Restoration of Cox Chaparral
#126
Posted 01 April 2012 - 03:37 AM
About heads...
For every 2E with number 65, I will sculpt a Cox head just to please Philippe de Lespinay... (well, not just him...)
And the result (can be seen more easily with a second one already sculpted, with the helmet painted):
So the 2 different models of 2E will differ from each other not only with the color of the wing and their numbers, but #66 will have a stock head for Jim Hall and # 65 will get a tribute to the late Phil Hill.
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#128
Posted 01 April 2012 - 01:22 PM
Not doubt, you are a "Plastic Surgeon"
Bob Israelite
#129
Posted 01 April 2012 - 01:56 PM
#130
Posted 02 April 2012 - 02:33 AM
Now, I'm sorry to disagree with you, and this for several reasons:
- Finding missing elements is a part of the pleasure for a collector.
- And unless you have a certain part, you will not be able to measure it and get it 3D printed; though, once you get the part you have no more problem unless you have several cars to restore, in which case the resin casting and silicon molding is an excellent solution, with better surface than a 3D printer.
One of my friends is a professional designer, he has several 3D printers at work and happens to also be a slot car builder and one among the best there is in the world: Pierre-Yves Lebeau. He did many masters for Proto Slot Kit (PSK - Ghost Models) cars.
His 1/43 chassis (the one of PSK should I say) are made with a 3D printer. He prefers to reserve this technique for parts like a chassis, notably because of the poor state of the surface and create the master of a 1/32 or a 1/24 Aston Martin from scratch, using more traditionnal methods.
- By the way, restoring slot cars is only a hobby for me and it happens that working with my hands rather than with my head is a real pleasure. When I do this, I feel relaxed, so relaxed that I sometimes find solution for my real job without any appearent effort. By using a 3D printer, I would not use my hands. I know that this would be rare and not a real argument, but in my profession you try to list all the arguments you have in your hands...
- At last, my "phylosophy" is to restore slot cars and build them just as a good modeler would have done at the time the kit was issued. And at that time there was no 3D printer...
But indeed this tool is facinating and perfect for the creation of prototypes!
To revert to the missing parts of the 2E: As you can see at the beginning of the thread, my friend Don Siegel had a complete car that he proposed me to build up. This gave me access to a complete car with no glue on the parts and it was perfect for making silicon moulds.
For the wind screen (that cannot be 3D printed), apart from 2 genuine parts that were perfect among the 8 cars I had in my workbench, I used the excellent repros made by Classic Tin Toys.
I may add general consideration about values of 2E using repro parts or with parts repaired, about whether or not to paint those kits, etc, as I saw debates here and there on this subject. But I feel this is not the place to do it. This thread is only about the restoration and modeling technics and if we want to keep it as short as possible for practical reasons, making it a possible reference for those who need it, I should stop talking.
As 3D printer is a tool, I took the liberty to give my opinion, that is all.
But thank you again Dave and all the other people who came and left few words or asked questions or suggested a different technic, for your kind interest.
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#131
Posted 02 April 2012 - 02:54 AM
May be a thick decal would be thinner and closer to the surface. I shall try this.
It is now time to paint the face.
I start with the eyes, this way:
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#132
Posted 02 April 2012 - 06:24 AM
Thank you Jean-Michel to show us your perfect and artigianal works: I like it so much and as I said in another post it's a way to push us, low - medium level modellers, to try to imitate you.
Still thank you!
p.s. just a ask: where to find the photo etched grill in right scale?
#133
Posted 02 April 2012 - 07:34 AM
I found it in a shop specializing in metal parts, profiles, threads, nuts and bolts etc. A hardware store.
For the few French people reading this topic: Weber Métaux, rue du Poitou, in the center of Paris.
May-be you will find equivalent meshing on some kitchen hardware, like protection you put on top of frying pans.
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#134
Posted 02 April 2012 - 07:56 AM
i was in Paris just 2 weeks ago for vacations (was my first time there , easy to say wonderfull town!).
Mercì beaucoup monsieur et bonne soireè,
Angelo
#135
Posted 20 April 2012 - 08:52 AM
Here I use artist oil paints.
First of all I paint the face with mid-tone flesh color.
Then I use a darker tone for the shadows (under the gogles glasses, under the nose, the lips, etc.) The closer to the embossement, the darker.
Here I start under the lips.
Thereafter, I use lighter tones for what should be more exposed to the light of the "sun".
now, for the lips I use the same paint than the rest of the face, but with little more red.
