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Help with wing car


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#226 W. J. Dougherty

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Posted 13 March 2014 - 01:44 PM

Just wondering if there was a particular reason you didn't buy that stuff from Port Jeff??


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#227 Anthony Grimaldi

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Posted 13 March 2014 - 01:52 PM

I support every one ImageUploadedByTapatalk1394736744.570780.jpg
Ready to be soldering

#228 Anthony Grimaldi

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Posted 15 March 2014 - 11:33 PM

Link

http://www.toycarcit...og.php?item=321


Link

https://www.e-slotca...kof-m472c-wx-2/


Can u please explain the difference between these two tires

#229 slotcarone

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Posted 16 March 2014 - 08:04 AM

OMG Anthony you are racing at a place that has probably the best selection of tires right in stock--why would you even think of buying tires anywhere else????Just ask at the counter and they will show you the correct tires for your cars for how you are using them.


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Mike Katz

Scratchbuilts forever!!


#230 W. J. Dougherty

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Posted 16 March 2014 - 08:20 AM

Mike Katz is correct.  However, for info on all things Koford, go to their website and download their catalog.  They list all their tire, list hub sizes, compounds and retail price.  For practice you can go cheap using the compound you want, then for the race go to the more expensive hubs...

 

As for the tires, the top one has a metal hub and the compound is WH.  There are more what you would use on your scale cars at Port Jeff.

 

The 2d pair has the new very large plastic hub with WX+ compound and is used only for racing.

 

For racing and practice on your 15A car stick with the top tire but see if you can get it in WX compound, maybe WX+.  Besides the $15 price is better on your wallet.


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#231 Anthony Grimaldi

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Posted 16 March 2014 - 03:40 PM

Guys I'm going to say this as nice as possible. It's non of ur business were I buy my slot car stuff. Two days ago I was at port jeff and after 2 hours of practicing with group 12 and 20 cars i had a nice conversation with Doug joe and another older man that worked there Doug explained each car he had in the show case starting with group 10 to omo we came to the conclusion that I was going to race my I 15 so I wanted a fast practice car he said the group 20 fast but it's slow in the Conor the group 20 on 13.8 was doing 2.985 my I 15 same power I think was was 2.910 he brought out a c12 and this was his car and was completely rebuilt it was running 2.625 on same power so that night I went on line and did loads of research on koford racing tires web site and many others and that when I told u guys can u explain the difference between the two tires?



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#232 John Streisguth

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Posted 17 March 2014 - 08:53 AM

Anthony: don't take it to heart when guys start lecturing about supporting your local raceway.  All of us old farts have seen raceways come and go far too many times, for many of us going back over 40 years.  So you have to understand we get pretty protective about keeping the ones we do have in business.

 

I'm assuming that you were just using those listings as an illustration of what you have found available, and wondering the reasons for using one over the other.


"Whatever..."

#233 W. J. Dougherty

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Posted 17 March 2014 - 11:42 AM

Anthony,

 

What do you want from us? 

 

You ask us questions.  We provide you answers/suggestions/recommendations from our experience which is sometimes based on years that are 2 times your age.  You often don't like our answers.

 

What is it that you want us to say to you?


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#234 Mike Walpole

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Posted 17 March 2014 - 05:26 PM

Koford has Soft Wonder, Wonder, Hard Wonder WH) Extra hard Wonder (WX), Extra Hard Wonder + (WX+), Double Extra Hard Wonder (WXX)

 

Then there are hub sizes - .450", .500", .600", .610" G7 and .655 Composite Hubs.  Larger diameter hubs tend to reduce rolling resistance while reducing grip.  On a wing car the difference between those 2 tires is huge.   The WH is going to work in spray glue in practice while the WX+ probably won't. My advice to you is to run a .500" hub with WH or WX rubber for practice.  It will be a lot easier on the wallet.

 

My experience is the composite hubs tend to run about 1 hardness more than the G7 hubs, but those are for racing IMNSHO.  YMMV.

 

If you are running the car at Port Jeff, you might as well buy the tires there.  His prices are going to be comparable and he usually has a good selection in stock.  If you want to buy over the internet - that's fine.  I do it when the local raceway doesn't have what I want in stock.

 

Lastly, no one here is picking on you.  However, if you want, we can start.


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#235 Anthony Grimaldi

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Posted 18 March 2014 - 02:32 AM

I just have to say thanks for the help with the tires I use all of this information to my advantage I'm starting to find that some stuff u can't get from pj so like that blue printed motor was out of stock so I got it off line I needed a gear I saved $3 that $3 more dollars I can spend at pj every time I ask a Question and u give me an answer at write it down all of these answers are building a wall I'm just getting stronger lol I can't wait to get that c12 so I can kick some group 20 ***

#236 Mike Walpole

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Posted 18 March 2014 - 06:32 AM

IMNSHO, skip C12 and get a G27Lite.  The motors cost about the same and the 27 Lite chassis is steel and less expensive.  The 27 Lites are stupid fast too while the C12 will only be slightly faster than the Int15.  Just a suggestion.



#237 Samiam

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Posted 18 March 2014 - 08:26 AM

Anthony,

Don't get burnt out on the quest for "Top Speed". Just practice racing the bad lanes,learn how to maintain and repair the cars,and watch a few races before jumping the gun and going to faster classes of race cars. I agree with Mike on C12. I race Box 12 once in a while. It's as fast as I ever want to go. And I will only race in spray glue. Full glue tears your car up. 


