Too many factors to say just how fast your car will be with that motor, a lot of it depends on how well your car is tuned. I understand the OMG12s race in the 2.7s and that motor will be capable of pushing a good around that fast. The voltage will be up and the track will be stickier, so I guess you'll find out.
Help with wing car
#251
Posted 19 March 2014 - 05:59 AM
#252
Posted 19 March 2014 - 07:18 AM
In addition to a good motor, Doug builds great G12 motors so that will be fine, you need a different body, Doug can supply a good one for OMG12. You will also need different tires. Which he can supply as well. Find out what he will charge you to make all the changes together and set up the car to race OMG12 at the series race. Then you can decide whether thats what you want to do. When you need to pay someone to do all the work it can get expensive, but as of now you don't know enough yet to do it yourself. There are plenty of sources in the forums on bodies, chassis and motors. Which you should be reading that will help you. Racing takes some effort, but thats true for anything worth doing.
#253
Posted 19 March 2014 - 11:14 AM
#254
Posted 19 March 2014 - 11:52 AM
Please talk to Doug. The Barn Burner should be different than what Doug races every week or maybe every month. The One Motor 12 class does not race at the Barn Burner or at any other big race, only at Doug's. Doug created that class for new people just learning to race as a teaching tool for beginners. It is the cheapest and most perfect place to start to learn about your car, motor(s), tires, and body, while racing on a full track.
Speed isn't everything. But sometimes its just fun to play by going fast.
Most all of us only have enough money to buy what we intend to race, we don't have extra money to buy cars just to "play" with...
Sorry, but that's the truth...
#255
Posted 19 March 2014 - 03:44 PM
You will need a different body, what you have will be too stuck and it's slowign the car down a lot. They run OS57 Vipers there and one they have winged for racing will work. I also think OMG12 runs a spec tire. and a spec gear. Talk to Doug to see what you need, then decide what to do.
#256
Posted 19 March 2014 - 06:55 PM
Link
http://bit.ly/1nEWh9w
#257
Posted 19 March 2014 - 07:33 PM
#258
Posted 19 March 2014 - 08:39 PM
#259
Posted 19 March 2014 - 10:47 PM
Do you want to race or do you want to play. If you want to race pay attention to what people are telling you if you want to play buy whatever the hell you want and go play. You ask questions and ignore the answers then come back and ask the same questions over again.
#260
Posted 19 March 2014 - 10:53 PM
#262
Posted 20 March 2014 - 06:57 AM
Paul is right on the money here. If you want to race, then start grearing up to get a race program up and running. If you want to play, get what you want.
If you are going to race Int15, figure that you had best be running low 2.4s or better or else you are going to be the moving chicane. Plus, that Aluminum chassis costs twice what a G12 (aka Box Stock) chassis costs and eventually you are going to crash hard enough to bend it. Plus, do you know how to change a motor on a nickel plated Al chassis? Do it incorrectly and strip the plating off the chassis and the chassis is ruined.
G12 is a much better class to start racing. Fast laps in OMG12 are going to be 2.6s and even if you are turning 3.0s you won't be the moving chicane that you would be in Int15. You might still ben a chassis, but with steel you might be able to straighten it and get another race out of it. Plus G12 race motors are half the cost of an Int15 race motor.
BTW, it's does not dose. That's too close to doze, which means to sleep.
#263
Posted 20 March 2014 - 12:00 PM
#264
Posted 20 March 2014 - 12:35 PM
If you aren't going to race anytime soon, that's fine, you don't need to race yet . We are just trying to understand what your objectives were because it's a different answer depending on what the question is. Personally I think you are wasting your money buying a G27, get a correct body for the G12 car, and if you can afford it a more current motor, and the right tires. You can buy those in stages, first body, then tires and last motor. Don't worry about the chassis yet, it's good enough to practice with. Then learn how to drive Red as fast as you can repeatedly, that is by far the hardest lane at PJ. Save the 15 car for now, otherwise you will use it up. Get a chassis block and a soldering iron and learn how to take the motor out and put it back in on the G12 car, using the old motor for practice. Start collecting tools to work on you car thats much more important then pissing money away on a G27 car. One thing you will need is a good controller, not sure what you are using now but a used Difalco 10 band would be a reasonably priced addition, even an old Difalco external resistor controller would be a good addition, those are great starter controllers because they can handle the power and don't have a transistor to blow accidently. You can start to practice with different tire compounds harder tires are faster but they are trickier to drive. If you do this you will be slowly getting ready to race in the OMG12 class, When you can hammer Red for 60 consecutive laps without coming off, that will be a sign that you are ready to try a race. At that point a new motor would be in order for the race using the others for practice. Don't bother with a new chassis untill you have run a few series races, the one you have will be fine for now.
