158 replies to this topic

[Bill from NH]

They're probably still being cast in the same molds that were used when I stopped using them in 1969 & began using Parma's brass washers.

[Pablo]

Never give up. "FILL THE TANK! Am I on fire?"

 

Ford vs Ferrari | Shelby's Last Race | "Am I on fire" - YouTube

 

All bad axle spacers are gone. I have some .060 Sonic spacers on order for the front.

The rear is all set, each side has a steel / (true) plastic / steel spacer sandwich

 

 

New looking 31T Cox crown is true. The works pass the (second) drivetrain test 100%. Now we're cooking

 

 

Flag got a Chicagoland .032 brass spacer 

[Pablo]

Multiple coats of Fasyellow at 35 PSI, backed with multiple coats of Ralph Thorne white. Painted on Thursday but my second COVID vaccination side-effects hit me like a train so I haven't had the energy until now to post it. I expect to be back to normal tomorrow.

 

Ignore the Sharpie dots, they are for interior alignment and will be removed. I haven't even had the energy to remove a few holidays around the window edges. But I will, with Microbrushes and dried acrylic remover

 

[Pablo]

All four tail lights on the GT40 MK IV are red. I custom made a punch gizmo to form masking holes. Chucked a brass tube piece into my "lathe", sharpened one end and flattened the other. Smacked it with a hammer, worked like a charm. Perfect .125" holes in blue tape

 

 

Fasred sprayed at 20 PSI 

 

 

I have a chrome pen on order to outline them 

[Pablo]

Sharpie outlines done. Not my best skill for sure. Body is now ready for (outside) waterslide decals

 

[Pablo]

Slick 7 .063 1/8" axle spacers arrived, fronts are all set

 

[Pablo]

The (outside) waterslide laser-printed decals on this body are going to be tricky. I have my Micro Set and Micro Sol at the ready and I did some experiments so I know what to expect

 

 

I don't know why, but the Micro Set didn't seem to improve any of my tests. Plain water worked fine but after the water dried Micro Sol did seem to be an improvement. Keeping in mind Mississippi tap water is some of the purest, softest, most chemical free, quality water in the world. Out here, small puddles along the highways have naturally occurring bass and bream. There is a reason for that.

 

My plan is to start with the simplest of the decals (competition stripes) and work my way up to the 4" long ones on the side panels last. Here goes ........

 

 

[Pablo]

I used Micro Set to etch and clean the surface first, wiped it clean so as to not allow it to puddle up.

 

Then water only on the decal, let it dry, followed by Micro Sol. Worked fine. It followed the contour of the "spoiler" really nice

 

[dc-65x]

The red stuff is used to almost melt the decal to conform to very irregular surfaces. I rarely use it unless I absolutely have to.

[Pablo]

Understood. I'll keep working with it. The Sol sure worked well on that 100 degree bend on the rear 

All the advice you gave me worked fine 

[Pablo]

Rick, upon your continued encouragement I tried the Set on the roof section of stripes. I don't know why it didn't perform well in my tests. Maybe because I tested on PVC and this actual body is butyrate. In any event, I'm a believer now. This is exactly as per your instructions with the Set and it worked perfect

 

 

Now if I could just find a helper with steady Sharpie hands ... 

[dc-65x]

I'm glad it's working for you Pablo. Here's something else that helps me. After you have the decal placed and you've blotted the water out......gently........carefully.......wipe it down with a dry, short bristle paint brush like this (even a bit shorter bristles would be better):

 

 

Of course for that stripe you'd go longways with the stripe and not across it.

 

For me, I think it helps marry the decal down to the butyrate surface.........or I just like doing it.  

 

Anyway, it does work for me.

[Isaac S.]

I do that too with a very short square brush. It helps me get it straight and secure. 

[Pablo]

Yes that's the type brush I'm using, thanks. It's Hip to be Square.

