158 replies to this topic

[Pablo]

Assembly for testing and quality control. Snug down the screws little by little to ensure the arm remains free. Perfect

 

 

Make sure the brushes insert with the markings "up". Install springs, oil BB and bushing, ready to test.

Apply positive wire to positive brush side. Start at minimum volts and check arm rotation direction. If it's correct, you are good and ready to break in. If rotation is wrong, swap brushes and wires, then continue. The arm is timed CCW, so it needs to rotate CCW

 

 

Mine were correct. Arm started spinning smoothly and immediately. This is the first good sign of a happy motor. I applied 3 V and watched the amps, started at .9 and steadily decreased to .75 within less than 1 minute. Sounds super smooth and temp is dead cold. After a couple more minutes she stabilized at .8 amps. This is classic behavior for a healthy motor.

 

Disconnect, a re-oil, then fed some power up to 5V. Amps about .8 again. Super smooth, absolutely cool, and sounds potent. So the test is a success. I removed the hardware, making sure to match everything.

 

Motor lessons over    Any questions?

Once the weather gets warm and dry, the can will be masked and ready for paint 

[Martin]

Schools out.

Do you have a color in mind ?

[Pablo]

Ferrari is on pause, so my attention turns to the Ford 

 

First light coat of Rustoleum "Hammered Black" baked on can to cure for a day or so.

JK rear tires soaked off the rims, ready for da big JK donuts  

 

[Isaac S.]

You say "rear tires soaked off" how did you do that? Hot water? I have a pair of wheels that if I took the tires off could work for what I need. Thanks. 

[Rotorranch]

Just soak them in a bottle of laquer thinner.

 

About 15-30 minutes. Then slide the tire off the rim.

 

Rotor

[Pablo]

Jay Guard method, post #12 here:

 

http://slotblog.net/...er-on-old-hubs/

[Bill from NH]

Lacquer thinner will also liquify the3M Super Weatherstrip Adhesive, aka "gorilla snot". When I was making wing car tires ,I would glue the hubs & let them dry. Then I would dip them in lacquer thinner so liquify the the glue so the donut slid on easily. Doing it this way eliminated having to tend with numerous glue strings/ If I was using flanged hubs, such as Riggen's or Champion's, I turned the flanges off first. 

[Pablo]

The decision of which pro-era chassis to base this build on has been made. dc-65x built one a while back:

 

http://slotblog.net/...oupesports-car/

 

And I made my own replica a few years ago:

 

http://slotblog.net/...7-arco-replica/

 

I still remember the track test at Greg Gilbert's garage, "The Nightmare". A small track with great power and some very tight flat turns. The car was very forgiving to drive, and Greg absolutely loved it 

 

Huge JK donuts given rough trim, final target is 7/8" OD

 

 

Can gets a second coat of "Hammered" paint as soon as we get an indian summer day.

[Pablo]

Rim ID is .560; insert OD is about .580", so they need some shaving 

 

Holes on the inserts are 2mm. My Hudy threaded gizmo is 1/8. Since the knockoffs will cover the holes in the end anyway, I'm going to punch the holes out to .125" 

 

 

Trimmed some width flash and turned down on the Hudy to an actual .550 to allow room for some glue

 

 

 

 

 

[Howie Ursaner]

It's an honor for me to have my chassis design from 1967 chosen for this great build !

Thank you !

[Pablo]

Thanks Howie, the honor is all mine!  

 

Tamiya XF-6 copper acrylic, several mist coats at low pressure

 

 

Rear knockoffs snugged up with short pieces of 1/8 threaded axles, nutted inside. Fronts will simply be glued to the inserts. Yes I know it's overbuilt, and yes there is a small rotating weight penalty. I doubt it will slow this beast down one iota

 

 

[Pablo]

After 2 baked coats of "Hammered" paint, can was hard and dry but not much on the "hammered" effect.

Don't really know why. I gave it a final baked coat of industrial "High Performance Enamel". It came out semi-flat and I considered clear coating but thought I better stop. It's dry it's hard it worked and I'm done. Buttoned it back up, oiled it and tested. Perfect.

 

Fronts finished, .250 X .785" OD

 

[Martin]

Nothing wrong with semi-flat black, looks great.

