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#1276 Dominator

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Posted 13 January 2013 - 09:39 AM

Thanks for all the compliments guys.  I forgot to mention the wheel inserts are 3/8" metal hole plug I picked up at the hardware store while I was looking for something else.  I just opened the prongs up a bit and they fit nice and snug. 


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#1277 John Streisguth

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Posted 13 January 2013 - 11:13 AM

oh yeah...moon disks!  Now that's real cool!


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#1278 MantaRay

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Posted 13 January 2013 - 02:53 PM

Duffy, What do you use to get the engraving so deep?


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#1279 Gator Bob

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Posted 13 January 2013 - 05:49 PM

............ Duffy 67 "Lester W. Polfus."



Six rails of.055"...............
Duf

 

six string?


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#1280 Duffy

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Posted 13 January 2013 - 06:18 PM

Duffy, What do you use to get the engraving so deep?


A firm two-hand grip on my Dremel, a securely-held workpiece, some practice, and THIS:

Little Bit.JPG

It's a single-cut carbide ball bur, 1/16" diameter. Takes some getting used to, and you gotta practice making letters all in one direction - the skill teaches itself, really, with repeat tries.
I'm limited right now - got a nerve pinch in my neck that makes my dominant hand go numb after about 20 seconds use, so I work in little gulps. (Painting in this manner is therapy for me, and a lesson in acceptance.) But, really, you don't want to hold a grip much longer than that: you start to get shakey & lose your nice font.

Little Bit 02.jpg

I looked up the specific tool, here. Go online to MSCDirect, or call 800) 645-7270. You'll get the bur tomorrow.

Duf
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#1281 macman

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Posted 13 January 2013 - 06:21 PM

Raced chassis of #1270 last night. Firmly planted & way to fast; broke out in 7.0 second race about 10 times. It was also somewhat unpredictable, running great, solidly planted & very fast into the corners 3-4 laps then spectacularly losing it by lifting the guide out of the slot about 1/3 into corner; kind of like the early 1:1 911 Turbos. Excellent right up to the point it abruptly left the slot; about the time I realized I had let off a bit too late. At 155 grams! the car had massive inertia: when power went off, it coasted at least 10 feet. This same inertia led to having to let off earlier for the corners. Increased speed &  stability in the corner... right up to the point it lost it & whacked the wall. Bent back the front bumpers in spite of having .055 piano wire bracing them. Did not break solder joint, bent piano wire & brass; at least the nosepiece bent straight back not down, & did not bind on the front tires.

Solutions? First change the new Falcon 7 out for one with several races on it, & consequently slower. As to the weight, the  pans were designed so the the inner pans are easily removed... for now I am going to remove both .062 inner pans & substitute .020 pans: for the March visit to race on Slots of Fun's oval I will put the left .062 back on! 

Last weeks chassis, #1246, at 133 grams was not as fast even with a new 4002bb, but extremely easy to drive & turn consistent laps. I think I will put this one in the box till Abbeville in March!


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#1282 slotcarone

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Posted 13 January 2013 - 08:48 PM

A couple of suggestions--first get rid of the chassis extensions in front of the front tires as they are not necessary.  Second it sounds like you need harder tires.  Is that a stock car chassis?  If so I would try Wonder rubber tires and that should fix the walking out of the slot problem..  Retro Stock Cars need to be loose to corner fast.  Are those front tires the legal width?  Also change the gear ratio to slow the car down and the handling will get better--sounds like it is overgeared.


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#1283 macman

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Posted 13 January 2013 - 09:37 PM

Mike, Yes it is a stocker. Geared 8/27- If I go up to 28, I really don't think that will make much difference... JK treated medium hub with 1/16 trimmed off inside, inside edge slightly rounded. Fronts are Sonic, .275 wide.


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#1284 rav7kaa1

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Posted 21 January 2013 - 10:40 PM

My 1st Formula 1 Build.

 

 

6 rails .047

.950 guide lead

weighs 64 grams as is

.040 pan movement front to back.

.010 movement up and down and side to side.

 

001 (800x600).jpg 002 (800x600).jpg


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J. P. Milcherska

Keep it in the slot!!!


