of a pinion remover won't fit. Out comes my vice.

The "Swiss Maneuver" simply crushes it until it falls off. No damage to anything except the pinion 

 

The notch in the shaft was already there and was somebody's attempt to grip the pinion better?

 

 

The positive brush looks OK but once I wiggled the neg brush out, it was bad - indicative of comm problems. 

I don't see an elliptical surface, rather crater-looking. Like it's been hitting something

 

 

I don't do these investigations to belittle anyone, but rather a means for those who want to learn about motor building.

Once the neg brush came out, it allowed me to test the arm spacing in the magnetic field. The arm was pinned fully towards the rear of the can, no slop at all, and lots of slop at the comm end.

 

Endbell was loose on the can but the EB bushing is within useable specs.

[Pablo]

Motor forensic science    Since the EB bushing felt fairly fresh, I took care to not gall it when jerking the arm shaft out.

So I hand sanded the gouge and it came out nice n smooth

 

 

Timing was as I suspected, a few degrees CCW

There was one phenolic above the comm, and zero spacers at the blind bushing.

The comm looks in good shape and the shaft is dead straight

 

 

I think the bad brush was just a bad brush. The mags have the right gap for the .513 arm but they aren't centered well - I may be able to tweak and make them work.

 

Bottom line for now is, I may be able to make this motor work nice without having to send anything out or major work.

No guarantees. I do have some concerns - the arm epoxy has some imperfections and I hope the can end of the shaft has enough meat to install an SKF.

 

Back to my Emott ......

[Tom Katsanis]

Hey Pablo I think that's an old wives tale about how tracks are wired in Australia I have a few cars that have traveled to the U.S & they have not needed any changes to run on any tracks.

[Bill from NH]

You could double-check your Aussie polarity questions by running them by Steve King.

[Pablo]

Thanks Tom, that answers my question 

 

The mission plan for this build started out as somewhat of a shelf queen, and now that has changed. Mostly regarding the motor. The blind bearing will be coming off the can and a vintage new SKF BB installed soon, etc. 

[Larry Horner]

I've never built one but I love the look of jaildoor chassis so nice choice Pablo! 

 

Also you made me learn something ... did you know the singular and plural of chassis is "chassis". Probably common knowledge to lots of you but I had to look it up.

[Isaac S.]

Doesn't look too bad, the can is very pretty. 

[Pablo]

Body color will be something like this

 

 

Meanwhile, the arm and mags are en-route to Havlicek to

 

-check arm for shorts

-touch up epoxy crater

-comm cut

-rebalance

-zap mags

 

At this point I can't say if that arm and those mags will be used. Maybe, maybe not, we will see

 

[Pablo]

Arm and mag report from Havlicek:

 

"Hi Pablo, got your arm and magnets.  The arm tests out fine, one pole is a few points higher than the other two, and that is just a result of the wire on that pole wrapping over the other two trying to fit it all on there...a common thing.  No shorts and the shaft is straight as you said.  I cleaned it up and recut the com only...balance seems OK as-is.  I plugged the places (2) where the epoxy chipped-off on the bottom, probably a result of it bubbling with too much hardener or heat when curing.  The epoxy pooled down there (probably was left standing on end while it was curing).  It looks like a home rewind that was sent out for balancing because of the type drill that was used.  It meters in the low-to mid .460 ohms and has very little timing advance, so it should be a good runner in a vintage motor.  Overall, it's a very nice artifact, wound by someone who knew what he was doing. Magnets are zapped, cleaned and degreased, ready to install.  They came up nicely to a little over 1000, around where the good Arcos would be, although I can't say if they are 16D Arcos"

 

Appears to have been money and time well spent! They should be arriving back here at the Ranch any day now 

 

I started looking at wheel combinations and possibilities today. This body is a big stout beauty and has giant wheel wells. The inserts are .575" OD. So she needs wheels that will support them. This is going to be a search challenge. I wish parts sellers would include proper measurements of the rim ID's!

 

Onward 

[Isaac S.]

I would bet those mags are Mura Magnum 44's if they are going to 1000 and usually ARCO's will have the shim. You would have to check to see if they are broken ARCO's once you get it back but I would bet Mura's because why de-shim a Super ARCO?

[Pablo]

Mags and arm arrived home. Next step - I'm hoping there is enough meat on the can side to fit into a vintage SKF ball bearing 

[rvec]

Where did you get the decals.  I sourced out of Europe and very expensive

Rich

[Pablo]

Owner supplied decals. I looked and they don't have any markings indicating who made them.

Maybe the owner can send you a PM

[MattD]

I think the decals came from neckcheese.

[Pablo]

Wheel solution was there the whole time, it just took a while to find it 

JK "Big Daddy" plastic rims are .600 OD and close to .560 ID. All four inserts will work perfectly

 

 

So I ordered two sets of JK T9B8W. They are 1/8 Wonder Rubber .820 OD. For fronts all I have to do is cut them to width. For rears I ordered a set of DML/B1 natural donuts. I'll remove the rubber, cut them to proper width, install the huge donuts, and trim to 5/8 by 7/8" OD. Easy day 

[rvec]

I think the decals came from neckcheese.

 

Thanks Matt. I will contact him before starting my next batch of GT40 MKIVs. I will be experimenting.  I will do a very, very light cast and reinforce with carbon fiber. Stay tuned for a post

[Pablo]

Carbon fiber reinforced waterslide decals? 

[Pablo]

I really want to install an SKF BB on this can, but before I rip the blind bearing out, I need to make sure it's going to work. I dug an exact same can with blind bushing out of my motor "drawers of horrors". I don't want to damage the customer's original can until I'm sure it will work  

 

[MattD]

Got this about the Ford GT decals:

 

seller is teresawulf on eBay for the MKIV decals and they came from the US, $8.50.

[rvec]

Thanks

[n.elmholt]

 

Thanks Matt. I will contact him before starting my next batch of GT40 MKIVs. I will be experimenting.  I will do a very, very light cast and reinforce with carbon fiber. Stay tuned for a post

Hi Rich, the decals came not from me. Actually I don't make any for the Mk.IV.

I mostly do decals for 60's F1 and Danish and Swedish GT cars as well as some CanAm Cars and also a few Sports Cars.
Niels

[MattD]

Neils my mistake,  I have been corrected!  See above.

[dc-65x]

Pablo, I don't mean to hijack your thread with more decal talk but I thought that as we are all fellow scratch builders I should make this decal source known. I apologize if it has already been mentioned and I missed it:

 

INDYCALS

 

They have lots of cool decals for different kinds of cars.

 

How is you blind bearing removal coming along Pablo?