286 replies to this topic

[Pablo]

First time in my life I've been looking for less horsepower

[Pablo]

This one sounds pretty healthy too, I'll try a 7 tooth pinion and see what happens........

 

[SlotStox#53]

First time in my life I've been looking for less horsepower

makes a change!

 

Loving the look of the next powerplant The cooler spec arm looks sweet inside the bare metal can...

 

Are those the Mura can/endbell screws? WIll have to get some as they look neat and I remember them to be pretty tough.

[BWA]

Less horsepower and, no grip are my middle names.

[Pablo]

I'm not sure if they are Mura, Paul, but they fit a standard wheel size allen wrench.

PCH carries them.

[SlotStox#53]

Thanks Pablo Certainly look nice & neat on the motor

[Bill from NH]

Are those the Mura can/endbell screws? WIll have to get some as they look neat and I remember them to be pretty tough.

 

Paul, TQ also sells nice self-tapping screws for mounting endbells. They're 1/8" long, button head, driven with a .050 allen wrench, & are chrome plated. They once sold black ones too, but I don't think they do now. The black ones would rust.

[Pablo]

This is the last .063 tubing chassis I will ever build. Too flexible, despite the .032 wire inside the tubes.  The handling was not good, and it failed the crash test.

I came real close to dismantling it, but decided to give it one more chance.  Here she is with an additional outer rail of .063 rod, and flag stops. 

[Bill from NH]

What motor are you putting in it the next time? Take a piece of Slick 7 lead with you to your next track test.

[Pablo]

Bill, see post 198.  I'm saving the Okeefe motor for a future car that can handle all that horsepower.

 

The car is ready for track test # 2, on 4 January.

 

Closeup of the Noose driver and Warmack mirrors:

 

[Tex]

Good luck with the test session; looks good. Don't be afraid to narrow the rears if you have too much grip.

[Pablo]

OK.  I rounded the edges off some more, for now.

[endbelldrive]

The plot thickens.  Another trick is to run a lap or two without the front wheels.  It will give you a little more feedback and helps fine tune the chassis.  Modern retros have the advantage of low front clearance which makes chassis tuning a little different...maybe easier.  

[Pablo]

That's a great tip, Bob   Never thought or heard of that before.  Thanks.

Sounds like you are a member of the "Fronts can do more harm than good" Club

[n.elmholt]

In Denmark, we started the retro f1 class in 2008, inspired by the US D3 Class. Until 2010 we raced on 15mm rubber tires and the chassis/cars got lighter and lighter, culminating with extremely light chassis with barely any metal in them.
We use the Fox 10 motor (similar to Plafit Fox) which lookes like the Falcon but is a 25K motor.

In 2010, due to supply issues, we allowed the use of foam tires and since then the cars are getting much faster and also much heavier to take advantage of the added grip. In the beginning, some of the lightweight car has problems with "tilting" on high grip tracks and the solution was to mount more narrow rears and add weight to the cars. Today we race 100-110g cars and have great fun on both wood and plastic tracks :-)

Niels

[Pablo]

Thanks, Niels, I appreciate that input. 

One thing that limits this type car is, the width is 2 3/4" maximum. My first time to build a car with such narrow track !

 

Your suggestion of more weight and less rear tires is something I'm looking into.

[n.elmholt]

Paul, our rules says max. 30mm chassis width and 76mm total width

http://dmru.dk/onewe...g._CanAm_F1.pdf

Niels

[Bill from NH]

Niels, have you only gotten the heavier F1 cars but adding weight to what you were running? Or are there some new chassis designs that use more sheet brass or maybe thicker sheet brass? I'm not experienced running on Carrera or other brands of plastic track. Does the plastic track you run on like cars to have stiff chassis or does it call for a chassis to have a moderate amount of flex?

[Jocke P]

Niels, what foam tires work best for you?

[dc-65x]

Problem:

 

1966 slot car technology + modern high grip tires + modern high grip spray glued track = tilting

 

Solution:

 

Firmer, lower grip level tires that match the 1966 technology slot car

[Pablo]

I hear ya.  If this next track test is not good, I have one more set of orange donuts to try.

Good thing we are not racing to a deadline

[n.elmholt]

Bill etc

We use both. The traditional wire and droparm chassis + lead below motor and on droparm + a newer, more heavy chassis built from brass plate.

Pics of the chassis here: https://picasaweb.go...1968TypeSlotCar

We use same type of chassis on both plastic and wood.

Tires are mostly Black Magic from Sigma, which is a much used tyre for Scale racing in Europe.

Niels

[dc-65x]

I hear ya.  If this next track test is not good, I have one more set of orange donuts to try.

Good thing we are not racing to a deadline

 

I've got a good supply and I'll be glad to hook you up with some. I haven't tried those on an R&C car yet and I'm curious to see how they work.

[Pablo]

Cool, thanks !

[SlotStox#53]

 

I've got a good supply

Rick's Riggen warehouse !   Sounds like you've got the tire/handling thing sorted Pablo with all the great ideas and info from everyone here's to that perfect track test and another Pablo car for display