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"Rods and Rails" discussion and car show


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#101 Gator Bob

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Posted 18 March 2014 - 07:34 PM

Got this in the mail Monday. . .

10013678_1480980252123101_1736549925_n.j

 

Nice parts !!!

 

Like the NAPA commercial - "All the Right Parts In All the Right Places"

 

I got your message about the confusion about being on the list and am working on a resolution.

Here is my first preliminary mock up. I could have started with all new parts. I decided to go with the Powered By Junk mantra :) With a few exceptions, gears, leads and braids I intend to use all old junk to create my car.

 

Starting with a poorly started AMT '32 coupe with the wrong grille shell, a hacked on Dynamic frame, a rusty Kemtron 6 volter, cut "Grops" on Corben wheels, front drag wheels with bearings etc.

 

I was thinking of hacking the hood to expose those 6 deuces. I will have it tough staying within the 3 1/4" inch rule but I think I can squeeze it. 

 

Before I go any further, is everything here acceptable per the rules? I may just need an extra 1/8" over that 3 1/4". Any objections?

 

 

attachicon.gifDSC03734.JPG

 

Now for a paint scheme. Was thinking all shiny but I may leave everything rusty and crusty and go with Matte black. Easier for me in the long run.

 

Page down and take a look at some of these :heart: Even if you hate drag cars you just can't hate these.

 

http://www.jalopyjou...ad.php?t=499649

Good link ... nice cars. :wub:

Yup ... this looks right :D   http://www.jalopyjou...845&postcount=2

 

Squeeze it in :heat: ... that's why I had to go with the Revell gear and not the first choice 64p Weldun set screw. The Champion/Weldun locking collar version might work. 


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                            Bob Israelite




#102 Gator Bob

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Posted 19 March 2014 - 11:26 AM

New Updates for entries and procedure clarification - click here.

 

Rods n Rails.JPG


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#103 Gator Bob

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Posted 19 March 2014 - 12:45 PM

Just had to share this image with you guys  :D

 

Rods n Rails concept1.JPG

 

 

 

 


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#104 SlotStox#53

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Posted 19 March 2014 - 06:06 PM

Thanks for sharing Bob :D :good:

A thing of beauty in a really great shot!

#105 Gator Bob

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Posted 27 March 2014 - 01:45 PM

I'm working with Ralph of RTR on the plaque pictures and fonts. 

RTR Logo.JPG

Some draft work.......

 

The Gene Husting Memorial

“Rods & Rails” - Vintage Drag Proxy

Participant - May 19, 2014

 

Rods n Rails concept6s.jpg


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                            Bob Israelite

#106 SlotStox#53

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Posted 27 March 2014 - 03:57 PM

Looking good so far Bob :good: :D



#107 Lone Wolf

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Posted 28 March 2014 - 04:51 PM

Bob, the plaques look suberb :good:

 

Check out these relics just in today. They smell as good as they look :laugh2:

 

I believe the blue chassis is a Gar Vic. It looks like it's powered by the smaller Ram 222 I think.

 

The rail is another story. I think that's a model train motor in there but I don't know the brand. Not the most beautiful piece of craftsmanship but still has some charm. Check out the unique motor retention method. Have not seen that one before.

 

DSC03800.JPG

 

DSC03801.JPG


Joe Lupo


#108 Gator Bob

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Posted 28 March 2014 - 05:02 PM

Thanks for the comps on the plaques!

 

The ingenuity of slot racers is a riot ... I'll just hold the motor in with braid.   :laugh2:   :bomb:

 

I bet they both smell good but only one passes the sniff test.   :heat:   :wacko2:


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#109 SlotStox#53

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Posted 30 March 2014 - 08:48 PM

Talk about vintage Joe!!! :laugh2: gonna get em all renovated? Or leaving the patina? Lol.

Bob & everyone, just out of curiousity what sort of lead wire were they using for these padlock motors/dragsters?

