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Holy smokes! A tumbling we will go!


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#76 tonyp

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Posted 19 April 2008 - 10:49 AM

Rick,

That would be the race. Thanks...

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#77 Steve Okeefe

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Posted 19 April 2008 - 12:25 PM

Thanks from me too, Rick! :D

So the Third New York Car Model road race was held about 35 days after the "first" anglewinder race at J&Js in SoCal (April 20, 1968).

But we also know the Second New York Car Model race featured four anglewinders, one of which belonged to Sandy Gross, and he won that race.

A race report for the Third NY Car Model appears in the September issue of Car Model magazine. It is undated (an annoying habit they had) but it does mention being right after the Columbus race, which was on May 18.

A race report for the Second NY Car Model (also undated) appears one month earlier in the August issue of Car Model (a copy is posted on my web site), so it is reasonable to assume (there's that word again) the race has held in April.

My guess is the weekend of April 27-28; only seven days after the race at J&Js in SoCal. Just about enough time to cut up an inline and make an anglewinder out of it... ;)

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#78 TSR

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Posted 19 April 2008 - 12:50 PM

So what's up with Dan DeBella's car? Are you saying that it's not a car from the time frame as it's told by Vitter?
I have a feeling it's all political, my two cents.

Nesta,

Yes indeed, the chassis in question was built at least two years after their claimed (or not well-remembered) date. The history of slot car pro-racing is quite well documented in period print and pictures, and thanks to the efforts of people like Steve Okeefe, Rick Thigpen, and many other enthusiasts including Yours Truly, it is now possible to tell within weeks when a 1968 to 1973 chassis was actually built, and often by... whom.

As far as being "political", I am afraid that your two cents are not worth a penny.

Philippe de Lespinay


#79 dc-65x

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Posted 19 April 2008 - 03:00 PM

My thread is about the restoration of vintage pro slot cars. EVERYONE is welcome to share their tips, techniques, restoration projects, and discuss the relevant history and dates of these great old cars in my thread if they would like to :) .

A race report for the Second NY Car Model (also undated) appears one month earlier in the August issue of Car Model (a copy is posted on my web site), so it is reasonable to assume (there's that word again) the race has held in April.

My guess is the weekend of April 27 - 28; only seven days after the race at J&Js in SoCal. Just about enough time to cut up an inline and make an anglewinder out of it... ;)

Bingo Steve ;) . The Second Car Model race was held on April 27, 1968, at Hamilton Family Hobby in Brooklyn, NY. It was for GP cars and was won by Sandy Gross.

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#80 68Caddy

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Posted 19 April 2008 - 06:16 PM

TSR,

You are right but luckily, I'm not banking with you. :laugh2:
I'm glad I'm not the sensitive type of a guy. ;)

dc-65x
I think this is a great thread.

Respect (WEI),
Nesta aka 68CaddyPosted Image
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#81 Pablo

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Posted 28 April 2008 - 07:27 AM

Has anyone experimented with finer media than the normal rabbit pellets that get wedged in the corners? Sometimes the areas between the rails don't get quite the exposure I would like. Sand? Smaller media?

Paul Wolcott


#82 havlicek

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Posted 28 April 2008 - 08:23 AM

Pablo,

In the past, I've used corn cob media for general cleaning of used brass before reloading and with the polish supplied by the manufacturer (in this case, a company named "Dillon's") it did an excellent job of cleaning/polishing and brightening very tarnished shell cases. It took quite a long time in a vibratory cleaner though.

Corn cob media is fairly small, but quite soft so it's gentle on the metal. There also is walnut shell media which is harder and more angular than corn cob media... but still a relatively "soft" media. Then there are the various ceramic media available in different sizes and shapes. There are also still more aggressive media and some in very small shapes that will leave a less-shiny finish since they are in effect "sanding" the material.

I've never used any of this stuff, but it makes me wonder if using it might shorten the life of the tumbler/vibrator's bowl. A Google search will probably give loads of ideas and suggestions and then just soldering some junk brass scraps together as test objects should get you headed in the right direction.

When I was a kid, the track owner way back in the '60s was using a tumbler and some sort of mineral media (sand?, pebbles?... beats me) and got great results in a pretty short time from what I remember.
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#83 dc-65x

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Posted 28 April 2008 - 08:11 PM

Has anyone experimented with finer media than the normal rabbit pellets that get wedged in the corners? Sometimes the areas between the rails don't get quite the exposure I would like. Sand? Smaller media?

Hi Pablo,

What media are you using? The Buffalo Arms is on the left and if that's what you're using the Cabela's on the right might work better for you.

mediaa.jpg

My advice to everyone is to not use either company's liquid polish. I have never had corrosion problem until I used this stuff. I'm now trying what Steve Okeefe uses, a low suds liquid Tide for front loader washing machines. "A little dab will do ya". :)

Tumble onward!

Rick Thigpen
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#84 Pablo

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Posted 28 April 2008 - 09:30 PM

Thanks Rick, I'm using the Buffalo Arms. Maybe I'll try the Cabela's next time.

"A little dab'll do ya" - that's Brylcreem, dude!!! :laugh2: Will it work? On my frames, I mean? :laugh2:

Paul Wolcott


#85 Cheater

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Posted 29 April 2008 - 03:57 PM

Well, Pablo, it sure won't work on your bald head!!! :laugh2: :laugh2: :laugh2:

Gregory Wells

Never forget that first place goes to the racer with the MOST laps, not the racer with the FASTEST lap


#86 Pablo

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Posted 29 April 2008 - 04:19 PM

What are you doing lurking in here, cheater, you haven't tumbled a frame in, uh, how many years? :tease: :laugh2:
It's my head, and I'll put as much hair cream on it as I like. :laugh2:

So, nobody has ever experimented using finer media than what is commercially available, I may have to conduct an experiment. If Arodyn can use Tide, I can try beach sand. I need to get those cracks and crevices cleaned up so someday I can be "museum quality". :bb: :)

Paul Wolcott


#87 Rick

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Posted 29 April 2008 - 05:43 PM

Pablo,

Get ready to remove something very much smaller than you put in the tumbler... hahahahahahaah!