[Pablo]

New 48P 7T steel Sonic pinion soldered on. I see some oxidation cooties on the springs, I'll go clean those up 

 

[Pablo]

My attention turns to the motor bracket, a genuine Russkit.

I picked the best of the few I have remaining from a batch gifted by a buddy 15 years ago.

 

I remember sitting on a wood bench outside a pet-friendly motel in Iuka, Mississippi during Hurricane Katrina evacuation, polishing them with a cordless Dremel and a carbon wire wheel. This is one of the last of them.

 

The sharp nubbies were shaved off. After a couple tweaks, it is true and ready to become my next Ursaner replica bracket. Bracing will be almost the same as my first Ursaner (.039 wires and .063 rod)

 

 

 

I found a Dynamic 752 bushing gizmo on eBay and it will arrive in a few days 

[Pablo]

Wire braces done. I made very slight upward turns on the lower one to make nests for the "U" brace at the bottoms.

I used my "Russkit rod curler" to make the rear brace - a half inch socket with a notch. Works perfect every time 

 

 

Not much more to do here until the Dynamic bushings arrive .....

[Pablo]

Front axle tube, front and rear axles, "Pablo" emblem, and rod rails ready. All rods hand sanded with 2,000 grit to remove any cooties, checked for straightness on a dial indicator, ends squared up and champhered, wiped clean with alcohol, and bent up 90 degrees. Both axles cut to exacting size and polished

 

[Pablo]

The genuine Lancer Ford MK IV GT40 body is in perfect condition and hardly yellowed at all

 

 

But an aged yellowed body can be improved by sunlight. As slow as I build, this body is going to sit somewhere anyway. May as well sit on a south facing windowsill. Doesn't cost anything and it can't hurt 

 

 

Dynamic bushing gizmos arrived today, Part # 752

 

 

But they are totally different than the ones I used before, so I'm on "Pause" until I figure this out 

These are what Capt. Rick used

 

 

So we shall see. Thank goodness I have smart friends 

[slotcarone]

So the bushings you have look like the newer design with the oil reservoir. Should actually be lighter with the shorter bearing surface and the hollow tube/spacer. I have never seen that design before either. Build on Pablo!

[Pablo]

Just for the record, let me get some of my facts correct:

 

-the original car rear bracket "U" brace was wire, not rod. dc-65x build thread confirms it. So my 1/2" socket trick won't work. I made a new one from .047 and my educated meaty fingers

 

-Dynamic part numbers are NOT to be trusted. Some builders already knew that. I didn't until now. They would "update" with a new part and not change the #. In this case, I went to eBay to buy Dynamic part #752 and they turned out to be wrong. Nice bushings, maybe I'll use them on a future build. But they are wrong for a Howie replica. I found the korrect ones and they will be here soon .......

 

Onward .......

 

-

[Pablo]

Just returned from a five day pet sitting/house sitting/fishing trip to find the correct bushing gizmos have arrived.

The house had an excellent supply of videos and I watched "Ford vs. Ferrari" 3 times 

 

I checked on the body in the windowsill and I swear it is looking clearer. The windshield glue for the wheel inserts also arrived.

After 5 days of caring for a house, 2 dogs, 2 cats I'm glad to be home 

[mike1972chev]

Saw it at the theater when it came out opening weekend.

 

FAVORITE scene: When Ken Miles is "modifying" the deck lid on the Cobra to pass tech had me on the floor of the cinema !!    

 

Welcome back... Build on Mr. Pablo...... 

[Pablo]

My favorite is Shelby handing the "windshield-breaking" open end wrench to Phil and saying "frame that" 

[Pablo]

Dynamic bushings wire wheeled clean, ready for acid and solder. Distance between bracket and end of bushings is .200" so I prepped a length of tube, Sharpie dyed and marked

 

 

 

[Pablo]

Bushings n whatnot all secured, jigged and soldered. Yes, Bunky, the solder wicked out all the way to the ends of the tubes    Steel washers will go on later

 

 

Alignment verified good in all directions, then I installed the jig motor and removed the inner retainers to make room for the .047 wire "gear guard" brace. Elevated .032 above ground zero and tacked in