159 replies to this topic

[dc-65x]

Am I right in assuming 3" track width and no model airplane tires, even if they are pre-64???

Period sponge rubber tires like the "Germans" pictured here in the Mini Auto packaging are OK with me (I hope the other members of the rules committee will agree??):



Having said that, our rather extensive testing has shown that modern repop tires of urethane like Ortmann's or Paul's of Canada work better.

I was able to see Rodney's project in person at our local track a couple of weeks ago and he informed me of this thread. I always get excited when Rodney allows me the opportunity to see the progress of his latest slot car project. Very KOOL!

Cap'n Rick Sir! What color have you planned for your body please?

All moved in now Capt'n?

Thank you.

Ernie

Hi Ernie,

I think my car will be yellow too. I suggested the color as it seemed very "So Cal" racer to me...almost "hot roddish"

Yes, we're all moved in but I'm really Jones'n for my own track!

[boxerdog]

Thanks, Rick. I have some period Germans and others which I wanted to try, but I have run some Ortmanns also. I will do whatever y'all recommend as within the rules. It's my wooden brick of a body that has me concerned.......and 3"???

[dc-65x]

Hi David,

I've put the tire matter to the other members of the rules committee and hopefully they will agree. The more period parts the better me thinks .

I would think that the track width should be guided by the real cars overall body dimensions. Generally speaking, I don't think it would be "Korrect" to see any of these cars with a track width over 3".

[Noose]

These are all very cool. Right now though any wood I have is being burned for heat so don't leave any laying around. LOL

[Tom Thumb Hobbies]

Still?? That sucks.

[dc-65x]

Am I right in assuming 3" track width and no model airplane tires, even if they are pre-64???

Well David, the vote was 2 against 1 so it looks like for simplicity sake, Germans are being excluded.

In the future, I'll do what I should have done in the first place.....find out what the rest of the rules committee think and THEN comment.

Sorry for the confusion guys.

But, by all means try Germans on your car. I'll have a pair made up for mine. But for the proxy race just use some Ortmann's or Pauls Slot Car Shop urethane tires (available on his ebay store).

Noose, I hope you and everyone affected by Sandy has things back to normal as possible soon.

[boxerdog]

I'm not sure the Germans would have come back to life anyway, but I may try a set just for fun. I am dragging out a handful of "no-can" cars to see which might have potential.

[dc-65x]

Progress report on Rodney's racer.

Rodney's car #3 is completed. It is using a Pittman DC65X (what else?  ), a Cox brass chassis, 48 pitch gearing at 4:1 ratio, Cox screw type guide and Paul's repop K&B Goodyear Stock Car Special tires:

 

 

The car ran well but Rodney wanted to try another version so he made another body . It's the #3 below with the stripes on the fenders. The #4 is one Rodney carved for me and it's mine.....ALL MINE! They are shown on a picture of the car that inspired Rodney's design:

 

 

This body got an all scratch built "low CG" chassis of thick brass rod with pretty much the same power train:

 

 

 

This car also ran great and was renumbered to Lucky #13 to help tell all these cars apart!

 

 

To help get all these cars to the track Rodney built a car hauler! The driver of car #13 likes his ride so much he won't even get out of it when it's on the hauler

 

 

 

The hauler is powered by a Pittman DC85 torque monster motor"

 

 

Here's a look at the ladder type chassis:
 

 

Now we're done except for me building up my #4 car right? Well......no. Rodney carved a new #3 car with wider bass wood fenders . It's the one below with the red strips on the fat fenders:

 

 

 

 

The two bodies on the right are in my hands now. I'm building up a different style chassis for my #4 car now........

 

Onward

[Gary Bluestone]

Amazing stuff, really like the hauler!"Take me to your ladder, I'll see your leader later" Is that the Revell 37 Ford Pickup cab ? Where do those red wheels come from?

[slotbaker]

Old Yeller II, yep, can see the resemblance.

Love it.

How come right hand drive tho?

[dc-65x]

Where do those red wheels come from?

They came off of an Ebay auction. I saw a set of blue ones there today in the 1/24 vintage section.
 

