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Strombecker TC32

Started by Jaeger Team , Jan 14 2026 04:28 AM

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#1 Jaeger Team

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Posted 14 January 2026 - 04:28 AM

My buddy Dario Gueci, one of the finest collectors in Italy, gifted me this motor.

According to PdL, it is a "STROMBECKER TC32: sized like a Mabuchi FT16D. Pinion on the can side. Introduced in 1966 for the new 1/32 scale Strombecker kits using the two-piece brass chassis. Chrome-plated can, green wire on armature, royal blue endbell marked "Strombecker." The endbell is retained by four tabs stamped in the one-piece drawn can, folded in cavities molded on the Bakelite endbell. 1967 'Hemi 300' versions have red endbells and hotter armature specification with larger orange wire and were never sold in the 1966-only boxed kits, only in bagged kits or semi-RTR models.

 

Motor discontinued by late 1967 but still sold until the end of 1968 from existing inventories.

I will try to process it in a more performing motor...

 

Screenshot_2026-01-14-09-25-13-070_com.miui.gallery-edit.jpg


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Maurizio Salerno



#2 Jaeger Team

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Posted 15 January 2026 - 04:08 AM

Since I plan to replace the endbell with a more reliable one, I first cut off the useless tabs...

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#3 Jaeger Team

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Posted 15 January 2026 - 04:13 AM

Now it is necessary to equalize the edge of the can which is asymmetrical at this point...

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#4 Jaeger Team

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Posted 15 January 2026 - 10:30 AM

the can is now square and the holes to fix the endbell are done...

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#5 Larry Horner

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Posted 15 January 2026 - 12:59 PM

Fun project Maurizio! Back in the day, I put Hemi 300 into my Dynamic Bandit and it was a real screamer ... loved that motor. I guess you'll be avoiding the issue if you replace the end-bell but the big problem for me was the wacky Strombecker brushes.


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#6 Jaeger Team

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Posted 15 January 2026 - 04:47 PM

Alright, I've gathered some parts for this project: the can's been straightened and a bearing installed; Im torn between two endbells one is an original Champion, the other a modern 3D-printed repro. Got brush holders in both 36D and 26D sizes on hand, and of course, I'm sticking with genuine Champion magnets. As for the armatures, I've advanced the timing the old-school way: by forcing the commutator and locking it all in place with dental floss and a good dollop of epoxy, as well as the entire winding has been epoxied, it only remains to do the static balancing..

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#7 Jaeger Team

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Posted 19 January 2026 - 07:41 AM

...now I'm going to finalize the endbell...
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#8 Jaeger Team

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Posted 19 January 2026 - 07:45 AM

...now I'm going to finalize the endbell...

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#9 Jaeger Team

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Posted 19 January 2026 - 07:46 AM

...everything well aligned and a touch of solder..

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#10 Jaeger Team

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Posted 19 January 2026 - 07:50 AM

..endbell done...

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#11 Mark Onofri

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Posted 19 January 2026 - 12:00 PM

Who makes the 3d re- pos ? I need a lot of them for some Champion 16d's.

#12 Jaeger Team

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Posted 19 January 2026 - 03:54 PM

Who makes the 3d re- pos ? I need a lot of them for some Champion 16d's.

Who makes the 3d re- pos ? I need a lot of them for some Champion 16d's.


This was produced by John Avlicek...
Maurizio Salerno

#13 Jaeger Team

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Posted 19 January 2026 - 03:57 PM

Who makes the 3d re- pos ? I need a lot of them for some Champion 16d's.

Who makes the 3d re- pos ? I need a lot of them for some Champion 16d's.


This was produced by John Havlicek...

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#14 Jaeger Team

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Posted 23 January 2026 - 01:17 PM

This old U-shaped shim from - I guess - the 507R motor didn't properly center the magnets due to the pressure of the single retaining spring, so I thought it'd be better to glue the magnets to the shim first...
I'll also cut the endbell to increase ventilation inside...

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#15 Bill from NH

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Posted 23 January 2026 - 04:05 PM

You could also use individual shims behind each magnet. Some will cut the "ears" off that Champion 1-piece shim & use them. 


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#16 John Luongo

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Posted 23 January 2026 - 05:13 PM

years ago, after straightening a can, i would make masking tape shims behind the magnets to tighten the bore a few thousants prior to align boring the magnets. seemed to make a smoother, more responsive motor.


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#17 SpeedyNH

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Posted 24 January 2026 - 07:49 AM

in the 60's i used to cut pieces from a Tang jar lid to make magnet shims. 


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#18 Bill from NH

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Posted 24 January 2026 - 08:22 AM

I've seen black electrical tape used too. I thought metal shims were the best material, but apparently not always.


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Bill Fernald
 
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#19 Jaeger Team

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Posted 24 January 2026 - 05:12 PM

...with this two-piece shim Champion later resolved the centering problem but I'm not sure I want to use it for this build, rather I would reserve it for a future project that involves the use of a Champion can...

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#20 Bill from NH

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Posted 24 January 2026 - 07:04 PM

Just compare the size of your can hole to the diameter of the arm you are using. I never ran unlimited 16D size motors, but I did C-cans for about 20 years. With them, we ran a.010" clearance on each side. (.510" arms in a .530" hole)


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Bill Fernald
 
I intend to live forever!  So far, so good.  :laugh2:  :laugh2: 

#21 Jaeger Team

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Posted 29 January 2026 - 05:01 PM

Since I don't know yet if this motor will be mounted as an endbell drive or a can drive, I marked and drilled two holes on the can...
......later I will decide how to insert and solder the nuts given the tricky shape of the can in those points...

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#22 Bill from NH

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Posted 29 January 2026 - 08:33 PM

Put aluminum screws in the holes from the outside of the can, screw down brass or steel nuts on the screws from inside the can & tighten them. Apply solder & flux to the nuts & unscrew the aluminum screws.


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Bill Fernald
 
I intend to live forever!  So far, so good.  :laugh2:  :laugh2: 

#23 Jaeger Team

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Posted 31 January 2026 - 05:11 AM

To overcome the obstacle of this rounded shape at the bottom of the can I found these nuts (left) and machined them (right) with my poor man's hand lathe...

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#24 Jaeger Team

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Posted 31 January 2026 - 11:22 AM

...nut's inserts done...

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#25 Jaeger Team

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Posted 17 February 2026 - 04:30 AM

...I finally received this arm from my mate Salvo Guarnaccia's balancing department...
I have these measurements:
- arm .516
- magnet hole .536
...onward!

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