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Thingies: what were they all about?


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#176 Mark H

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Posted 17 December 2011 - 07:05 PM

<p style="margin-left: 40px">damn you Jairus i was bidding on that lol, you sure rebuilt it purdy though!</p>

Mark Haas




#177 Jairus

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Posted 17 December 2011 - 07:23 PM

Sorry Mark, I had my limit set... you should have pushed it further. ^_^ At any rate the parts will end up in three new projects so nothing goes to waste.

Jairus H Watson - Artist
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#178 Mark H

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Posted 17 December 2011 - 08:31 PM

haha its all good. i know its in good hands
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#179 havlicek

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Posted 18 December 2011 - 07:48 AM

Oh my (small "g") god Jairus. How are you going to drive that thing(ie)!? Of the total 95g, how much is motor?

-john
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#180 One27ray

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Posted 18 December 2011 - 10:08 AM

Looking good there Brother J!!

Wow! you make it look so easy :good: I can see way they went to the deepdish style of body- real air-scoopers- to help keep the chassis slammed down on the track!
I'm molding some of the other Deepdish styles and others to take advantage of this style of chassis :wub:
i-ray

PS, now to get together a motor lol. John does some fine work !
Ray Fellows

#181 Jairus

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Posted 18 December 2011 - 10:19 AM

Good morning John!
You know how much a "B" can Mura weighs don't you? It's a LUMP and weighs nearly half the total car at 40g+. I thought about cutting down the can much like an article I saw in a Model Car Science. DC-65X did it in a thread here a short time back.

Of course if I could ask you to build me a killer thinwall Mubuchi motor with a vintage Mura endbell? :)
(I got all the parts here.)

Jairus H Watson - Artist
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#182 Jairus

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Posted 18 December 2011 - 03:43 PM

Okay, here's the Mule all ready for road testing! I hogged on some paint late last night. Nothing fancy and probably won't go any further with the detailing on this one.
Posted Image

Posted Image

Motor has been bench tested at 2v for about 3 minutes to make sure the gear is worked in nicely. The motor sounds about as close to the scream a modern wing car makes and is nearly as responsive! Not sure what magnets John put in, but they definitely look ceramic.
BTW those heat sinks really work as they get pretty warm...
But, as I mentioned, the motor is still fairly heavy! I think for this car to go any faster I'll need to see about building one that is about 10 grams lighter.
Posted Image
Going into the mail tomorrow.
Guide is a Jet Flag dyed black.
Front wheels unknown, prob. U-Go.
Rear wheels unknown.
Body by O2R.
Motor Mura.
Gears Parma/Cox 7/28.
B)

Jairus H Watson - Artist
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#183 havlicek

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Posted 18 December 2011 - 03:54 PM

Looks deadly Jairus. I just hope that arm was done AFTER I started welding the com tabs! On the weight aspect, it seems to me that the weight of the motor in this case just might be a good thing...but what do I know?! The other thing that struck me is the front axle mounting seems awfully fragile.

-john
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#184 Gator Bob

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Posted 18 December 2011 - 03:55 PM

Looks Great, Jairus..


I'm staying tuned.

BTW: What is the thickness of the body?
Posted Image
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#185 endbelldrive

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Posted 18 December 2011 - 04:06 PM

Looking great! Body flex can be your friend if the forces are applied to the right spots on the chassis. Happy testing, J! :)
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#186 Jairus

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Posted 18 December 2011 - 04:29 PM

Thanks Bob! Testing is everything and Bryan is the best in the biz!

Looks deadly Jairus. I just hope that arm was done AFTER I started welding the com tabs! On the weight aspect, it seems to me that the weight of the motor in this case just might be a good thing...but what do I know?! The other thing that struck me is the front axle mounting seems awfully fragile.

-john

Yes the com tabs are welded. You sent me this motor last year with hand made bussbars. (which I swapped out for a more period correct endbell and hardware.)
As for the front axle, the body would have to be torn away or damaged to get at the axle with enough force to rip 3/4" of silver solder joint. I think it will bend before breaking. But that too is part of the test!

Looks Great, Jairus..


I'm staying tuned.