#1285 NSwanberg

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Posted 22 January 2013 - 01:46 AM

.950" guide lead?



#1286 rav7kaa1

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Posted 22 January 2013 - 10:18 AM

yes Sorry .950 guide lead


J. P. Milcherska

Keep it in the slot!!!


#1287 Dominator

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Posted 22 January 2013 - 11:32 PM

Be careful when choosing your body and guide as with a long lead on a F-1it will be a tight fit to cover the guide and keep the body aligned with the front axle.

A motor is only as fast as the chassis it's in.
 
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#1288 Jairus

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Posted 23 January 2013 - 10:30 AM

Things I learned: Duffy has carbide balls.  :)


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#1289 JohnnySlotcar

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Posted 23 January 2013 - 10:51 AM

J.P., you might want to check with Dave over that long guide length. Easy fix if needed. Enjoyed having you at our LBS race!


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#1290 Bernie

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Posted 23 January 2013 - 11:30 AM

JP,

Looks real nice. Should run good as well.


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#1291 MantaRay

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Posted 23 January 2013 - 02:32 PM

Clean..................


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#1292 gascarnut

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Posted 23 January 2013 - 04:40 PM

Be careful when choosing your body and guide as with a long lead on a F-1it will be a tight fit to cover the guide and keep the body aligned with the front axle.

 

.950 is not particularly long for the guide lead on a F1. Every body I have tried takes a 1" guide lead easily.


Dennis Samson
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Life is scratchbuilt

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#1293 rav7kaa1

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Posted 23 January 2013 - 09:19 PM

It looks deceving since the brass stops where it does. I have added some brass to the nose to close the gap a bit.


J. P. Milcherska

Keep it in the slot!!!


#1294 macman

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Posted 25 January 2013 - 07:50 PM

delete


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#1295 macman

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Posted 25 January 2013 - 08:18 PM

Work In Progress Can-Am

Got off early today due to sleet... In Charlotte, sleet, snow or ice close everything down... ASAP!!!  :laugh2:

8 rails .047

3/4 motor bracket

Coined guide tongue, .825 length

Don't remember whose pieces these are, bought them a year ago.

.062 nose piece, 1" x 3/4"

3.93 WB

Probably be a shaker

May take off some of the most crooked bracing on the motor bracket. Now time to go scrub the acid off of it. 

WIP canam.jpg

After some comet & brass brush... Now have to let the little battery Dremel charge up again... If I keep this up I guess I will have to get another plug-in unit...

WIP canam2.jpg


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#1296 slotcarone

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Posted 25 January 2013 - 10:42 PM

:) Looks like a good start Ben!!!!  I have a couple of suggestions that may help you out. I usually take the first rail that is next to the motor bracket and bend a 90 degree angle in the back and run it up the side of the bracket just behind the bearing.  This ads more soldered area than just the bottom of the bracket and also strengthens the bracket at the same time.  When I get to this point in a build I take the chassis to the sink and scrub it with an SOS steel wool pad to get rid of the acid residue and shine the work.  Then I dry it with a paper towel.  SOS works better than Brillo and I usually cut them in half first.  Give it a try!!!


Mike Katz

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#1297 DCR

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Posted 29 January 2013 - 05:53 AM

...I had some time so I sat down and re-learned how to build a chassis again.I hadn't built a real brass/wire car since the early 1980s,so Im still a bit rusty.The car in the photo is one of the Kamo-Speed Can-Am clones Iv made,this is #3.The rails are .055/.063 and total weight is 43.4 as it sits.Im working on some more chassis in different lengths and some other mods to try and I will post one or two of them in a few days.

.....Thanks Don....

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#1298 John Streisguth

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Posted 29 January 2013 - 06:14 AM

Looks nice Don...I don't think you've lost your touch.


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#1299 Dominator

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Posted 29 January 2013 - 06:55 AM

Another work of art for pages.

A motor is only as fast as the chassis it's in.
 
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#1300 slotcarone

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Posted 29 January 2013 - 08:14 AM

:) That's beautiful Don!!!  Looks like you are officially addicted!!


Mike Katz

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