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Ferrari 512S


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#151 Mark Onofri

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Posted 29 January 2024 - 05:55 PM

Damn it, I'll be back! I gotta try it




#152 Bill from NH

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Posted 29 January 2024 - 06:15 PM

I have my own "spit-paint" process that works for me with acrylics.


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#153 MG Brown

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Posted 29 January 2024 - 08:32 PM

"Mike, it's unfortunate that the older the thread, the less photos are retrievable."

 

IIRC in the ancient past of SLOTBLOG, the software being used did not have the facility to host photos or attach them directly to messages. 

What you had to do back then was have a photo server of some kind that you placed your photos on and then post the address (url) of the photo in your message. I forget when it was that this was changed to the current system.

 

If someone fails to pay their photo server fees, the photo can no longer be accessed on the photo server. I have continued to pay my photo server fees to Flickr just so that older photos don't "disappear". 

Some rainy day I might convert all of my old messages with photos to the new system, but it will likely be a time consuming task.

An example is this message thread: http://slotblog.net/...-segment-video/

I don't have a myspace.com account any more so it can't find the video that I was sharing any longer.
 


That's thirty minutes away. I'll be there in ten.
 
 

 


#154 Dave Crevie

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Posted 30 January 2024 - 10:16 AM

I've only done this with lacquer. I don't think it will work with any paint that doesn't have a quick "flash over". I.E. Dries fast. The water might evaporate before the paint sets up, and the definition of the edges of the droplets might be lost. This is one of those "takes a lot of practice" situations. I used to practice on an old Pontiac Catalina door. I think it is in one of the storage garages. A lot of memories on that door. 


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#155 Mark Onofri

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Posted 30 January 2024 - 03:54 PM

Ok, I'm back. Laqour dissipated over the entire surface of the water. Acrilics, IDK. But, enamel, enamel applied on the water, that works!!!
As far as retrieving old photos, usually (sometimes) I've had success with Google lenzing a photo of something similar to what I'm looking for. Try it. Like everything else in life it's a 50/50 chance of success. Not counting first dates.

#156 Mark Onofri

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Posted 12 February 2024 - 06:08 PM

I've had it right in front of me. No wonder I couldn't find it. Yes, yes it is a Mac 512M. #962

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#157 Flathead

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Posted 13 February 2024 - 03:28 AM

Mark I would say that your mottled paint jobs were the old marker pen & hairspray technique that was popular for a little while from around 69 on (especially in England). Results were often varied between neat circles, leopard print, full mottling to blurry mess. See this link to slotform where it mentions the hairspray technique along with the water technique you are talking about;

https://www.slotforu...079/post-869854
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#158 Dave Crevie

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Posted 13 February 2024 - 09:39 AM

That's a cool effect, Mark, and stands on it's own. But it lacks the three dimensional effect of the water droplets. I've never tried doing it in reverse, on the inside of a body. But I am sure it can be done. This is what I want;

 

waterdroppaint.JPG waterdroppaint1.JPG

 

And I have done it on a few real cars in the long past. (actually, two cars and a ski boat. Humorous to watch people try to dry up the water droplets on the boat, not realizing that they were permanent ) So, to do it on the inside of a clear body, I have to figure out how to walk the process back, starting with the clear Lexan as the clear topcoats. I would guess tape off the boarder of the area you want to "panel" first. Then spritz the area with water. Spray the shadow highlights that will appear inside the droplets. Fog the boarder of the panel to give depth. Spray the background color. Let the water dry, remove the tape, and overcoat with the base color of the rest of the car. 

 

Although not at the top of my list of projects, it's something I would like to try.   



#159 Mark Onofri

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Posted 14 February 2024 - 05:10 PM

Maybe when I've mastered speedboat metal flake.....🙄.

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#160 Mark Onofri

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Posted 14 February 2024 - 06:00 PM

It looks better when it's backed up.
The hairspray & marker....🤔. I have tried the enamel and HQO, I'll do it again and post it.
Off to the races, or should I say, crash testing. At least with the new body, I can look great loosing 👍

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#161 Mark Onofri

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Posted 14 February 2024 - 06:51 PM

Figures, I'm early and there closed. I guess I try the HqO & enamel.
PS:if you look reeeely close, you can read the subliminal messages in the flakes.🧐

#162 Dave Crevie

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Posted 15 February 2024 - 09:34 AM

Love that effect on a slot car body. The hexagon shapes are so much more obvious. 

