98 replies to this topic

[Mark Onofri]

Granted the Billy boy Motors might be c can's but, the two that I showed are definitely D cans.

[Bill from NH]

I had Billy Boy something in the past, but I forget what. It might have just been braid or guides. Looking at the side of these two motors doesn't tell me much of anything. I'd have to have straight-on photos of both the endbell &  the can end.to make a positive determination what it is. If I play a game of proportions with the photos you posted, it looks like a C-can.  Besides, $5.98 looks like too much money to pay for a unbalanced D-can motor.

[Mark Onofri]

I think in the History Section, there's a whole thread on cobra. That was one of their products(billy boy). Maybe we should all reread that thread, and start all over. No seriously, the two Motors that I posted the Chrome one, and the chromeless one , they are without a doubt 16D's. BillNH, I hope that you and Isaac concur on that.

[Bill from NH]

Mark, I looked through your posts & didn't see the motors you mentioned in post  #78. Post them again & we'll be able to tell you what the are. Where did you get the info that Billy Boy was a label used by Cobra? I didn't know that.

[Mark Onofri]

The photos are 13 posts up from the bottom of page 3. Top right,RTR champion can(mid 80's). Bottom right,unknown. Top left,RTR. Centre left,unknown. Bottom left,mural 12-c (arm) I put that last Armature in there show to the difference in stack length. No special Optics, no trick photography, well I'm lucky I typed this paragraph without erasing it 3 times. I don't know if the center Armature is one that someone took some segments off of a 16-D when they were rewinding it, or became that way from the factory. It's marginally longer than a 12-C, and far shorter then a 16-D.

[Mark Onofri]

Bill N H, there's another blog about slot cars, somehow I wound up on that. But as I stated earlier, in the History Section of slotblog there's a whole thread on cobra, and cobra by products. Billy boy was one of their by products.

[Bill from NH]

Mark, you lost me on this one. Page 3 of what? The Slot Car History forum? I checked that & no.... There are thousands of threads on here, too many to be looking for a needle in a haystack. Post a link here to whatever you're looking at. If you just want to see photos of 16 D motors, go to the can finder pages in the Independent Scratchbuilder Forum. One of them has numerous photos of Mura, Champion, & Parma 16D motors in addition to all sorts of can sketches.

[Mark Onofri]

I've been trying for about 20 minutes to download a photo. I'm close to either a) succeeding, or b) smashing this phone into little pieces. It's 89° here so I'm going to take advantage of the weather while it lasts for 5 minutes before it snows. Rest assured I will get back to you.

[Bill from NH]

Sorry to break the news, but ALL French arms were wound and manufactured by Mura.

 

No. French was a brand name used by Tradeship.  Tradeship use to wind some (maybe all?) of the "silver wire" arms in Japan for Mura & balance them too. They had their own balancer either in Japan or CA, maybe both. This info comes from PDL's posts in the "Independent Scratchbuilder" forum on here. under the Can Spotters Guide. 

 

I have a French 27S arm I ran in my Cuc. It may still be around, but the Cuc doesn't currently have a motor. 

[Isaac S.]

Bill, read this description. https://www.electric...ure-p-3305.html

 

I've also heard this same thing from PDL. French was the Tradeship motor parts seller and had close ties (the arms had Tradeship comm's and such) but they were wound by Mura. 

[Mark Onofri]

Is the colour of the wire positive identification? Or is it whatever was cheapest that day what's the wire that they used?

[Isaac S.]

Well, if it's green and red. it's probably stock Mabuchi leads. They do represent positive and negative but these don't always matter on a stock motor. 

[Bill from NH]

Different wire manufacturers use different colored insulation. Some manufacturers have several different insulation types for different temperature ratings depending upon the wire's intended use. Color isn't positive identification of anything unless you know who manufactured the wire & what the rating of their insulations are. A color change  doesn't necessarily mean anything. It's whatever wire a manufacturer could buy in the gage & insulation temperature range at the time they needed it.

[Mark Onofri]

I'm with you on that BillNH. Whatever is on sale, that's what's going in there. Isaac I was talking about the Armature wire, the lead wires they can be both the same color who knows? I almost successfully posted a photo. Bill the photo of the armatures & cans is in this thread. Just hit the rewind and you'll find it.

[Bill from NH]

Mark, is this the photo you're talking about? If so, what am I supposed to look at it for?

 

 

 

 

 

 

This was in my neighborhood earlier this summer.

 

[Isaac S.]

Sorry, Mark. That makes sense. I was slightly confused about why you were asking. 

[Mark Onofri]

Daily history 5/18/12, mostly on Cobra chassis, yes that's the photo. At least you don't have Yeti barbecuing taradactial wings in your backyard. There's a thread here on dyna rewinds where they make a reference to removing laminations from the Armature stack. I'm wondering if that is what happened here.

[Mark Onofri]

Oh yeah now I remember the question. Do we all agree that those are some form of 16s and not C-cans?

[Bill from NH]

The two in that photo are, te 3rd one probably is, Dyna-Rewind was probably only using stock Mabuchi arms so they removed some laminations to make a shorter stack. You don't have to do that today. Motor manufacturers order whatever length stacks they want from the orient. Most times these arms come already wound, but they could be blank The home rewinder today may still be adding & removing laminations depending upon what they are doing. American made arms can be hard to find, but some are out there.

[Mark Onofri]

I think something got lost in the translation of the first sentence of your reply Bill. The top Armature is the one that came out of the Chrome can on top in the photo. No doubt a 16d. The bottom armature is a 12 C. It is the Center Armature(in photo) that is in question. That came out of the cruddy looking can that has two round holes. Also highly unlikely to be anything but a 16-D. Do we all agree on this?

[Bill from NH]

The photo has 3 arms, but only 2 can, what am I supposed to say? Yes that 2nd can is the one Isaac identified as a Mura Magnum. Those are D-cans,

 

You can't always tell the type of can a particular arm came out of just by looking at the arm. Mura put many 26D arms in D-cans using thinner magnets. Not a big seller in the US, but they were popular in Europe. Those D-cans may have been short cans too. I don't recall. Have we put this thread to bed? 

[Mark Onofri]

I'm okay with that,pin it? No one ever raced magnums where I used to race, so they're totally alien to me. I would like to thank you and Isaac. It's been fun hasn't it? Now about those Yeti.

[Bill from NH]

I've only seen Magnums & Short Magnums in pictures. Except for my production racing cars, all my racing started in 1970 with C-cans in scratchbuilt chassis. Yeti is a word used to describe a lot of different things, either rightly or wrongly. Let's start a new thread. for me Yeti is the name of scale racing products made by a guy in the midwest named Jim Bandes. It's also a line of cups, bikes, & water coolers.

[Mark Onofri]

Abominable Snowman, Bigfoot, Yeti. Shall we start a Yeti appreciation thread? The chassis not the creature. They are nice chassis. Picked one up with two different sets of pans, almost have enough for two cars. Even give you a little bit of solder. Okay I'm done.