#265
Posted 20 March 2014 - 01:08 PM
Paul, you mean beginners should be able to hammer Red before they start racing G12. Sacilege I say.
#266
Posted 20 March 2014 - 01:42 PM
#267
Posted 20 March 2014 - 02:36 PM
What I would do if I were in your shoes and wanted to race knowing what I know now.
First, I'd get a suitable G12 body for the Group 20. Next, I would get a current G12 chassis (Koford M530B 4.490" chassis). Then I would have the G20 motor rebuilt with a G12 arm. It's ProSlot Can, but it's probably still legal. Lastly, I would get a G12 motor built with the Koford Super Feather can. It's more durable that the Ultra can. Then I would learn to drive, tune and race that. Set it up with WH tires on .500" hubs and an 8/39 gear. When you can drive all the lanes and stay under 3.0/ lap - go racing.
In the meantime, I would set the Int15 aside until later.
That said, it's your time, money and effort. You can do what you want.
#268
Posted 20 March 2014 - 02:46 PM
#269
Posted 20 March 2014 - 03:14 PM
Wow this post is about the longest post I have seen here that is absolutely going nowhere fast!!! IMO Anthony if you want to have fun at Port Jeff and learn how to drive a slot car around what is a very forgiving track you should get yourself one of the RTR Retro GT Coupe cars that they have for sale there. You can go on the track for hours and not have to worry about rebuilding motors--just pop in a new one when you wear it out for a whole 13 bucks!! Again this is just a suggestion/opinion from someone who has been doing this for a very long time!!
Mike Katz
Scratchbuilts forever!!
#270
Posted 20 March 2014 - 03:32 PM
Here is my final suggestion... There seems to be a major communications problem here.
1. Anthony doesn't know what he wants to do, race or have fun.
2. Anthony doesn't know what car to get/repair/replace, because he hasn't answered the first question.
3. Too many people are giving him suggestions. Most of us are in agreement with each other. Others are making good suggestions but not in line with what Anthony wants to do (see Q1 and Q2).
4. Anthony, Just pick 1 person that you think you can trust and take this novel offline and PM your choice with all your questions. That way you will speak to 1 voice, get 1 answer and not competing and confusing answers.
Just pick somebody and keep the messages private... For all our sakes...
Thank you...
#271
Posted 20 March 2014 - 03:48 PM
The armature is drilled to balance it. The life of an armature more closely related to the size of the commutator.
The motor in your G20 car is a C-can with a Group 20 arm in it. G12 is a C-can class also, so it might be possible to rebuild that motor as a G12 with a new G12 arm. The magnets might need to be honed or replaced, and the can bearing would likely need to be replaced. To do that you are probably looking at about 1/2 the cost of a new G12 blueprinted motor.
The body on that car looks to be a .007" body with a rib (to stiffen it) and likely has too much downforce. Get a used G12 OS Viper body from PJ and have them show you how to mount it to your car. Get the tires I meantion ablove and gear it for OMG12 and practice. When you get the money saved, replace the chassis and you'll be ready to race.
The USRA rules are online.http://www.usraslots.com/ if you want a reference to what we are talking about.
Look, I think all the people here giving you advice just want you to enjoy the hobby. If you jump in the shark pool that is Int15 or G27Lite for your first race I don't think you'll have a good experience. For example, last week in one of our races a very experienced racer skipped Int15 because he was a .15/lap slow and he didn't want to spend the whole race moving over for everyone. Thank about what you want to do in the hobby and then figure out how to get there. Mostly - have fun.
#272
Posted 20 March 2014 - 03:53 PM
I think there has been much good advice given here and Bills suggestion is a valid one indeed . Please will one of the mods close this post!!!
Mike Katz
Scratchbuilts forever!!
#273
Posted 20 March 2014 - 04:12 PM
#274
Posted 20 March 2014 - 04:30 PM
Paul Kovich
I intend to live forever! So far, so good.
#275
Posted 20 March 2014 - 06:17 PM
Thanks, Mike...
I love you too...