 

dc-65x said "marry" LOL  I'll "Sally Forth" in a "smartly manner" (I hope)  

[Pablo]

Laser decals are done. Micro Set helped a lot, thanks to dc-65x's coaching 

The chrome pen for the door knobs and tail lights will arrive in a few days, and the Warmack mirrors are ready to go.

 

At this point I'll disclose the flaws - this body had multiple challenges for me.

 

-The right front wheel well area has a small area where the yellow paint didn't adhere, despite my etching the insides with 0000 steel wool. I don't know why it happened. This cannot be fixed

 

 

-I wish I had not used any Sharpie marks for the details at all. Not my best skill in the first place. Normally Sharpie marks clean off easily with Isopropyl Alcohol but this body didn't work well in that respect. It also clouded some of the clear areas and makes the front of the body look like 12 hours into the 24 hour race. So I own that 

 

 

The #2 roundrel on right side came off the decal sheet with a flaw and I fixed it with a patch of white decal the best I could 

 

 

Looking at photos online of GT 40's that were actually raced, I see all sorts of emergency fixes - duct tape, etc. So it makes me feel a little better.

 

In the end, I found a solution to all my flaws. One that will both satisfy the sick visual thrill of a car that has been thrashed in the rigors of Le Mans, and the pristine beauty of a brand new race car on the starting line. The best of both worlds, if you will. To be revealed soon ........

 

 

[Isaac S.]

You found a solution but lighter fluid will take off sharpie also without damaging the body. I am usually able to just get a q-tip wet and it will rub right off. 

[Bill from NH]

I've also used Isaac's lighter fluid on a Q-tip method. For minor smugges I use a wooden toothpick dipped in lighter fluid. I've found that lighter fluid doesn't always work with other brands of permanent markers. The neatness of your lines will depend upon how clean they were made on the body's mold.

[Don Weaver]

Try using a straight edge (6" ruler, .032 x 1/4 brass, etc.) getting as close as you can or slightly into the curves and then just fill in the remaining area.  It will really improve the overall appearance of the outling.  Crisp, straight lines seem to hide flaws around the curved areas.

 

I, too, use lighter fluid with either q-tips or tooth picks.  Tooth picks with lighter fluid also work well in removing small areas where the paint has leaked under the masking (especially when the paint hasn't fully dried).

 

Don

[dc-65x]

Hi Pablo
 

Normally Sharpie marks clean off easily with Isopropyl Alcohol but this body didn't work well in that respect.

Unfortunately 50 year old butyrate can be more problematic in this regard than Lexan or even PETG. Results can even vary between different butyrate bodies.  

[Pablo]

Thanks Rick for understanding the butyrate blemish problem - I did the best I could 

 

One last look at the Noose interior before it disappears under the canopy 

 

 

Warmack mirrors secured with Windshield Sealant worked super

 

 

 

All that remains to make the body complete is the chrome pen for the tail lights .......

[Martin]

I have used chrome pens for some time now, just a note of caution. Mine are lacquer base and will melt most other paints. Try and stay off your red. Or test first on something you do not care about.

Next time try painting the chrome first then the red candy on top leaving a chrome bezel. They work great for mirrors too.

Sorry I am a little late to this detailing party.

[Pablo]

Thanks, I'll do that. And, no, you're not late - the pen hasn't arrived yet

[Pablo]

Still waiting for the chrome pen to arrive for making rings around the taillights 

 

I was surfing "Ford GT 40 MK IV" on the net and found a painted JK body for sale through PCH. Holy Cow! I ordered one and it's absolutely mind blowing perfect! Now the owner can swap between a lightweight perfectly painted and detailed body, and an antique. The best of both worlds

 

 

The build is still in progress. The JK body will get a Noose painted right side driver body. In the end, both bodies will be interchangeable

 

 

[Bill from NH]

In the photo, the JK appears to be wider. Will that be a mounting issue?

[W. J. Dougherty]

Im guessing thats why he built the brass wire chassis. Im sure the JK body is for Flexi cars...