255 replies to this topic

[Jay Guard]

Rob:

After you drill the holes for the braid drops you may want to consider taking a square file to the tops of the holes and "square" them out.  This allows the braid to make a perfect 90 degree drop instead of having the braid kind of curl up at the sides as it goes down the through the round hole.  Most guys don't take the time to do this and it seems to work out OK, but I did it on my track and the cars seem to run smoother at the joints with zero lift.

[Bigdogbro1]

Rob:

After you drill the holes for the braid drops you may want to consider taking a square file to the tops of the holes and "square" them out.  This allows the braid to make a perfect 90 degree drop instead of having the braid kind of curl up at the sides as it goes down the through the round hole.  Most guys don't take the time to do this and it seems to work out OK, but I did it on my track and the cars seem to run smoother at the joints with zero lift.

Thanks Jay, I will do that when I get there.

[Bigdogbro1]

Hi Fellow Slotters,

 

I have started the sidewall installation at the loop section of the track.  I have installed the first layer of 1/4" hardboard (Masonite) to the track edge on the outside of the loop.  I started at the one joint block and ended up about 30 inches from the next joint block.  Once I get that last first layer on I will add the second 1/4" layer.  The first layer was glued and screwed to the track edge and L-brackets then stapled 3/4" down from the track top surface and into the L-bracket that is attached to the underside of the track.  I will now carry on with the remaining sidewalls that I have access to while the track is assembled.

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[Bigdogbro1]

Update:  The first full thickness 1/2" wall is installed and the ends are trimmed at the joint block seams for the next section.  A bit of a learning curve and prepping for the process but I vertically trimmed sawed (4.5" 40t carbide blade) the two laminations of 1/4" thick hardboard wall around the loop today and installed the screws permanently.  I will attempt to do the inside radius of the loop but will use 3/8" thick flexi plywood for the first inner wall and 1/8" thick flexi for the outer wall.  The straights will be 1/2" MDF.  The loop has a max 2.5 degree bank mid section and a consistent incline to the bridge.  The bridge center is zero bank (level) and twist into a positive chamber bank into the lead-in to the back straight-away.  I purchased fifteen more 6" bar clamps from Harbor freight.  I like them because at $3.49ea with a bar latch and fine thread clamp screw they are the best deal around for doing the sidewalls.  Anyways things are moving along slow but moving.  My help gets sick and bad weather.  The basement is comfortable.

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[Bigdogbro1]

I have 99% completed the track loop end sidewalls...wow that was an effort let me tell you.  I have had help with all that as it is difficult sizing, gluing, bending, stapling and screwing on the sidewall sheets.  Now that the loop end of the track is done I can move on to the back straights and 20 degree bank turn final setup and sidewalls.  The straights will be a bit easier as I will be using 1/2" MDF sheet.  I have all the electrical components, wire, crimps, barrier strips and connectors ready to go.  I am still unsure of the track topcoat paint and I'm looking into a colorized oil-base Polyurethane and will need to do some traction testing with different tire material compounds but that's down the road a ways.  Keepin On.....

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[Bigdogbro1]

I had a day open so I made my Alligator clip to XLR plug adaptor cable and a 3ft. XLR extension cable.  All 12ga silicone fine stran wire and ready for use.

 

I have the 1/2" MDF sidewalls installed on the outside of the back straight done and moving onto the 20 degree bank turn.

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[Bigdogbro1]

Another small 3D printed project I wanted is this tire cleaning station.  Sponges for IPA and fine sandpaper for scuffing if needed.

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[Bigdogbro1]

I had 25+ friends over last Sunday to help move the track over 3 inches to get access on the smaller banked turn sidewall at the basement support post.  With that now done I have been adding more sidewalls to the track.  The project is coming together very well and I will be separating a few sections to get room to add the final sidewalls and trimming the tops and bottoms.

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[Bigdogbro1]

Well since moving the track I have done more sidewalls.  Going to install the back straight-away walls to get those finished up today.  I have a plan to jockey the sections around to get to those turns and the one front short straight.   You can see that the turns all have two layers of 1/4" hardboard or two layers of Flexi-Plywood for the tighter radius turns.  I did each layer separately.  Glued and stapled each layer and added screws at the L-brackets on the last layer.  Here are pictures from last weeks effort.

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[Bigdogbro1]

As I continue around the track I tape the joint block seam ends with 3M plastic silver color HVAC tape.  I tape the joint tongues or the entire joint block side depending on which end I'm starting from.  This keeps the 1st layer of sidewall from gluing to the next track section.  I also tape the sidewall ends of the previous finished sidewall so that the next sidewall section going on won't not get glued to the previous end.

 

While I have the track sections pulled apart I brush on some Varathane Oil-base Polyurethane at the slots and joint seam to prep for the braid drop hole drilling.  Before separating the joint blocks I removed any leg shims, readjusted the legs for floor contact and locked the leg with a screw.  I need to touch-up the butt ends of the track surface with more Polyeruathane between the slots.  Doing this now should help keep the seam butt ends from sticking together when I later Polyurethane the entire track surface when reassembled.

