224 replies to this topic

[dc-65x]

Great car Don!

 

I'll zap that sucker . Send it my way. I'll have to take the motor out of the chassis. That isn't a problem is it?

 

One thing, I worry about are those darn plastic hub Cox gears. The screws strip at the worst time, especially with all the power of the mighty KTM motor  .

[don.siegel]

Well Rick, good news and bad news - doesn't matter if the gears strip, because the builder GLUED the gear to the axle... of course, if you have to remove the axle, the builder GLUED the gear to the axle... guess he had some of these strip as well.... Now, normally, I would have stripped everything off and redone the rear end, but it seemed to be running very smoothly, and I was short of time this spring, so I left it as it was.

 

The rest of the chassis unscrews pretty normally, altho there are a lot of spacers in there...

 

Despite your snide comment, I think you'll be pleasantly surprised by the POWER of the mighty KTM!

 

Don

[dc-65x]

No "snideism" implied Don . If that KTM is anything like the Aristocraft (I think they might be brothers) it will be a strong runner for sure.

 

I poke fun at all the "non-Mabuchi" motors of old. I think one of my build threads even had "The Mighty Kemtron" in the title .

[don.siegel]

Right you are Rick, and I was just kidding of course... You bring up a good point too: I often get KTM and Aristocraft mixed up, and have wondered about that, even though they're not quite the same. 

 

My "Scarab" is ready now, and should be heading off to you this weekend! 

 

Last photos, with mirrors! 

 

 

 

 

 

 

PS: okay you experts: I rotated the last photo in photoshop 90° clockwise, and saved it. Then when it reverted to this after uploading, I rotated it again in photobucket and saved it. But now that it's published, it reverted to the original orientation again - why? 

[endbelldrive]

What kind of tires are running on that car, Don?

[don.siegel]

Hi Bob,

 

Pretty sure those are Paul Gage urethanes on the rear, possibly the K&B stock car repros.

 

Don

[endbelldrive]

Thanks, Don.  I better order up set quickly.

[don.siegel]

Paul's a fast shipper Bob, and he's a lot closer to you than to me! 

 

The tires are marked Goodyear on the side, so I think they are the K&B stocker repros. 

 

Don 

[dc-65x]

Hi Bob,

 

Here's a link to:

 

Pauls Slot Car Shop

 

He's got a soft (XPG) and firm compound. I ended up using the firmer to help prevent the dreaded "tilting"

 

In 1/24 scale he's got repops of Cox Goodyear, Firestone, Dunlop, K&B Goodyears and mondo Buzco Firestones....maybe more.

[Jaak]

Here are some (old) progress shots of my entry.

 

I have been notified the guide is incorrect and that will be changed.

The motor is a Pittman 196B with beveled gears.

 

The axles and wheels are from Pendles I believe to be Penolepe pitlane wheels, I am aware that the rim diameter is to small but they where the best I could find.

The outer diameter with the tires is the correct 1:24 size.

 

The rear of the car is also being reworked as it was to fat and nearly done, might be able to finish it today if all works along.

At this stage the body is a good bit further and reaching completion...more photo's will follow.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Jaak]

Had found some more in between photo's on a SD card

[dc-65x]

Nice TR3 Jaak. Have you decided on a livery yet?

[Jaak]

Hey RIck thanks for the compliment.

 

It will be British racing green and numbered No 77 ofcourse

 

 

As promised some more progress photo's.

 

During painting..

 

 

A view of the nearly completed modified rear.

 

Driver Jan during surgery...he will be missing some bits when competing with the other racers

 

 

Modified chassis to attach it to the body mounting posts, just need to drill the holes in it.

 

 

 

[dc-65x]

Hmmmmm, shiny brass,  nice!

[Jairus]

Weight is your friend with these cars Jaak. Don't drill too many holes. 

[Jaak]

Hehehe I meant holes for the screw to mount it to the body 

I realized after my "Big Bertha" heavy Flambee #77 in the Lucky13 that my comment about drilling holes might be misread.

Keeping the brass as low as possible to improve the center of Gravity.

[Jaak]

Things where going good here except for one thing that is the paint..  

 

I got British racing Green Rustoleum all surfaces paint and I layed down 4 thin layers the day before yesterday and the Paint states a 24 hour total drying time.

So after that I today started polishing the paint to get the extra shine and the paint came off very fast as it was still not totaly dry I noticed.

