131 replies to this topic

[dc-65x]

I don't know John, that doesn't seem to make sense either. It's probably just a little "not straight" . Next time I'll get brave and put a dial indicator on the thing and try bending it. I should mess with a junk arm first .

[Prof. Fate]

Hi

Memories, you are triggering memories. In 63 with my first Pittman 196, I spent too much time chasing the spriing and "T" spacers around the bench while trying to work on the com. And gave up in disgust and went with the coil like you did. Oddly, the first time I saw it was on a MRRC open frame motor. And while the rest of the motor was unwonderufl (you thought Pittman magnets were Week), the spring was obviously the solution.

I only regretted that my 704s couldn't do it that way!

Fate

[Quickcars]

Great post and I really appreciate the Dino article. I'm trying to put together a running Dino now. I have a mint Dino chassis that I'm going to mount a resilient resin body to. Hopefully I won't screw it up and it'll look decent when I'm done.



Paul

[Champion 507]

Rick,

You're hurting me. That motor is beautiful. I especially like the way you fixed the problem with the lower endbell screw with the countersunk one.

I have only had one of these and it was the bushing version...43 years ago. Wish I still had it.

[dc-65x]

Hi Rocky,

Yes that Simco torsion spring is a zillion times easier to use than the stock coil spring and plungers. I also noticed on the power supply I could hear the rpm's increasing if I applied a little more tension than the stock stretched spring provided. With the Simco spring that doesn't happen.

You're welcome Paul. I liked the Dino article too. That's why posted the entire article instead of just the frame and motor bracket designs. Glad you enjoyed it .

Doug, Pittman 6001's are popular it seems. I see one for sale on Ebay from time to time for $75 . That would be a bargain at 1/3 the price . I see them in old junky cars at auction too. Keep your eyes peeled .

[dc-65x]

These are the additional parts I used on the car:



Cox guide and super soft braid, Weldun gears, some ball bearings for the rear axle, our cloned Russkit standard width rear wheels for the front and mondo big K&B front tires . The sidewall detail of these "Stock Car Special" Goodyear's looks a lot like their "Blue Streak Sports Car Specials" tires used in the day. This is the look I'll be going for with my wheels, tires and wheel inserts:



I decided to make the fronts turn independently on the 1/8" axle. I want to be able to remove them without having to unsolder a retainer so I decided to lock one wheel on the axle with its set screw and let the one wheel and axle turn together. I soldered a retainer on the other end of the axle and that wheel spins freely by itself. So the wheel inserts will still fit down flush inside the wheel I cut a counterbore with Mr. Sherline:



Check out that sidewall detail. That sure looks better than foam fronts to my eyes ... it will probably won't handle as good though







Here's the Cox guide, Supersoft braid, and Superflex lead wire all hooked up...



... and the sweet-meshing Weldun 64P gears and ball bearings installed:





All finished with assembly:







I need to get the wheel inserts cut to fit and any other cosmetic stuff ready before the dreaded painting begins...

Onward...

[Jairus]

Very nice!


Ah... dreaded painting?
You are way better than you think, my friend.

[TSR]

As John Cleese would say in "Fawlty Towers", "vealy nice" ...

[dc-65x]

"Tank ou berry much" .

[TSR]

That reminds me of the Japanese word for "tinplate", it's "Buriki", derived from the Dutch "Blik". Now you have to get there with your best Japanese accent, and thinking that "L" and "R" are very hard to distinguish in Japanese.
So it's "Blik", to "Bu-lik", to "Bu-Ri-k" to "Buriki"... Sounds like that "Lora T70" kit by Tamiya!

[Horsepower]

OK, I couldn't figure out how the braids were done so perfectly, but it looks now like the guide is an old type guide with brushes that have the old school copper loops at the ends, then bent perfectly and the motor wires soldered to them. The first picture I saw made me think there was some special construction. That's a great way to update the old school guide shoes. A very neat job on those and everything else on the build!