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[Bigdogbro1]

Hi All,

I have been busy building the track installing the sidewalls.  Only the outside sidewall to install on the flat S4 section once I cut a few sidwalls first.

 

I made trimsaw fixtures to cut the top sidewall to two inches and cut the lower sidewall off at 6-3/8" from the cut top.  Did alot of cutting and things went very well.

 

Here is a video link of the loop top wall trim cutting.

https://youtube.com/...Q?feature=share

 

 

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[Bigdogbro1]

Here are a few pictures after the sidewall trimming.  The 1/4" hardboard used on the laminated sidewalls glued up with a tight seam and look perfect.  So far so good and very happy with all the results on the build.

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[Brian Czeiner]

Your video says it is private.  The progress looks good.

[zipper]

I can see it.

[Brian Czeiner]

A few pictures of the jig please.  I was planning on using a router, but the circular saw looks like it might be a better idea.

[Bigdogbro1]

Here are the wall cutting fixtures to show those of you what I made.  Made from scrap pieces.  The top wall cutoff height ended up being set at two inches but I ended up with 2-1/8" tall walls.  The bottom wall fixture overall cut height was reset to 6-3/8" from 6-1/4" originally. to give good coverage of the joint blocks and L-brackets underneath the track.   The trimsaw (circular saw) was purchased from a local Menards big box store for around $50.  It has a vacuum port and 4-1/2"  blade.  I purchased a 40t carbide blade for it as well.  The saws bottom adjuster plate had areas on it to allow me to drill holes and bolt on the fixtures.  It has a laser pointer on it but I don't use it on this build. 

 

For those bottom cuts on the tight inside turns like the loop (pictured here) and lead-in to the back straight I will mark the line and hand cut with a cordless 18t reciprocating saw.

 

This is the bottom edge cutter.

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[Bigdogbro1]

Here is the top wall cutter fixture.  The last picture shows how the saw would mount to the modified steel L-brackets.  The bottom cut fixture is still mounted to the saw but you get the idea here.  Both these fixtures require respect when using them.  A firm grip and attention is needed to stay the coarse.  I had a friend handle the cord and vac hose while moving around the track, except during filming the video.  Yeah I know I misspelled "Sidewall", brain fart!  The top sidewall cutter fixture exposes the saw blade to the outside of the wall and can be dangerous to use if not giving it your full attention.  I kept the exposed blade distance set to a minimum because of this and to reduce tear out on the Luan 3/8" flexi-ply on the inside turns.  The short flathead 1/4-20 PH screws are countersunk into the backside of the steel L-bracket so as not to interfere on the sidewall (can't see in picture).

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[Bigdogbro1]

A few pictures of the jig please.  I was planning on using a router, but the circular saw looks like it might be a better idea.

 

Steve Ogilvie normally used a circular saw to cut the top walls off but used a router instead on his sons track.  In his video he mentions that the circular saw was dangerous and didn't want to show it to protect fellow builders.  I appreciate his concern and used the circular saw method at my own risk as others out there should consider as well.

[Bigdogbro1]

Your video says it is private.  The progress looks good.

The video release time got mixed up and didn't go public until 6pm.   Sorry about that.

[Brian Czeiner]

Thank you for the pics. Steve's thread was where I learned of using a router. My interest was having some visual information on both options.   

[Bigdogbro1]

Here is a video short where I am cutting the bottom of the sidewall off a 6-3/8" from the precut top wall.  The silver tape flips over to the adhesive side and catches the guide plate on the saw but I get past it okay.  The silver 3M HVAC plastic tape is used to keep the wood glue attaching the sidewalls together and gets removed when the joint blocks get separated.

 

 

https://youtube.com/...3zTitw3bsEZrMFX

[Bigdogbro1]

Here are a few more pictures of me making my way around the last inner turn installing the outside wall layer.  One more 32" section to glue, staple and screw on then the entire track wall will be installed.  On to more wall trimming after that and begin final loop turn and bridge wall trimming.  I included a picture of the cordless reciprocating saw I purchased off Amazon for cutting those tight inside walls where a circular saw is too big.  I cut down the blade length so I don't cut into legs underneath.

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[Bigdogbro1]

MILESTONE REACHED!

 

I have installed the final wall layer today!  This completes this portion of the track build.  Onto trimming the walls, sanding and cleaning.  This portion takes a lot of work and dedication to complete along with my friends help, stopping by every other day.  

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[Brian Czeiner]

What have you decided on for track surface and color?

[Bigdogbro1]

What have you decided on for track surface and color?

Hi Brian,

I'm going to start with a oil-base Varathane polyurethane sealer coat then with a light gray enamel Sherwin Williams? top coat.