43 replies to this topic

[Martin]

John was asking so thanks Bill, Jay for your comments. 1/8" axles are a great option, there maybe a better selection of 1/8" wheels and tires in 7/8" O.D. ?

 

I have an accurate lathe and it easier for me to ream 3/32" bushings to 1/8" .

 

Options I have on hand are .124"- 1245"- .1247" and .125" so I can fit a given axle to my liking.

[pn6]

Martin that tooling is second to none!

Larry Santa didnt bring you a 3D printer for Christmas?

[Martin]

I am afraid that is not going to happen Paul.

The chassis are printed with a Multi Jet Fusion printer, and they are big money, starting at $100,000 for an entry level and can cost over $600,000.

Super high precision and no shrinkage.

 

We may try a local printer print a chassis in the tough resin, but I predict that that some dimensions may change. I did have him print some gears and they were not usable because of shrinkage.

[Larry Horner]

While I may still use MJF for precision parts, I do still want to get my own resin printer. Paul, I think I've asked you this before but what model did you end up buying? I also noticed that PLA printers have way higher accuracy these days.

[pn6]

I have an Elegoo Mars 4. I tried some tougher resin (not the Tough they advertised) and found it to be a bit more flexible so I guess that would make it more durable.

Yes Ive heard the Bambu printers are really good!

[Martin]

Chipping away at the StarShip SideWinder soldering fixture. Now with its .040" base and the 3/16 top plate screwed and pinned together. Next step is to drill the location for the plumber hinge then I can cut the angles on the sides. Leaving the side parallel for now as it is the best way to hold in the mill for drilling. 

 

[Larry Horner]

Well it takes awhile to get a shipment from the Netherlands but my new chassis finally arrived and I have a finished roller ready for viewing. I also happen to have an extra Lola T70 body lying around which fits this guy perfectly. But it the mean time, here are some beauty queen shots.

 

 

 

 

[Larry Horner]

more...

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[Martin]

Inspiring Larry.

I am almost done with my setup fixture so I can get my version done too. I hope it looks as good as this.

[Jaeger Team]

Excellent work, Larry! It manages to combine the present with the past with great attention to detail.

[Mark Onofri]

I've discussed this with Martin before but, any chance of making some 16D endbells ? The old style ones.

[Larry Horner]

Well anything is possible but you can still buy vintage Champion endbells from Professor Motor. Also, while it won't be vintage, a ProSlot 16D endbell can be used with most vintage cans. Can you be a bit more specific about what kind of 16D endbell you are wanting?

[Bill from NH]

Parma 16D endbells also fit many vintage 16D cans.

[Martin]

Not proofed out yet, but here is the soldering jig holding the parts in there correct location. 

Plumber hinge rail set in place between pins with air gap to 3D printed chassis.

Bite bar set between pins ready for fab.

 

 

Now, hopefully  the hot soldering iron never gets close to the printed chassis. On ward.

 

 

 

[Mark Onofri]

I know that a 1/32 is not a option but.....

[Martin]

Hey Mark it has a 3 & 7/8" wheelbase and with narrower tires (keeping it to under 3'') you could make a 1/32 scale stock car?

When we come up for air I will get you one to test that suggestion. 

Do you have any 1/32 stock car bodies? what is the width ?and w.b.?

[pn6]

Any Updates??

[Martin]

For me work on 1/1 cars is taking up a lot of my time, but your "fiddling with ideas" post has got me thinking I need to finish what we started.

 

So thanks Paul for the kick in the pants.

[pn6]

I know how it is when there are a bunch of projects going at once. Mine have all been buttoned up except for this one and that one and the other one. I guess its better than being bored!!