[mdiv]

Beeee-aaaaa-uuuuuu-tiful, Rick!

Mikey!

[havlicek]

"No stone left unturned"... right down to the last subatomic particle, and the car pictured above is the result.

There's no one who makes it tougher on you, Rick, than... yourself If I had your talent, my head would explode. Beeeeeoooootiful!

[mdiv]

I love going through this thread again and again and seeing all of Rick's beautiful pictures!

[dc-65x]

Thank you, guys. I've done something I think looks pretty cool to this Lotus Chevy. It's pretty basic really as I'm no modeler. But it's something that stands out in the pictures of the real car. I will finish that up this weekend and post more pictures...

[dc-65x]

Well, the new in the box Pittman 6001BB's have shown up on eBay again. Unfortunately, they are $75 each and three are currently available. I do not know the seller, I'm just providing information. So, if someone REALLY, REALLY wants one, here they are:

Pittman 6001BB Motors

[TSR]

That's almost as much as a blueprinted TSR D3!

[Horsepower]

He must be reading Slotblog! on a regular basis.

[TSR]

Gary,

All they have to do is look at other ePay auctions and slap a price on their stuff.

[Bill from NH]

Did you notice someone selling copies of your $15 book for $75 on ebay? When they didn't sell, they lowered the price to $69.95, and they aren't even autographed.

[TSR]

I am continuously amazed at the prices announced for these books... I saw one on Amazon for $299.00 once!

Crazy. For anyone who wants one, they should pay no more than 35 bucks, tops.

[dc-65x]

OK, I couldn't figure out how the braids were done so perfectly, but it looks now like the guide is an old type guide with brushes that have the old school copper loops at the ends, then bent perfectly and the motor wires soldered to them. The first picture I saw made me think there was some special construction. That's a great way to update the old school guide shoes. A very neat job on those and everything else on the build!

Hi Gary,

Here's how I've been doing old style guides with screw on Cox Supersoft style braid:



I'm using REHco's continuation Cox style braid. They don't quite crimp all the braid in place and it can start coming undone:



So I solder it in place. Squeezing the braid with needle nose pliers keeps the solder from flowing down the braid where you don't want it:



As you can see from the picture below the real car has a bunch of "gizmos" hanging out the back. I think it makes the car look pretty awesome....like a little 4 cylinder sports racer with a big American V8 stuffed into it . I guess because that's what it is .

So my Rick's Jig came through again to hold my "gizmo" hanger mount in place:



The chassis is ready to hang the "gizmos" on but I've got to make it first. Kit bashing time .



I used the blower from an AMT Double Dragster reissue model kit to mimic the transaxle. The oil cooler is a cut down radiator from a 1965 Ford Galaxy kit:



The exhaust pipes are made from aluminum tubing:



Here they are painted along with a solder up piano wire roll bar and brace:



Tomorrow I hope to cut the rear wheel inserts to fit, paint and install them and glue my "gizmos" on the chassis.

Onward...

[Tex]

Aaawwww... this is gettin' GOOD!

[Prof. Fate]

Hi,

I haven't looked at eBay in years. Got depressing!

Anyway, in the brief 26D period for me, I used 26D franken motors often using the Pittcan endbell! The first version of the 6001 wasn't that hot, my franken motors wee a lot hotter. I time during the period of just restoring my old cars to just play with, running motors that needed a rebuild every heat didn't make sense. HOWEVER, finding stock 26Ds was impossible. They were, 20 years ago, 75 bucks. But the 6001s were unknown and about 5 bucks.

So, I polled the franken motors and replaced them with stock Pittcans. Reliable as nails and almost as quick.

So, now, ironically, the Pittcans are impossibly expensive. I wonder, though, what 26D prices are doing!

Fate

[typo156]

Clean work... and impressive. Could you post the photo of the rear of the car with its pitboard spoiler? I've never seen that one.

Any chance of seeing Bart Martin's BT8 Ford photos... hint, hint.