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#238 W. J. Dougherty

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Posted 18 March 2014 - 09:57 AM

Again, if you are just buying the C12 for fun, then go for it.  Do they race C12 at Port Jeff?  Most places on the East Coast don't anymore.  C12 is the lightest weight car and most times very difficult to drive.  If you are going to race I15, then you may want to consider buying a spare motor instead of the C12 car.

 

There is a lot of merit to what Mike said about 27 Lite.  When I first got mine I was amazed at how wicked fast it was, a good .3 to .5 seconds faster than either a I15 or Gp12 car.  For racing, it only takes 2 motors, and overall, though it seems like a lot of money in the beginning, it is one of the cheapest classes in wing car racing.  That is one reason it is one of the fastest growing classes and the biggest class at the Nationals...

 

Have fun... 


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#239 Mike Walpole

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Posted 18 March 2014 - 10:23 AM

I thin WJ is right about not racing C12 at Port Jeff anymore.  It's still in the rotation at The Track, but the last time no one showed up to run it.  As far a bang for buck - 27 Lite is hard to beat.  Once you get 2-3 good setups, you're set at least for local racing.  Believe it or not G12 costs as much or more to race competitively because of the motor program you need to be competitive.  Int 15 and G27L probably cost about the same.

 

If you are planning to race, start learning to tune the car with the air control and tires, plus learn to drive the gutter lanes.  You want to have your car where you need to drive it in white, red & purple, black.  When you start racing you need to learn how to run with people in the adjacient lanes.

 

and, be prepared in your first race to utter the 5 most famous words in Wing racing. "Where did my car go?"



#240 Paul Kovich

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Posted 18 March 2014 - 11:56 AM

We don't race C12 at Port Jeff, you should focus on International 15 for now and play around with G12, as I said once before monthly our OMG12 class and OM15 class is very competitive and a great way to learn how to race wing cars without the need for a boatload of motors. At this stage you don't know enough about wing cars to start racing 27L, everything that has been said here is true it's a great class and reasonably cheap. But it is very fast at PJ and the racers have forgotten more then you will learn in the next few years. It's frequently a full field and quite frankly i doubt your driving skills are up to it yet. If you can successfully race in OM15, not win but don't make a fool out of yourself. Then you can maybe start thinking about 27L. Trust me being 2 to 3 tenths slower then everybody else in a race is not fun it's a nightmare. This may sound a little harsh, it's not meant to be it really is useful advice. You can learn everything you need to know about racing in OM15. If you aren't interested in racing then it doesn't matter really what car you buy, and a 27Light would be a lot of fun, just don't confuse racing them with driving hotlaps by yourself on orange, its a very difference experience.


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#241 Anthony Grimaldi

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Posted 18 March 2014 - 12:47 PM

Know the c12 that I was going to buy was one of the staff car he told me who I can't remember but it was completely rebuilt and he said was a great practice car they also race c12 but it's seasonal the c12 only cost $150 they had a group 27 not shore if it was light but it was rebuilt and it was $350 I don't have that kind of money to spend on a car rite know and group 12 was more expensive the car pro made new was $150 then a motor was $140

#242 Mike Walpole

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Posted 18 March 2014 - 12:59 PM

BTW, Paul is right on the money.  Being .3-.4 slow in 27L is nightmare for they guys in the adjacient lanes.  They are litterally catching you so fast that they may not have time to keep from crashing into you taking one or both cars out of the race.  If you want to race down the road, then save the money and use it to build a program in Int15 or G12.  Once you learn how to race, then consider the faster classes.

 

As far as just running around, a C12 and an Int15 won't be that much different speed wise.



#243 Anthony Grimaldi

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Posted 18 March 2014 - 02:16 PM

Ok I decide il race my I 15 but the one problem is they race on a Saturday and my dad not off on Saturdays lol so it will be a little wile till I start racing but that c12 is better looking at a brand new group 12 here a link to pro slot and if ur made about me typing in another person web site and may be buying from them don't leave a comment I'm just looking for a fast practice car
If ur really mad at me going on to a different web site write port jeff on a peace of paper and stick it on ur monitor

Link

http://www.toycarcit...php?category=32

#244 Mike Walpole

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Posted 18 March 2014 - 03:01 PM

I don't have a problem with it and I doubt Doug does either.  Just be aware those are ready to run cars, not ready to race.  They will go around OK and have OK speed.  You can run OMG12 with them no problem.  You won't have the fastest car on the track, but you WILL learn to race and keep the car running between heats.  Eventually, you'll want to go fast and you'll get a blueprinted motor, a better chassis and a body tuned for max speed.  That stuff is going to have to come from somewhere, you can guess the rest.



#245 Anthony Grimaldi

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Posted 18 March 2014 - 03:41 PM

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1395175203.066022.jpg ImageUploadedByTapatalk1395175230.432538.jpg
Then why can't I just spend the $140 on the group 12 fast motor and put it in this car

#246 Mike Walpole

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Posted 18 March 2014 - 04:10 PM

I don't know if you can or not, that's up to Doug.  Check with him.



#247 Anthony Grimaldi

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Posted 18 March 2014 - 04:32 PM

I'm confused what's up to him
It's a blueprinted koford feather group 12 he said the only ball bearing are in the can the chassie for $150 only Had bushing

It looked like this 4ezamyjy.jpg

#248 Mike Walpole

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Posted 18 March 2014 - 05:48 PM

It's not the motor, it's the chassis.



#249 Anthony Grimaldi

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Posted 18 March 2014 - 06:00 PM

Ow ok

#250 Anthony Grimaldi

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Posted 18 March 2014 - 09:55 PM

Know let's say I didt race it how fast would the car be with the koford motor rite know this car dose 3.7 slow





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