 

I just cleaned and repainted it again and after it stood in the paint booth for an hour I wanted to move it to a safe place to let it dry and it fell of the stand

No reall biggie as it seems I can polish out what is on it but I am going to have to give it 3 days drying time at least or so it seems before I can continue 

 

I adapted the driver to fit and have the mounting posts sorted also the grill and other bits are done. 

 

The last things now is to fabricate some kind of interior and finish the paint properly... 

I would have had it totaly finished this weekend if that paint did what it describes on the package.

[Bruce Wayne]

Jaak,

Let that be a lesson to you! Unless you have a year for the paint job to dry fully, never use Rust   leum on your models again!

Their paints are some kind of funky hybrid enamel (I've heard it's made with a fish oil base, but not really certain), which can take months to dry, but has a naturally smooth gloss finish that shouldn't require any polishing or rubbing out. If you can spray on a good, smooth final coat, just leave it be. I wouldn't try and spray any clear over it either unless it had dried for a few months. One rule of thumb I have found is even after a week or two if you can still smell the paint on the model when held up to your nose, it's not fully dry.

 

Of course hindsight is 20-20, but from now on a better choice for your models is a fast drying hobby lacquer, such as Tamiya Spray Lacquers. TS-43 Racing Green is a good match for BRG...

http://www.tamiyausa...72/TS-chart.pdf

 

Good luck and take your time finishing the other details, no sense rushing it now

 

[dc-65x]

I knew the Tamiya Spray Lacquers are great paints but I didn't know that Rustoleum was that bad.

 

Thanks for the heads up!

[Jairus]

No worries Jaak.  We waiting patiently for the grand unveiling. Take your time sir.

[Jaak]

Thanks for the heads up Bruce.

 

The coats I got on are misty so I do need to polish it, but with what you are telling me I will go with the Tamiya paint and see how I can get the Rustoleum paint off in some friendly way.

I looked at the Tamiya can's but was not totally satisfied with the color and this Rustoleum looked perfect....little did I know   ...TS 43 Green it will be.

 

 

Already made good progress on the Interior so the biggest hurdle for now is the paint and finishing the headlights.
 

I re-sized a photo of original headlights but at this small size it is slightly grainy but still good, I will put a drop of PVA glue on it to simulate a lens and hope that works.

 

 

 

 

Rick I wish I knew too ..I do know now and will never forget.

 

 

Thanks Jairus,

Appreciate the patience.
Friday I could see a finished car on Sunday..Maybe I had the wrong Sunday in mind.

 

 

 

Bob,

 

Hope you are ok and doing well mate 

[Bruce Wayne]

Jaak,

 

Unless you can sand 99% of the Rustoleum off, I would think again about using Tamiya paints now.

 

An old painting axiom is...

..."you can paint enamel over lacquer, but you can't paint lacquer over enamel". This is mainly due to the fact that lacquers have a "hotter" thinner, which when sprayed over enamel can dissolve the underlying paint and cause other problems such as wrinkling or crazing..

 

Sure, modern paint formulas have changed and every situation is a little different, but in any case I would advise proceeding with caution if you choose to go ahead with the Tamiya. Decanting the paint and spraying light coats through an airbrush might reduce the chances, but still be very careful about how "wet" your coats are.

 

I think the Rustoleum will still be okay if you sand it down with some fine grit paper and respray it. If you can apply a good wet coat without runs or sags, it should prove to be both smooth, glossy and durable right out of the can with no rubbing needed.

[Jaak]

Thanks Bruce,

After you made your comment I wen't Googling and found out that some people used it and that it still not cured after 2 years.

I think my only option is to get it all off somehow and use Tamiya paint.

 

 

Here are some pictures of my Rustoleum paint debacle..

 

Previous paint cured for 3 days instead of the 24 hrs it says it needs....and was still soft resulting in me repainting it again and finding out it will probably never cure properly

Going to have to take all the paint off and repaint it ...this time with Tamiya paint.

 

 

 

Here it shows the dirt that got stuck to it after it fell from the stand in my paintbooth after 1 hour drying.

 

[dc-65x]

That's a shame Jaak. Your body looks great and I'm sure it will be worth the extra effort.

[Jaak]

Thanks Rick Glad you like it   

After the amount of sanding and remodeling I did on this car no effort is to much anymore.
Now looking for the best way to remove the still "wet" Rustoleum.