What can we use ?

Thanks :good:

#110 Gator Bob

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Posted 31 March 2014 - 12:25 AM

Good component question Paul.

 

For this event:

  • Any vintage or vintage type wire. Example: CHA-226W Champion White Superflex Lead Wire
  • Martex train wire is acceptable. 
  • Black, White, Brown or cloth covered lamp wire, No Clear jacketed. 
  • No silicone jacketed wire allowed.
  • Any AWG allowed.
  • Solid or Stranded conductor.
  • Multi conductor individual jacked allowed.
  • Multi conductor/ multi color Siamese allowed. 

I'll be using 16 AWG Siamese Lamp type wire based on the input request by George Blaha to try it.


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#111 SlotStox#53

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Posted 31 March 2014 - 11:30 AM

Great ! Thanks for the examples Bob :)



#112 SlotStox#53

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Posted 04 April 2014 - 08:39 PM

Very early beginnings of my "non" rail Dragster :good: :D

 

 

VeeDub.jpg

 

Working out the basics of the frame & motor bracket in progress, with motor madness waiting in the wings !



#113 Gator Bob

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Posted 04 April 2014 - 10:04 PM

K00L ...   :good:

Paul, Those rear wheels look great? They appear to be Cannon and the pairs I have are still soft and pretty 'fresh', Are those Cannon/BZ ?

BTW: nothing some 'Trinity Traction' juice or a Wintergreen homebrew lotion can't fix to bring back the bite.  

 

Anyone remember back in the day if you had a VW Beetle Kool cigarettes would pay you IIRC $75.00 per month to run their big decals on your street bug?

 

I'm working out a few design "Bugs" on my rail job. :laugh2:  


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#114 SlotStox#53

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Posted 04 April 2014 - 10:12 PM

They are indeed Cannon rears Bob :good: Not BZ ones just regular Cannon, got the orange & blue header card somewhere .. They came with the 3 eared spinners, German rubber still soft :D

 

Fronts are Mila Miglia jobs that could be awaiting a polish :laugh2: Or may just leave them all dark & patina style :good:

 

Hope you sort the "Bugs" out on your rail :laugh2: :good: Gonna be fabricating a new Kemtron rear motor plate to replace a broken one that I got on the padlock motor from epay...Time to get cutting some brass!



#115 Gator Bob

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Posted 04 April 2014 - 10:33 PM

Paul,

The Mila Miglia fronts.... leave the centers... can be hit with some semi-gloss black or clear (or left as is) and just lay it face down on a 'flat' surface with 400 wet paper and 'polish' the rim edge with light pressure in a figure 8 motion ... or put the axle in a dremal (or drill) and shine the lip that way.

Just sayin ... Should match the rears pretty well. :)

Can't tell from the picture ... If they are the plain center.. not the drilled center Migs... I have those in 5/40 if you want them for a closer match. IIRC they are 10 hole. 


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#116 SlotStox#53

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Posted 04 April 2014 - 10:38 PM

Thanks for the tips on the Milia's :good:

 

The fronts I have are the drilled hubs :)

 

 

VeeDub 2.jpg



#117 Gator Bob

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Posted 04 April 2014 - 10:43 PM

Perfect ! :D   :victory:


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#118 Gator Bob

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Posted 07 April 2014 - 02:44 PM

I need some guidance on the Pittman DC85A-6 ...  :unknw:  :to_become_senile:

 

Posted some questions over --> here. :scratch_one-s_head:


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#119 SlotStox#53

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Posted 08 April 2014 - 11:00 PM

Hope you sort out all the padlock info Bob :good: The info people are sharing is a real big help figuring these things out!!

 

In further developments a couple of Drone shots have surfaced of the Beetle chassis early stages! Along with the early stages of it's motor awaiting either a 6V Pittman or a 3V RAM ... Depending on what gets used on the Rail that's also in development!!

