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"Mine" Cox La Cucaracha


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#51 Pablo

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Posted 17 July 2015 - 09:51 PM

Bill, I have no idea what arm this is. Can end, purple color on one pole, white color on another. 

Fine lams. The big balance holes were there when I found it. The 2 little tiny holes were drilled by Hershman.

 

I know one thing, Hershman checks your stuff to make sure it's worth working on, and billing you for, before he spends time on it :)

So I knew it had potential before I started.

 

One thing about Cucarachas, if the motor isn't right, or blows up :bomb: , it takes less than a minute to replace it :)


Paul Wolcott




#52 Pablo

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Posted 17 July 2015 - 10:51 PM

Sonic 7T 48P steel pinion. No room for error here, Bunky :)

The goal is .155" from can bushing to gear.

 

Sacrificial phenolic washer prevents acid from entering the bearing:

 

IMG_6098.JPG

 

Mini-alligator clip, bathed in ATF, sets the distance the pinion can go in:

 

IMG_6099.JPG

 

Bam !  Pinion is home, cleaned up, and checked. It passes the test - only 2 thou off:

 

IMG_6101.JPG

 

Like I said, it's close, but it will work:

 

IMG_6112.JPG


Paul Wolcott

#53 Eddie Fleming

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Posted 18 July 2015 - 06:49 AM

That is close. no angled pinion for this setup.


Eddie Fleming

#54 Pablo

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Posted 18 July 2015 - 11:10 AM

Actually, Eddie, I looked at an angled ARP to see if the extra little "tang" gives me any more length - it doesn't.

But the angled would reach just as far as the straight.

It's not a hypoid situation anyway so there is no need for an angled.

 

I do need to make that purple crown turn to black, though :D


Paul Wolcott

#55 Gator Bob

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Posted 18 July 2015 - 11:16 AM

 Champion can

 

Mabuchi FT16BB can.

The Champion/Mabuchi cans had one vent hole.


- WDzqYLKlZcbyIJAbLTxE.png

                            Bob Israelite


#56 Pablo

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Posted 18 July 2015 - 11:26 AM

Thank You, Sir, correction made. :good:


Paul Wolcott

#57 Bill from NH

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Posted 18 July 2015 - 01:19 PM

 Looks like that arm was in an anglewinder in another life. :)


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#58 Pablo

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Posted 18 July 2015 - 03:02 PM

Chassis exam:

At first I thought the center section wasn't flat, because the front sits on deck but the rear is raised up a little.

 

IMG_6114.JPG

 

 

BUT, it's not bent. The ISO pivot pin holes are drilled in such a manner to give some pan droop, sweeeet :D

 

IMG_6115.JPG

 

I put a piece of 15 thou under both front and rear; now the pan still sits flat on deck and the center is level front to rear.

This will be the stance of the chassis.

 

IMG_6116.JPG

 

IMG_6122.JPG

 

I taped it all up and took a measurement for the foam piece that loads the tongue.

Looks like a hair under 12/64", so that will be the thickness of my donut holes.

 

IMG_6134.JPG

 

 

 


Paul Wolcott

#59 Gator Bob

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Posted 18 July 2015 - 03:12 PM

For a 'race version' maybe a solid screw adjust up-stop would be better than the foam.

More predictable ... the foam was good on bumpy tracks of the past.


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#60 Pablo

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Posted 18 July 2015 - 03:40 PM

Thanks Bob, I hear ya, and don't disagree. But I do like the idea of a "soft" load for the tongue.

The original designers of this chassis sure had some good theories, and I can always do a screw type adjuster later. 

 

For now, I'll go old school.

No better time for a test fit than the present, while she's being held down :)

 

IMG_6136.JPG


Paul Wolcott

#61 Pablo

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Posted 18 July 2015 - 05:59 PM

Rear axle and ISO pin polished, needle bearings soaked/cleaned/lubed:

 

IMG_6160.JPG

 

All edges smoothed, flag surfaces faced.

The center section bottom had a slight bulge, so it was lapped with 400 wet/dry:

 

IMG_6140.JPG

 

Tongue tilt checked.  Perfectly vertical left/right, with a very slight up tilt:

 

IMG_6144.JPG

 

IMG_6152.JPG

 

Now she goes into the tumbler for a bath.........


