91 replies to this topic

[Steve Okeefe]

Clever idea! 

 

Hmmm...

 

How about turning the diameter of the screw-head down to 3/32" so it would be flush with the tubing?

 

However, the whole assembly (reduced diameter screw-head or not) should not be much more than 11/64" (.172") tall.

 

In the end though this would be a repair, so the post would be a prosthetic, not an upgrade.  Sort of like an endbell with a peg-leg.

 

Can prosthetics also be upgrades? 

 

Just thinking out loud - it's too early in the morning... 

[dc-65x]

Decisions, decisions!

 

I've had a heck of a time deciding on a period Korrect body that fits an inline 36D. Many of the contemporary roadsters are simply to low to cover a 36D and still fit in an interior. The beautiful Lancer Ferrari 330 and 365 would work but I really want to run a sidewinder in them that would allow a full interior.

 

FINALLY....I decided on this, a vintage Dubro Ford GT40:

 

 

It's a really lovely body that fits the mockup wheels and motor well. Unfortunately it's pretty yellowed:

 

 

Some colors really show the yellowing but I found one that won't:

 

 

This car ran at Spa in 1966 and is a beautiful metallic British racing green:

 

 

I can use Testor's metallic British racing green with a gold backer. That should complement the yellowing nicely.

 

Next, I wanted to make sure I could fit a driver above that honk'n motor:

 

 

I ended up making up a simple period flat stock interior to make sure everything would fit:

 

 

Here's the pieces, parts:

 

 

The interior was bent up from .015" sheet styrene with a .125" square styrene riser in the back. The intake stack is from a Cox Ford GT. The driver is a Cox body with a K&B head (with a slight lobotomy to clear the roof ) and an instrument binnacle from a Monogram Porsche 904.

 

Now it's off to wheel and tire land to make that decision..............

[SlotStox#53]

Nice choice Rick that Dubro GT40 is beautiful
Perfect for an inline big block!

[TSR]

I built a car with a Dynamic chassis and a "707" motor and it was a beast! That motor was so full of torque, it twisted the car all over the slot. Because the motor is tall and CG is going to be high, you will need LOTS of weight at near-ground level...

 

 

 

 

maybe a nice 1/16" brass pan under the car? 

 

I also tried a modified AMT chassis but it was much better with the stock motor... more drivable.

 

 

No Champion "700-series" motor was ever sold by Champion with spring-post protectors, but fake "705" motors were on the market a few years back with some plus shunt wires on the brushes. Never happened.

The first Champion motor with spring-post sleeves were the 1968 "507" and "507-R" versions with the special Champion-exclusice nickel plated can:

 

 

 

I have as yet to find ONE R&C genuine car with spring-post sleeves on its motor. This will first appear in 1967 in very few cars of the Car Model racing series.

[Pablo]

Rick, a guy on here recently posted the yellowing can be reversed somewhat by leaving the body near a window with the sun shining on it. Won't cost anything to try it.

[dc-65x]

Hi Pablo,

 

I will give that a try......next summer when the sun returns to Oregon.

 

I have a yellowed Russkit Honda GP and Chaparral that I would really like to paint white. I will give them a try...Thanks!

[Pablo]

I will send you some Mississippi clean pure water for tumbling, and some sunshine, for free.

But, shipping will be astronomical

[n.elmholt]

Hi Pablo,

 

I will give that a try......next summer when the sun returns to Oregon.

 

I have a yellowed Russkit Honda GP and Chaparral that I would really like to paint white. I will give them a try...Thanks!

 

Pablo, if th Honda is very yellow, you might need to paint is on the outside. One of my first Retro F1 bodies was an original lancer Honda, which was very yellow, so I painted it on the outside, added decals (homemade) and gave it a coat of clear laquer:

 

 

Niels, DK

[Tex]

Sweet lookin' Honda, Niels!

[Mark H]

i dig yellowed bodies, you can tell they actually original and not just some repop. but thats just me, i also leave crud build up all over my old chassis so they look like they where just takin out of the attic.