 

As to real Metalflake, I did this hardbody car some years ago with left over 'flake I had from painting cars 50 years ago;

 

IMG_0309.JPG

 

The silver looks rough in the photo, but I assure you, the surface is glass smooth. Since this photo was taken, I had added a yellow stripe down the side to separate the red and silver. 

 

I tried doing one on the inside of a clear body. Didn't work so well. The flakes didn't lay down well, and the number of clear coats I had to spray over the flake so that I could add the base color made the body curl inwards on the sides.

 

I also have a hardbody hot rod shot with Spindrift, a Metalflake/House of Colors product that was mother of pearl ground up, to be added to the clear just like you did with the Metalflake. It produced an iridescent effect under lighting, and especially in the sun, when you would get a rainbow effect. Come to think of it, somewhere I have a '65 Chevy Impala lowrider, with Diamond Dust shot over the black background color.     



#163 Mark Onofri

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Posted 20 February 2024 - 08:40 PM

I've done a little more since the last photo. The silver is a little over the top, even by my (lack of) standards. I did however achieve the effects I was looking for.
Dave, I've found that with reverse painting, the object is to NOT have the flakes lay down. Well, depends on how well you know her.
PS: the rough silver on the front of the hood is on the outside and,is removable.

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#164 Mark Onofri

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Posted 20 February 2024 - 08:46 PM

Here's a more sedated version of flakeyness .

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#165 Mad Mark

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Posted 20 February 2024 - 09:47 PM

Woah nice flake!
Mark Haas

#166 Dave Crevie

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Posted 21 February 2024 - 09:30 AM

That black w/gold flake car looks like it was done with the Createx flake-in-a-can spray, which lays down pretty well since the flakes are small to get through the nozzle. You need to spray over it (inside) with Lexan grade clear to lock it in, or it will start to break off like non-Lexan grade paint does in a hit. I've used it, and it looks good when done right. Yours looks good. The trouble with rattle can flake is it never has the depth of real Metalflake. And I worry that, as the paint comes to full cure, it might cause the sides to curl in like I had with a vac formed body I tried doing.

 

I'd say the blue and silver car looks great. Over the top is what you are looking for in a paint job like this. I like what you have done so far, so keep trying stuff. That is how new painting techniques are discovered. Soon I'll be able to say I learned it from you. 



#167 Mark Onofri

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Posted 21 February 2024 - 04:46 PM

Thanks Mark and Dave!
I actually sprayed it (the gold) with my new tallon dual action brush. Really pushed the limit of it's capabilities. It would have been nice to have my friend shake the cans for me but,..... it might not have gotten painted.
Yes, yes I did back it up with a two (2) part acrylic. Can't remember the name right now but, I'll post it later. I've got a few more that I've done, only problem is trying to capture the full intensity of the falkeyness. Tilting it by just a few °+-, gives a different color/effect.
That blue is going to work out very very well on a 512-M. Better than Sunoco blue. I guess I know what I'm doing next..... for once.

#168 Dave Crevie

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Posted 22 February 2024 - 09:27 AM


only problem is trying to capture the full intensity of the falkeyness. Tilting it by just a few °+-, gives a different color/effect.

Exactly. Following the contours of the body are of utmost importance. Just like doing panel repair on a car with a deep metallic paint finish. You have to match the way the original paint was shot, or the color won't match. 

That blue is going to work out very very well on a 512-M. Better than Sunoco blue. I guess I know what I'm doing next..... for once.

Knowing what you are going to do next is counter-productive. Trying different things is how you learn, and new techniques are developed.  :victory: 



#169 Mark Onofri

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Posted 23 February 2024 - 04:09 AM

The McLaren is the first one I did.
The Daldra is the second attempt. Both pushed the single action brush to the max. The Dodge was done with a different process.
And while we're on the subject of pushing the limits, Dave, my saying that I know what I'm going to do next is DEFINITELY pusing it.

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#170 Dave Crevie

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Posted 23 February 2024 - 09:04 AM

So far, so good.



#171 Mark Onofri

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Posted 26 February 2024 - 01:55 PM

Did this one a while ago. Can you see the gost flames?

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