BTW: What is the thickness of the body?

Body is .020 Petg pulled by Brother Ray and painted with Parma acrylics.

Jairus H Watson - Artist
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#187 Gator Bob

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Posted 18 December 2011 - 06:07 PM

I love the matching Tan Tires and stripes too :)

Hey, Nice Body Ray ! :good:
Posted Image
                            Bob Israelite

#188 Mark H

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Posted 18 December 2011 - 08:53 PM

Cool car! :good:
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#189 havlicek

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Posted 19 December 2011 - 07:42 AM

I'll bet that bad boy is stupid fast (it looks fast just sitting there)...and will heat up a controller too!

-john
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#190 One27ray

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Posted 19 December 2011 - 08:25 AM

Hey J.

I can make the body in .015 and/or .010 to reduce weight too, but don't know if the structural integered would hold up? BTW really cool slammer man!!

i-ray
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#191 Jairus

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Posted 19 December 2011 - 10:30 AM

Hey Ray, if people want to go vintage in the chassis, I think we really SHOULD go vintage with regard to the plastic thickness. .020 is the industry standard today with most vintage cars cast in .030! Lets just stay .020 okay?

(P.S. Interesting Edo and George are silent...)

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#192 One27ray

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Posted 19 December 2011 - 11:28 AM

Hey J,

No problem, .020 would be fine with me, .030 does make it heavier and prone to cracking on impack. Proably why we don't see a lot of bodies from that period? espeacially the Onewinger with the tall side wing.

i-ray
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#193 HarV Wallbanger III

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Posted 19 December 2011 - 01:12 PM

Jairus are the heat sinks aluminum? If not there is some weight also....

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#194 Bill from NH

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Posted 19 December 2011 - 01:36 PM

Heatsinks appear to be copper. Hi-Pro in CT made & sold copper ones like these in the mid-70's. :)
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#195 Jairus

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Posted 19 December 2011 - 01:49 PM

I am building a new motor with same power as that Mura but 10 grams less weight. The heat sinks will be aluminum and hand cut. That will be the motor for the second test. ;-)

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#196 draggon

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Posted 19 December 2011 - 05:52 PM

I'm getting confused. My home track was rough, so we ( at least me ) always ran drop arms, usually 3/4 or so solid brass. Frames were piano wire, two or three rails, with outriggers for mounting the body, and a little weight there seemed to aid the handling. Whenever floppy pans came in ( 67? 68? ) I added those. My best handling thingie was pretty close to the designs of then current angle winders, just as an inline. A Pink Mura had no trouble pulling the weight. That was in 1969. As you can see, what I ran back then was nothing like the U-go frames. Also as far as the body goes, as I read it, no stapled on wings, but thats what we did. Rays one-winger looks just like our did after stapling on that wing. So what is it? No one made those one wingers back then.
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#197 Jairus

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Posted 19 December 2011 - 06:24 PM

I don't think we are going to go so far as to say 'no drop arms' and limit chassis design too much as long as it is in the "Spirit of the time period". Indeed by 1970 pan chassis with plumber movement was the norm on the shop wall and in the Pro-racers slot box.
But the trend on the West Coast was indeed toward lighter weight fully aero based designs and that was what we want to explore in this race.

But this race will be on two very swoopy Kings. I don't think there will be much need for movement.

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#198 One27ray

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Posted 19 December 2011 - 06:31 PM

Humm..

According to Dave Larson," The Vitter " they did make the Onewinger back then and raced it. If I recall, LSCM brought the one on e-bay that someone was selling back a few years ago, a Vintage 60's Choti Onewinger body .

:D

PS check out Daves old thread on this subject- He explains it all.
Ray Fellows

#199 Jairus

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Posted 19 December 2011 - 07:47 PM

Which thread Ray?
I found this one....http://www.slotforum...opic=19770&st=0

Lots of great Thingie info shared there, Glenn included, that explains what it was like back in the day.

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#200 One27ray

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Posted 20 December 2011 - 08:54 AM

+++

I'm refuring to the thread that had this onewinger build by Dave- not sure if it was here or at SF

Posted Image

where he explained the history etc. of W/C Onewinger :search:
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