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#88 Cheater

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Posted 30 April 2008 - 06:51 AM

What are you doing lurking in here, cheater, you haven't tumbled a frame in, uh, how many years?

Actually, I had Geoff run my modified Warmack through the tumbler here at work a couple of months ago... :)

Gregory Wells

Never forget that first place goes to the racer with the MOST laps, not the racer with the FASTEST lap


#89 tonyp

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Posted 30 April 2008 - 07:53 AM

I just started to use my tumbler (thanks for the info, Dennis!). This maybe a stupid question. What happens if you want to clean up a race car and you tumble it with the ball bearings still in, other than losing them in the bottom of the container?

I threw in an old steel center Iso for an hour or so and although still pretty bad there is engraving I can read now. Way cool.

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#90 Pablo

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Posted 30 April 2008 - 08:53 AM

Losing them in the bottom of the container? What, they fell out?

I've tumbled frames with BBs twice now and they work fine, just flush and oil immediately upon removal. Assuming of course the media is large enough to not enter the bearings...

My sand idea, of course, would not work too well with BBs. :laugh2:

Paul Wolcott


#91 Phil Smith

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Posted 30 April 2008 - 09:09 AM

I don't know if anyone is using walnut shells, but I found this by Googling "tumbler media":

People who reload appreciate clean shiny brass.

Tumbling media lasts a long time, but who really wants to pay $5 a pound? Sure you get a fancy plastic jug... but it goes in the trash eventually.

Here's my cheap solution:

Go to your large chain pet store. Look for the big bags of lizard litter or bird cage litter. They are made of crushed walnut shells, just like tumbler media. Same size. Same stuff. You can get a big 7-pound bag for about $7 a bag.

$1 a pound beats $5 a pound any day!


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#92 tonyp

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Posted 30 April 2008 - 09:19 AM

Pablo, I assumed the media could possibly knock them out of the tube.

I thought it would be OK to do because, like you said, the media is so big. I am going to throw them in later today. Thanks.

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#93 Basil

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Posted 30 April 2008 - 09:43 AM

Tony,

I have tumbled chassis with ball bearings. I install an axle with wheels and no tires before tumbling and never have a problem. Just clean and oil ASAP afterwards.
Basil Michael

#94 tonyp

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Posted 30 April 2008 - 09:54 AM

Thanks, guys!

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#95 Pablo

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Posted 30 April 2008 - 10:25 AM

Now that some guys are using Tide, I can see the chemists at Proctor & Gamble working feverishly to concoct all the new variants:

Tide with bleach and fresh scent for top-loading wet tumblers.
Tide with color brighteners and brass protectant, burned motor scent.
Tide with anti-oxidants for side-loading commercial tumblers, wintergreen scent.

Don't forget the little WD40 sheets in the dryer cycle. :laugh2:

Paul Wolcott


#96 Steve Okeefe

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Posted 30 April 2008 - 11:25 AM

Pablo,

Wow! Where can I get some of the stuff with the wintergreen scent? :wub:

Those WD40 dryer sheets sound real good, too! (dc-65x will love them!) :laugh2:

Your "sand" idea just might work, although I'm thinking it might give you a "satin" finish rather than high shine. Only one way to find out...

Two questions:

1) Were you thinking of "sharp" sand (gritty and abrasive) or "playground" sand (where most of the sharp edges are rounded off?

2) Wet or dry? 1/8" x 3/8" cylindrical ceramic pellets is one thing, but I can imagine the tumbler motor might have a tough time turning a drum-load of wet sand... :blink:

EDIT: Hmmm, I see above you already mentioned "beach" sand, which I presume is the equivalent of "playground" sand. This sounds more and more interesting all the time. Even if the beach sand turns out to be much more abrasive than the normal tumbling media (and I'm thinking it will be) you could limit the tumbling time and get the benefits of the finer media without too much erosion, then plunk it into the normal tumbling media to get that high shine.

Steve Okeefe

 

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#97 Pablo

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Posted 30 April 2008 - 11:47 AM

Only one way to find out...


Looks like nobody has done it, so I'll try it. Wet beach sand.

I wasn't thinking of LOTS of sand, just enough of it mixed in with the rabbit pellets to clean the crevices. I'll also look at the lizard litter, if it's small enough it may do the trick. If the pellets stick inside a tube, the finer material will go in there and git 'er done.

Just my theory, actually, a Navy SEAL buddy suggested it. :)

Paul Wolcott


#98 Rob968323

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Posted 01 May 2008 - 07:41 AM

Guys,

I don't think sand would be a good idea. I've used a vibrating tub with smaller media. Corn media, I think. This stuff gets stuck everwhere!! Don't do it. I was picking out media forever.

Well... now that I'm thinking about it... sand might be small enough to not get stuck. But with water added the sand may clump and get stuck in axle tubes, etc. Keep us posted.

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#99 Pablo

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Posted 01 May 2008 - 08:01 AM

I can see where it would clump and build up in a vibrator, but not in a drum rotating type tumbler like mine. I will try it and I will let you know the results.

Did I ever tell you guys I used to be a rocket scientist before I started sniffing glue? Just kidding, of course. :laugh2:

Paul Wolcott


#100 tonyp

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Posted 01 May 2008 - 08:31 AM

Ah, the good old days, Testors model cement in a paper bag. LOL...

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