1275 replies to this topic

[Jairus]

Yes, that is legal.

[Gator Bob]

I decided not to cut up that chassis I posted.

To be clear, the photos of the chassis or whole car are due 8/27 for panel review?

[Jairus]

At least! Earlier is better.

[Mark Johnson]

This is my attempt at a chassis . all brass is .063 except the .040 nosepiece .

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[Maximo]

Looks really great! What 27/27 armature are you packing?

[Mark Johnson]

That is a Thorp 27 double on a 5 thou blank courtesy of Rich Kraft .The 6 tooth pinion
came from Bill Fernald . Those two pieces made this possible .Rick Thigpen sold me
a b can for this build but my efforts to lighten it rendered it unstable so plan c was used.
Period correct rear wheels are being shod to replace the ones on the car .It is still a bit
of a pig at 109.5 grams , but the motor seems up to the task .
Mark

[Pablo]

In reference to post # 552,
Can someone direct me to the text where is says the photo deadline is Aug 27 ?

Also, sorry Mark Johnson, but I see your pans are managed via wires floating inside square tubes.
Rule 11 states :

• No shaker or centerline hinge pans.
• I consider wires inside tubes to be shakers.
• I'm sure Jairus will tell me if I am right or wrong.
• It sure is a nice car, though !!

[Jairus]

I have no problem with the rear pan limiters. The front tubes, if they allow the pan to move forward and back, do qualify the framework to be a shaker. If they are simply pivot points then the pans are only plumbers. So I guess I have to ask Mark if the front pivots allow more movement than a hinge?

[Pablo]

Mark, unless the timing on that arm is backwards, the crown gear is on backwards. That arm should be clockwise at the can end, and the crown should be on the opposite side. I'm just guessing from what I see

[Gator Bob]

Nice job Mark.

Small boxes up front, big boxes in rear, looks like a plumber to me.

That Thorp is probobly old enough to be a CCW that was destinded for a anglewinder with endbell mounting.

[Pablo]

"That Thorp is probobly old enough to be a CCW that was destinded for a anglewinder with endbell mounting"

Bob, if that is true, and I don't doubt it, you just agreed with me. If it was CCw at EB, it would be CW at can.
He has the crown in place for a CCW at can end. That is at least ONE car I can beat right from the git go

[Gator Bob]

Maybe the batteries are in backwards ... on my clock.

I meant CCCW (if you're looking in a mirror while sitting on the can)

[Pablo]

My "secret source" of wisdom confirms, Thorpe did make arms advanced in BOTH directions.
So, Marks car would be correct, assuming the timing is reverse.

[Gator Bob]

Both ways at the same time?

Thorp arms were very advanced for their time......

[Jairus]

Looking at Mark's car I would say he knows what he is doing. Therefore I personally would not question the motor rotation...

As for the deadline for posting on the forum.
It was not made a 'hard and fast rule' till both races were cemented. Now, with the first race set for September 30th and accounting for shipping times.... I would say that the cars should be post marked in the US no later than Monday the 24th to make it to Randy in time. (European times should be at least 7-10 days sooner)
That said, we the "pack" should be given at least two weeks time before mailing to examine and ask the builder questions, if needed, which puts the drop dead date for posting about September 10th. This is to provide the builder a good chance to make changes. (If need be)
So... the Benevolent Dictator states it and so it shall be! I will make the changes to the rules in red that the drop dead date to post on the forum is September 10th, when and where you MUST post three pictures of your entry, that of: Body on 3/4 view, body on underneath shot and body off top shot showing the chassis clearly either from the side or 3/4 view.

Respectfully submitted,

[Pablo]

Thanks for making that clear, Jairus. 10 Sept deadline for photo submission, and first race on 30 Sept.
I am not clear on, who is "Randy", and where do I send my car ?

[Jairus]

Randy Tragni is the track director of the first round at Eddie's Slot World. Address to be announced. First I need to get Randy the final poster design so he can put it up at the track.

[Pablo]

Cool, Jairus. I (wrongly) guessed that BP would be the first race, since that was the first track mentioned in your post # 1.

I know who Randy Tragni is My confusion is cleared up Frisco, Baby, as Big Durl would say !! I love San Francisco / Bay area !!
You have not eaten sour dough bread until you go to SF area !! I left my heart in SF

[Mark Johnson]

The car is a plumber the front tubes are square .063 the wire is about .060 so it does shake .003. The arm is clockwise rotaion so
the gear is on the correct side . If you want me to solder the front solid I can do that if it's needed to remove the three thousands
of slack .

[Jairus]

It's fine with me as long as nobody else wants to lodge a formal protest.
(Every racer gets 2 formal protests by the way)

[Mark Johnson]

[Edo]

Hide your children and your women!

Be very afraid DESMO DEVIL is coming (soon enough)!



E

[Bill from NH]

The car is a plumber the front tubes are square...

Mark, whose motor bracket did you use? Is it a modified BWA?

[stevefzr]

Did some testing tonight. It's a 100km round trip to the track and my lead wire broke off in a couple of laps. The track doesn't have a customer soldering iron, but the guy behind the counter soldered in on in a second, which is half as long as it took to come off again :-( By then he was busy racing. Lucky I had two other cars with me. So, it looks like at least one more 100K trip before I pick which car to enter. To make it easier to choose, can you tell me if they're all legal? All three are running Choti repops. All cars have vintage wheels. The 26D powered car even has threaded axles.

Car #1. It's a UGO chassis I think with a Mura b can and a tagged Grp 7 arm.




Car #2. This is a Mura chassis with a rewound 26D motor. It wasn't as fast as the other two. It seems like it needs a little weight in the front, which I didn't expect as it's the heaviest car by quite a bit.




Car #3. Another UGO chassis I assume. This also has a B Can mura, but this time with an untagged arm that looks the same as the Grp 7 arm.




Rust aside, do they meet the rules?

Regards,

Steve C

[Jairus]

As far as parts YES, if chassis width remains 3".

I like chassis #3 might be the best over all if it's straight and flat.
Chassis #2 will probably handle best tho. You might mix and match the motors and chassis. Plus add lots of tongue weight.

One trick I learned was to mount the body as far forward as possible. I messed up on my first two cars. Now I have to paint over the wheel openings and change the front body mount to get the body forward where it will do the most good in the turns.