158 replies to this topic

[Pablo]

The body has sat on a south facing windowsill for 2 weeks getting afternoon sunlight. Somebody mentioned this trick here on Slotblog and I caught on. Does it work? You be the judge.

 

13 Feb

 

 

27 Feb

 

 

It's going to be some time before the car is done, so the body goes right back to the same spot 

[MattD]

Definite improvement

[Bill Breck]

Body looks much better. Did you change which side was facing the window (front, back, left, right) or did you leave it in one position?

[Pablo]

I've been flipping it and turning it every now and then. Today I turned it turtle. I don't think it's an exact science, but it's working.

Didn't cost me a dime, and a yellowed body has to sit somewhere, may as well be a windowsill --

[Pablo]

Rear inserts glued using the dc-65x method - Permatex 81730 Windshield and Glass Sealant. Works like a charm

 

[Pablo]

Ready for main rails

 

 

 

 

[Pablo]

Washers on, piece of cake. Gave the works a little gentle wet reaming with water. They pass the "axle falls through under it's own weight" test 

 

 

 

[Pablo]

Drop arm upstop/rail anti-spreader up front, 3/32 drop arm hinge with anti-spreader amidships. Just like Howie done it. Only my hinge pin is a slightly oversized (.065" OD) hypodermic stainless steel tube

 

[Pablo]

Twin .025 thick 1/4" pans sized, wet sanded, and flattened

 

 

Now it's starting to look like an Ursaner 

 

[dc-65x]

Now it's starting to look like an Ursaner  

 
Those make the "look" of Howie's chassis for sure. 

[Pablo]

I ran out of new (untrimmed shaft) Cox quickchange flags. If anybody out there has one, could you pretty please give me a measurement from deck to top of shaft? I need it to know what height to cut the tube, thanks!

 

Went to grab the body from the windowsill to determine GL. It sure seems to get more clear as time goes by. GL shall be 3/4" 

 

[Martin]

Let me check one more for you. This one is .367"

 

O.K. I checked a couple. On average they are .375"

 

[Rotorranch]

I concur with Martin, all the new ones I measured were around 0.370-0.375 in.

 

Rotor

[Pablo]

Thanks, that works for me 

 

I'm finding myself wishing I'd included more measurement details on this build in my first Ursaner thread. I test bent rod pieces around different things for the one-piece multi-bend drop arm gizmo. The best was a chainsaw file that is .212" OD

 

 

Deck height of a Cox Quickchange flag is .125" so my jig bolt has a dummy .125" nut with a 10 thou spacer on top just for insurance. Tube length is .390" but this will vary according to the body used. The Ford GT has plenty of room

 

[Bill from NH]

The next time you might need one, check the jewelry making departments of stores for jump ring mandrels. I got a pair for $3 or $4 at Joanne's Fabric for small bends 1-10 MM. Essentially, they're a steel rod with varying diameters, some are tapered, mine are stepped. 

[Pablo]

Rods prepped for drop arm. Straightness checked, hand sanded with 2,000 grit and wiped clean

 

 

First 2 sets of rails tacked, then checked for tilt and true

 

 

Mark Donohue interior is done and en-route from Jersey to Mississippi.

 

 

 

 

 

[Pablo]

Drop arm down stop set to give an amount of movement I consider prudent. Howie's used a lot more - back in the day I guess they needed it 

 

 

Done - rails flooded with 60/40 and flatter than a French Pancake 

 

[Pablo]

One piece 3/32 hinge tubes 1.7" long and soldered to the .025 pan strips. It's going to vary, of course, from body to body. I made oil ports up top

 

 

[dc-65x]

Ah........."blow holes"!      The chassis we make aren't going to be torn apart for parts after the next race. They will be sticking around for awhile. Getting oil in and any crap-O-la out of hinges makes sense to me.

[Pablo]

Thar she blows, Captain, broad on the 'larboard bow. Away the boats! 

Between my previous build, the dc-65x build, and the Morrissey build, not one mention of the slight bend of the hinge pins in order to have them lay 1/16 above ground zero and flat. I blame myself, rookie mistake.

 

Make slight bends at the Sharpie mark on the left pin, before soldering on the pin tubes. Otherwise they end up like the ones on the right, and go straight into the "round file" (trash can) 

 

[Pablo]

Recovered from the hinge pin mistake, and stopped for the night with a cleanup. Time for a big sandwich 

 

[Martin]

Looking great, Impressed you powered through  

[Pablo]

Thanks Martin, no big deal other than my pride hurt LOL I made four new pin assemblies and moved on. Nothing is ever simple here at The Wolcott Ranch and Petting Zoo anyway, so it's normal 

 

The Lancer Ford GT40 MK IV shell sitting in the windowsill beckons me "Don't screw me up, Pablo" LOL

 

Pan management architecture is done. We have a hair of droop and .032 of lift at outer edges. More lift than it really needs but it is a replica so I have to honor the original chassis which had 3/32! To me, that's a mile. So I compromised and call it "artistic license"  

 

Chassis is clean and harnessed but free in the jig, drop arm is in place, ready to be soldered. Hakko FX601 is on full heat, and here we go for a "moment of truth". Should be a piece of cake 

 

[Martin]

I know this is a Howie replica and you mention "I have to honor the original chassis" I went back through the start of this build. 

Did not see a pic of the original chassis you are replicating, I must of skipped over it ?

[Pablo]

Good question, Martin. See my post #58 in this thread. It has links to both the dc-65x build, with photos of the magazine articles, and my copycat build. You could call me a "double copy-cat" LOL

 

I'm always real careful to give credit to those who make my work possible. I'm not an innovator, just copying the works of the masters