Then I can paint the area inside the glasses, with the same principles: darker where there must be shadows, etc.
And here is the result, where you can see that a view from below shows the darker zones.
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#137
Posted 20 April 2012 - 09:10 AM
I will show you another 2E with # 65 and Phil Hill's head (at least the shape of the helmet) in few days.
But now...
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#138
Posted 20 April 2012 - 12:22 PM
Très magnifique!
#139
Posted 20 April 2012 - 01:11 PM
It is a real pleasure to see the wing move every time the car brakes or accelerates.
This gives life to the car and participates to the fact that the 2E Cox is my favorite slot car!
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#140
Posted 20 April 2012 - 02:00 PM
Jairus H Watson - Artist
Need something painted, soldered, carved, or killed? - jairuswtsn@aol.com
www.slotcarsmag.com
www.jairuswatson.net
http://www.ratholecustoms.com
Check out some of the cool stuff on my Fotki!
#141
Posted 28 April 2012 - 06:12 AM
I applaud you
"... a good and wholesome thing is a little harmless fun in this world; it tones a body up and keeps him human and prevents him from souring." - Mark Twain
#142
Posted 25 June 2012 - 02:03 AM
Yesterday I was adjusting the wing rods and their corresponding pits on the 2E bodies. I want to point out that it is necessary to have a tight fit in order to maximize the actuator's effect on the wing itself. Otherwise the rods will move and this movement will diminish the rotation of the wing.
Here are pictures of the parts (few originals and the result of the casting I made) and of the blank fitting before painting (well, although the wings are not painted they got a coat of primer).
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#144
Posted 28 June 2012 - 06:02 AM
Remember, two wrongs don't make a right... but three lefts do! Only you're a block over and a block behind.
#145
Posted 28 June 2012 - 08:53 AM
Jean-Michel, do you take these cars to the track for testing or are they just for the shelf? Either way is no big deal, but I am interested in whether you also take the effort to be sure the cars preform at least as well as they did when new.
Jairus H Watson - Artist
Need something painted, soldered, carved, or killed? - jairuswtsn@aol.com
www.slotcarsmag.com
www.jairuswatson.net
http://www.ratholecustoms.com
Check out some of the cool stuff on my Fotki!
#146
Posted 28 June 2012 - 12:44 PM
Indeed all the Cox Chaparral with # 65 (not only the 2E but also the 2A) will have a sculpted helmet based on Phill Hill's one.
Quite easy to do if you take a look at the pictures I posted on that topic.
Jairus, I also take them on the track. With Ortmann tires.
Now, among all those I restored/built, "only" 4 Chaparral 2E shall be for me. Those four are 2 genuine Cox cars that will from time to time be used on the track for the parade and 2 copies that I will more likely play with.
I chose a different livery for the copies, by the way.
What will my friends do with their 2E (among which Don Siegel, for whom I restored a 2E few years ago), I do not know. I guess that at least 2 would rather stay on the shelf with some times a gentleman's drive.
One thing for sure: when well assembled, the wing moves extremely well and it is a real pleasure to see it.
By not using a Cox 2E, you would miss this magic feeling that makes you figure out that this is the real thing (in our still childish brain of course).
Because of this, the Cox 2E is my favorite slot car.
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#147
Posted 28 August 2012 - 03:54 PM
I'm about to complete five 2Es.
And could not find the copies of actuators I made or the silicon mould! I only found one imperfect resin copy, with air bubbles.
So I thought of making another mould from this resin part when I had a second thought. Indeed the genuine part (or its exact replica) is far from perfect. Not strong enough, too narrow as for the area that slides into the engine can, which implied as we have seen to modify the part by adding something. Efficient but not so elegant. Then I remembered what TSR once answered to a member, something like "better use a plastic bit and cut an actuator into it"...
He was definitely right: by sculpting a thick plasticard foil, I could have an actuator at the correct size by widening a little the part where needed.
Well, not one, I had 5 to do ...
But am-I a plastic surgeon or not ?
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#148
Posted 28 August 2012 - 08:15 PM
Yes you are J-M.But am-I a plastic surgeon or not ?
Beautiful work.
Steve King
#149
Posted 29 August 2012 - 02:01 AM
As we somewhat go back in the process, see an enhancement, here is another one...
For those five cars I decided to improve the pilot by adding the sponsor badge and the names. There shall be 2 different liveries for the cars and then there is 2 different set of decals for the sponsors:
The names are painted.
I used this picture as an inspiration for one of the 2 liveries:
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