243 replies to this topic

[TSR]

Rick,

Once done, please let us know how it went...

This is a very nice car, well built. Too bad we don't know by whom, but it is a definitely not an amateur job.

[dc-65x]

Will do Phillippe.

 

SteveO has studied the pictures and feels it is Pro built as well. He also has an idea of who built it.

 

There is a repair to the pan stop rod (is that called a "bite bar"?). It has been resoldered at the lower joint in the photo and is now crooked.

 

The motor and it's associated braces could also be "customer installed". But all in all it's a cool piece of slot car history.

[Steve Okeefe]

Not being a "modern" racer, I've never really figured out what a "bite bar" is or why it's called that.  Perhaps it has something to do with being removeable/replaceable and having some affect on traction?

 

Anyway, I just call it a "pan hanger".  This one looks to be integral with the drop arm hinge pin.  Nice simple, clean setup if minimal pan movement is not an issue.

 

Yes, TonyP did a very nice article about this type of chassis, it's in the October1968 issue of CM.  Starts on page 46...

[John Miller]

Rick,

 

Stainless pins will work just fine.  Steel is heavy media, I hope you have something that with turn the media properly so it works.  A mixture of pins and cones would be the ideal media.  The pins get in the tight spots where the cones cannot.

 

John

Has anyone tried this media yet in a rotary tumbler:

 

Stainless Steel Media

 

[dc-65x]

I've got the Thumblers unit that Buffalo Arms recommends be used with the steel media. I guess I'll still give it a try

 

 

Yes, TonyP did a very nice article about this type of chassis, it's in the October1968 issue of CM.  Starts on page 46...

 

Hmmmmm.......very interesting similarities.

[Steve Okeefe]

  Ain't there?

 

If that's not actually a TonyP chassis, it's a spanking good copy.

[Mike K]

Has anyone tried this media yet in a rotary tumbler:

 

Stainless Steel Media

 

 

 

Yes Rick. In order to fill the drum to cover the chassis you would need about 12 pounds of the SS media. I ordered 5 pounds to begin with and reordered more. As stated above, I have it in a separate drum, as the steel debris and liquid is a bit different from the brass. Brass seems to be cleaner. I'm using the ceramic for the brass retro chassis and steel for spring steel chassis. The ceramic will also polish the steel chassis, but will not remove residue and rust like the steel media.

 

Still experimenting!

[SlotStox#53]

Really love the idea of tumbling the chassis etc , may just have to get one further down the line, certainly does a great job of shining everything up

Last added level of professionalism to any project .

[Tim Tyler]

Last year my dear old mother passed away and left me a small inheritance. My sister suggested that I buy myself something to remember her by. After reading Rick and Pablo's forums for the last year or so, my heart desired nothing more than a tumbler. So I frittered away my inheritance (well, a couple of hundred bucks anyway) on a tumbler.

It shipped today, and when commissioned it shall be known as "The Eleanor Tyler Memorial Tumbler".

For the rest of my life I am going to be making shiny stuff, (yes, I restore old slot cars too) and every single piece will give a little extra memory to my dear departed old mother. Those memories will have inspiration from Pablo and Rick;)

[dc-65x]

 

For the rest of my life I am going to be making shiny stuff, (yes, I restore old slot cars too) and every single piece will give a little extra memory to my dear departed old mother. Those memories will have inspiration from Pablo and Rick;)

 

Thank you Tim

[Tim Tyler]

"The Eleanor Tyler Memorial Tumbler" arrived today, and was commissioned within 5 minutes. The first lucky item (a brass and piano wire chassis built in 1977) is in there. I imagine that I will have this thing running continuously for some weeks as I find more stuff to polish. So thanks once again Rick, for your inspiration.

[dc-65x]

Hi Tim,

 

Are you using distilled water or just local tap water?

[Tim Tyler]

I am using tap water and a small amount of front-loading washing powder.

[dc-65x]

The city water where I used to live in CA would eat steel chassis alive! Pablo uses his Mississippi city water and it works perfectly. If your water is working for you that's great. I'm gun shy so I've never tried the city water here is Western Oregon where I live now. I only use distilled water and so far, so good.

[Tim Tyler]

Thanks for the heads-up, Rick. I have been cleaning my chassis in tap water and dish-washing liquid for a few years now, with no issues. So I am assuming that means the tap water here is relatively benign. If it starts to become an issue, I may have to try the distilled water. In the meantime, I now have some superbly shiny items of slot car componentry. Joy!

[LindsayB]

Tim dont tumble your alloy chassis.

[Tim Tyler]

I can't imagine why not.... Oh, yes I can! Thanks Lindsay!

[Dallas Jackson]

Thanks for all the class on tumbler and media to use. !!

[dc-65x]

If you have problems with corrosion, remember that the pH balance of all tap water is not the same. My previous locations water caused horrible problems with pitting and corrosion of steel. The simple substitution of a $1 gallon jug of distilled water solved my problem.