 

also im about to build a 36D powered 32 ford, might have to rethink my plans.

[dc-65x]

Painting a yellowed body on the outside is certainly a viable option Niels. Your Honda looks great!

 

Here's the motor bits I'm going to put together........unless I change my mind    :

 

 

I'm going with the French armature kit with brushes and springs. The wire in the springs is .002" thicker than some Simco "hop up" springs I was going to use. The setup is a Cox 250. The brush holders and pent roof hoods are Champion 707 as are the ARCO magnets.

 

If I don't get lazy, I'll paint the can white and add the French stickers .

[Pablo]

Looks dangerous

[dc-65x]

Eye and ear protection will be required.....and don't put fingers over those cooling holes when buzzing it up

[TSR]

Unless you need to trim your nails? 

[SlotStox#53]

Love seeing your builds, the motor section is always a fun & exciting part! seeing all those goodies laid out ready for action... !!!

[Champion 507]

Mitey sexy, Mr. T!

 

Should be a haulin' momma jamma.

[dc-65x]

Thanks, I have lots of fun building motors. I guess that's something that most modern racers can't get involved with.    Most of the time my motors work pretty well but the devil is in the details. So.......we've got to do a bit of work on my can.

 

Here's the inside of the stock can with it's goofy bearing:

 

 

This nifty little Dremel bit made quick work of the crimp holding all this Crap-O-La in the bearing housing:

 

 

I'm going to run can drive so I drilled a couple of motor mounting holes in the can. I also opened up the bearing hole for a different bearing:

 

 

For a bearing, I decided to use the one from this Kemtron 36D endbell:

 

 

Here's the finished product with the bearing JB Welded into the housing and a couple of 2-56 nuts soldered to the can. I also soldered the bearing housing to the can just in case:

 

 

I think it looks pretty slick on the outside:

 

 

The endbell is next.........

[Pablo]

That's totally sick in it's bitchen ness

Spell check says that's wrong, but you get my point

[SlotStox#53]

That's totally sick in it's bitchen ness

Spell check says that's wrong, but you get my point

Couldn't say it any better Pablo!

[dc-65x]

I notice some Champion brush holders are chamfered for comm clearance. I didn't really need the clearance but it seemed like a fun thing to do. So my little hobby lathe made quick work of it shown on the left with the stock piece on the right:

 

 

Installed on the left, stock on the right:

 

 

The finished endbell is pretty stock. I did add the Champion "pent roof" brush hoods.....

 

 

.....and tap the motor mounting holes for 2-56 machine screws:

 

 

I'm not going to finish the motor yet. I'm going to use the can and endbell as my mockup motor for the chassis build. Speaking of which, here is the motor bracket I'll be using:

 

 

My modified bracket is on the right. The stock "kit"  is all the rest of the stuff. I have no idea who made it.

 

Time to start chassis building!

 

 

 

[SlotStox#53]

Nice to see a can mount being used with the mounting clip ,look forward to seeing what chassis you make to house the big block

[dc-65x]

Using that clip would be too easy Paul. I've drilled the motor bracket on the right for mounting screws for those jam nuts I soldered inside the can.

 

I just wanted to show all the parts that came in the "kit" I found somewhere. Don't know who made it though???

[SlotStox#53]

yeah I Just looked up a couple of posts and re read about  the 2-56 nuts soldered into the can dc-65x style

 

Have no clue who made it by sure looks a well made bracket as some of those can mount/clip brackets tend to be flimsy..

[dc-65x]

It's a pretty nice bracket Paul.

 

Here it is with the first 3 rails per side soldered on:

 

 

I'm going for the 5th GT race in the series so there's more to come on this baby

 

 

 

 

[SlotStox#53]

Very nice looking sled so far Rick  

 

More to come?  more rails? Intricate side /body rails...  can't wait !  Oh & the Pittman 906 project will recommence very shortly