Thanks for the reply... Thanks for mentioning that many folks use the Createx and it sticks well. I'm a complete newb with painting and then add on the whole lexan/polycarbonate aspect and I know even less.. so this is all a new world for me.
I guess I wanted to understand how it works so I gave Createx a call and spoke with 1 of their technical experts. He explained that technically their paint does make use of solvents but not the traditional ones. I guess they could be considered safer in many ways then the old school solvents. I guess this is why the smell isn't as bad. That said even if I wanted a "half-baked" paint job (even with rattle can) I need to do very light coats multiple times (this might be a no-duh moment for some folks, I get that). The light coats allow the solvents that make the paint stick to evaporate and not get locked in and eat the lexan/polycarbonate. I still have a little concern since our series people typically run .007 thick bodies that using traxxas paint might have a chance to loosen up the body too much? That said I don't know if different colors make use of a different amount of solvent? Not sure, forgot to ask.
things I learned so far
1) when using anything translucent (typically Transparent or Fluorescent colors) if you want them to be more Opaque then either apply more LIGHT coats or apply a backing coat of a non-translucent or Opaque color.. (yes, I see some people rolling their eyes but this is new to me).
2) solvents in paint can do many things... including destroy what you are working on if used improperly. For example applying paint to something that paint shouldn't technically be used on. ie: by the right paint for the right job (sounds simple but you might be missing something even!)
3) typically the solvents will evaporate or become inactive so applying multiple lighter coats will not necessarily make whatever you are applying the paint to weaker if done correctly. ie: there is no such thing as a half-baked paint job as it'll end up actually causing problems with lexan... argh..
the only thing I'll mention is that when I spoke to Createx they also maybe suggested adding in UVLS-4050 to make it just a bit stronger but it's not necessary. You can do 9 - paint, 1 reducer (as suggested by folks in this thread) but then also add another 1 of the clear coat to make it a bit stronger.
Also I'll mention that it seems like not all acrylic paints are the same... different solvent options. So maybe Createx works great but other acrylics not so much.
You might have known a lot of this Bill but figured I'd just mention it in this reply.. and thanks again!
Mike, if you go the airbrush route, there are some sold with a rechargeable battery operated compressor. Recharging is done with a USB cord. I do not have one, but there are a number of good reviews on YouTube.If you have any interest, search on "cordless airbrushes." YouTube has many other videos on painting topics, including a few on spray cans. One topic that may interest you are videos on using Tamiya spray cans.
The Parma Faskolor body paints are made by Createx in CT. I've used both lines of acrylic paints without a problem as have many other slot car & RC racers.
Seems like you are already comfortable with it but for me it might be a fairly step learning curve. The best homer simpson quote I can think of "trying is the first step to failure"... heh.. I don't honestly think that way and heck maybe I'd even enjoy it but I just have my concerns going that route. I don't have too many local folks to give pointers. Yes I can definitely watch youtube but sometimes have that in person experience is helpful.
