229 replies to this topic

[Noose]

Looks good, Ward.

[slotcarone]

Now that's something we really need!! Looks great!!

[SlotStox#53]

Now that is one sweet-looking F1 chassis Nice and simple design.

[race301]

Looks like it would work on any kind of track. Sweet.

[Hipsticker]

Real fine kit there! Ill have me one of these soon!

Nice work there, Duffy! Now get some parts made for the masses.

Thanks for posting picture.

[Chad B]

Patiently waiting for my own Death Otter F1. I'm sure it will be nothing short of perfection.

[Matt Sheldon]

Oooohhhh, shiny.

[Duffy]

"We have done the attainable; and that makes us Mighty."

[Half Fast]

Pure EVIL!
 
Cheers,

[Noose]

Ran this to the Am Main at Fast Tracks. Previously noted as my back-up car at the Sano.
 

[JerseyJohn]

Chris Gambler qualed into the B in Can-Am in a JJ built Beaver. Said it handled great.

[tonyp]

All American Beaver.

[tonyp]

Hey, where did I see that before. LOL... Very nice job, John...

[CoastalAngler1]

I saw two War Beaver chassis kits in the case at The Race Place in Holly Hill... nice!  

Won't be long and I'll be needing some Retro goodies. 

[tonyp]

Anything you need to know to get up and running feel free to ask me. Always glad to help a new racer. Then after you are up to speed you're on your own. LOL...

[JerseyJohn]

Chris Gambler qualed the B in can am in a JJ built beaver .. Said it handled great

Simple, solid, fast... A great design...

[Michael Rigsby]

Duffy,
 
I want to thank you for the time you took to bring the War Beaver chassis kit to market. Since I started building Retro chassis off and on from 2008, yours is the most complete, comprehensive kit I have seen on the market. The parts are nicely cut, flat, and require virtually no straightening or major reworking from the average builders standpoint.
 
Though I am far from what I call a "pretty builder", my stuff usually seems to last pretty well, though my solder joints aren't picturesque like some. Would probably look better if I had a tumbler to use, but can't afford one living on workman's comp.
 
I can see in the very near future putting several of these together for racers at our track who want to run GRRR races and have a good reliable chassis that can take a beating, and with Duffy's design and workmanship put into the kit, a good buildup is less than a couple of hours work, even for a hack like me. 
 
So here is my offering, 50.0 grams of stock build War Beaver, waiting on a front axle and rear bearings (waiting on two orders to come in). Should give about a 102 gram car fully rigged out and ready to race. 4-1/16" Wheelbase with a 15/16" guide lead.
 
Michael

[Half Fast]

Mike-

 

Nice "By the book" build the photo will be helpful to my build.

 

Cheers

[tonyp]

46 grams for a King track.

[Michael Rigsby]

Tony,
 
What size wire did you use for the bite bar? Looks like .055"? And it free-floats through the square tubing (3/32"?) on the center rails and the pans? Only limited in side to side movement by the 1/16" collars? Looks amost similar to the bite bar setup on my old Yeti Group F chassis.
 
Looks like an interesting concept to copy for a second built (hey, I used to be a guitarist in bands, we copied technique from everybody).

[tonyp]

Yes, to all LOL.

If I use a bite bar I never solder it solid. The only Retro chassis I ever made with it soldered solid was the eight Retro East enduro chassis. I made them solid so if the pans started to drag you could tweak the bite bar a bit. If it floats you can't do this. Like it to float. One less thing to effect the flex of the center section.

[tonyp]

My GRRR backup enduro chassis. 47.7 grams. Never needed to set it up. Heading out to a customer Monday.

[Eddie Fleming]

That is nice, Tony.

[tonyp]

Thanks...

[Tex]

Tony,

 

Is the center weight soldered to the bite bar?