How come right hand drive tho?

I forget what Rodney told me about them being right had drive. He made the last "wide body" car left hand drive.

[Jairus]

Well, that does it... getting my entry out for some bench time! 

Beautiful cars there Rick!  Transporter too...

[Alchemist]

I saw Rodney's truck hauler and race car in person - exceptional!!!

 

Ernie

[dc-65x]

Thanks guys, Rodney does a great job for sure!

[Regis4446]

beautiful work of Rodney.

Thank you for the photos.

I like the spirit

[Tex]

Very cool project!

[dc-65x]

Thanks guys
 
Okie Dokie, time to build my #4 car. Here's the heart of the beast, a new old stock Pittman DC-65X (6-volt) motor:
 

 
I first checked the magnet strength of this almost 50 year old beast:
 

 
A quick ZAP.......
 

 
....and she's freshened up....
 

 
....and ready for some oil and for a couple hours of break in .
 
For gearing I chose a Weldun 61 tooth 64 pitch crown gear that's a little less than 1" in diameter. The pinion is a modern Sonic 15 tooth job (reamed out to an ID of .0925") for a ratio of 4.067:1. The thunderous power will be held in check by some modern 1/8" ball bearings:
 

 
For a rear end, I'm using a pair of brackets I designed. They are inspired from Kemtron pieces but the rear axle tube rides in a slot instead of a hole to allow for different wheel diameters. I fabricated the prototype pair and then had a few sets laser cut.
 

 
The assembled unit on top is set up for 1/4" bearings. The parts below are for the 3/16" oilite bearings Rodney will be running.
 
Time to come up with a 1964 style chassis............

[slotbaker]

[Gary Bluestone]

What type of gadget is used to measure the magnetism. I'm still using my Monogram meter which is a glorified compass .

[dc-65x]

Hi Gary,

 

I'm using this Wright Way Gauss Meter. I really like that I can set the magnet or whole motor on the unit's grid and get consistent measurements. The probe is kind of a pain as every tiny spot on the magnet gives a different reading. But sometimes the probe is all you can use so it's good to have it as an option:

 

[Gary Bluestone]

Thanks , that is a cool piece of gear.

[Alchemist]

Hi Rick,

 

You craftsmanship to me, is surgically precise - always exciting to see your work Rick!

 

Happy Holidays to you and the family!  

 

Ernie

[dc-65x]

Thanks Ernie and Happy Holidays to you and all my fellow Slotblogers.
 
I made some progress on the chassis. I've waffled more on the design of this chassis than any other in recent memory. I couldn't even decide on the style of drop arm. In looking through the old 1964 magazines I saw both brass tube and brass sheet styles.
 
I couldn't stop waffling between the two so I decided to use both materials. I also made up sheet brass front motor mounts:
 


Everything bolts together like so:


 
 
 
Everything is setup in my Rick's R-Geo chassis jig.
 

 
I think I know the design direction I want to head in so here we go.......

[dc-65x]

To finish off the drop arm I modified a Classic guide weight:

 

 

I cut out a pocket in the bottom so the weight would sit down flush with the bottom of the drop arm. The groove in the top is for a down stop rod to sit in. The sides of the weight will contact the inner frame rails to solidly locate the drop arm, side to side:

 

 

I decided to go with a "space frame" like we used to build at our Southern California raceway back in the early 1960's:

 

 

 

I based the design on a 36D sidewinder chassis shown in the Russkit Booklet "Speed Secrets - Complete Step by Step Instructions". The chassis also shows up in Russkit magazine ads sitting in a Russkit Adjusto Jig:

 

 

 

This may not be the best choice if the cars are "hammered" during the race like a modern car. This car has a heavy tall body and this style chassis is not going to help get its CG any lower....but I just love them:

 

 

If I'm lucky, the mass of the motor will be enough to keep this car from being a "tilting pig". If not I guess I can pile some extra weight on the drop arm

 

Time to mount that body....finally!

[Tex]

Lookin' at shiny brass on Christmas morn... YIPPEE!