 

Drone shot 1.jpg

 

 

Drone shot 2.jpg



#120 SlotStox#53

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Posted 14 April 2014 - 07:52 PM

Been trying to decide on an optimal gear ratio for this particular car  (inline  with DC85/RAM equivalent & RAM 3V arm) will be using bevel gears & wondering what would be a good sort of ratio?

 

I know reading the links & old mags etc for the sidewinder with large spur gears etc around 2-2.5:1 or 3:1 with the older higher voltage that was run back in the day. Got a 2:1 set of bevel gears and also I think a 3:1 any ideas?

 

Oh and track voltage is 14v ....

 

Thanks :good:

 

Oh and here's some more progress pictures :) Note the very small 20 tooth bevel gear with it's 10 tooth pinion for the 2:1 set... Just wondering if it would launch hard and then run out of steam/gears a short way down the strip :laugh2:

 

Motor now has BB's epoxied in both ends & spins smoother than silk :D got the spacers for the discarded laminations sorted & it's about ready to be buttoned up . Unless I decide to whack on some epoxy & hit it with a heat gun & dust off the RGeo static balancer..... Hmmmmm we will see.

 

 

Vw1.jpg

 

 

Vw2.jpg

 

 

Vw3.jpg


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#121 Gator Bob

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Posted 14 April 2014 - 09:25 PM

Paul, it looks like it's coming along very good.
 
I don't have enough experience to give you a gear suggestion but the spec sheet on the Pittman 85A 12v rated version says no load RPM of 11,500 and operating of 8,700. It will 'operate' for so short of an amount of time I would think pushing to 10,500 RPM is what you want as this is the RPM where the HP curve starts to fall of.
 
The 6v would just have to be a guess or there could be some math to come up with and estimate. If you go with the 12v 11,500 RPM# and the scale 1000ft (41.666') and your tire OD you could calculate at the point it would reach peak RPM with a known gearset.
 
The big variables would be the 14.7 track voltage and what voltage rated arm you have. 
The spec sheet says they made them to order from 3v to 28v.  
 
At 2:1 I don't think it would reach max HP/RPM, and as much of a heavyweight as these are I would probably go to the 3:1 gearset you have.


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#122 SlotStox#53

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Posted 14 April 2014 - 09:55 PM

Thanks Bob :good: Building this car has been really fun so far :D It's just got that *good* feeling about it as you put it together .

 

& thank you for the info on RPM etc , will go dig out the 3:1 set that was for another stalled project :laugh2: Can always get more , this Dragster is a much more deserving cause .



#123 Lone Wolf

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Posted 15 April 2014 - 11:50 AM

Paul, the Bug looks WILD. Love the stance. Not that I know a lot about it but I would test the car first regarding that gear set. I have a feeling those gears may look like an eaten ear of corn if that thing gets any traction :D These motors are very strong like those evil Erector set motors with the exposed gears that would easily remove fingertips :)

 

In any event, I would grind a flat on the axle and try to use two screws in the crown.


Joe Lupo


#124 SlotStox#53

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Posted 15 April 2014 - 12:08 PM

Thanks Joe , totally agree on the stance :D May get slightly altered just to clear the front tires :laugh2: 

 

Once the motor is all bolted up for the last time & fixed to the chassis will definitely check the gears ( found a 35 tooth bevel gear for a 3.5:1 ratio) & how it holds up under stress from the torque monster ! It's gonna be interesting hearing the reports on how all these padlock warriors go off the line & down the strip, cant wait :D :dance3: 



#125 don.siegel

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Posted 15 April 2014 - 12:40 PM

Paul,

 

3.5 sounds a bit low - I'd still go with the 2:1, or if you want to experiment, I can try to find a 25 or 30 tooth gear in my boxes...

 

Don

 

PS: speaking of Erector Sets and gears...

 

ACmotorchassis.jpg

 

(I'd send this in to the proxy, but can't afford the postage!)


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