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#62 Pablo

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Posted 19 July 2015 - 08:24 AM

She shined up pretty well:

 

IMG_6187.JPG

 

Now, where did I put those doggone wing body attachments ? :crazy:


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#63 Pablo

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Posted 19 July 2015 - 03:48 PM

Here's something you don't see very often, a Cuc on a Rick's Jig :yu:

 

IMG_6194.JPG

 

I decided to simply JB Weld the needle bearings in place.

Did a  Google search on "does jb weld adhere to aluminum", some say "yes", some say "no".

Dennis Samson says it will work, so I roughed up the holes a little and glued 'em home.

 

IMG_6200.JPG

 

3/16 tall donut hole pieces secured with 3M #80 adhesive:

 

IMG_6205.JPG

 

 

 

 

 

 


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Paul Wolcott

#64 Pablo

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Posted 19 July 2015 - 09:19 PM

JK Donut Wizard makes mounting rubber easy:

 

IMG_6211.JPG

 

IMG_6217.JPG

 

 

 

 

 


Paul Wolcott

#65 CoastalAngler1

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Posted 20 July 2015 - 10:20 AM

Doesn't Mila Miglia make a vintage tire mounting tool?  That JK tire donut wizard looks better than the miglia...


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#66 Pablo

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Posted 20 July 2015 - 10:31 AM

Yeah, they're available at the same place that sells rare, vintage parts for all types of custom builds :wacko2: :D


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#67 Hworth08

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Posted 20 July 2015 - 11:00 AM

Insides of a doughnut is a good idea on the tongue!

 

Someone at our track came up a slick solution for the original foam. I just can't remember how it was! :dash2: It worked like the spring buckets on a stock car but I can't remember the exact design. Having weight on the tongue entering a turn is extremely important for a Cuk.


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#68 Pablo

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Posted 20 July 2015 - 03:00 PM

Hi Don, you got that right about the weight loading the tongue.

I'm no Cuc veteran expert, but I've built my share of ISO chassis.

My thinking is, the tongue's purpose is to keep the flag planted and the front wheels' purpose is to

"stay the heck out of the way until I need you" :P

 

Weights on the center and the pan are at ground zero:

 

IMG_6224.JPG

 

IMG_6226.JPG

 

The TrueScale La Cucaracha body is 1/8" wider than the stock body. I had to find a way to occupy that space.  Here is what I did - .050 steel pin tubing with .047 retainers.  Set up loose for some shakey - shakey body wiggle:

 

IMG_6230.JPG

 

 


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Paul Wolcott

#69 Pablo

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Posted 20 July 2015 - 05:44 PM

18 balls in the front wheels !! :shok:

 

IMG_6241.JPG

 


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#70 Pablo

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Posted 20 July 2015 - 08:57 PM

1969 Cox car with Sonic, Koford, Parma, DRS, Slick 7, Mabuchi, Tradeship, Champion, TrueScale, and Model Master parts installed. 

A 46 year old car with a lot of nice modern parts on it.

 

IMG_6270.JPG


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#71 Pablo

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Posted 21 July 2015 - 04:03 PM

Rear wheels: SBR donuts on original tapered Cuc wheels. Stock OD is .9375", mine are .885"

 

Front wheels: softer rubber than originals on Cuc BB front wheels.  Stock OD is .875", mine are .737"

 

IMG_6284.JPG

 

Front wheel footprints are wider than the stock "knife edges", but mine are softer and won't be touching the track as much.


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Paul Wolcott

#72 Pablo

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Posted 21 July 2015 - 05:25 PM

Marklin train wires and California Loops:

 

IMG_6291.JPG

 

managed by a piece of shrink tubing Super Glued to the pan crossmember:

 

IMG_6294.JPG


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Paul Wolcott

#73 Pablo

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Posted 22 July 2015 - 02:05 PM

Done.  She passes the drivetrain test with flying colors. Track test 1 August at The Dungeon. Hide the women and children. Should be interesting......

 

IMG_6303.JPG

 

IMG_6326.JPG

 

IMG_6343.JPG

 

IMG_6344.JPG

 

IMG_6355.JPG

Specs:
-Total weight 104 grams
-Front and rear wheel widths 2 3/4"
-Front and rear wheel OD's .885 (1/2" wide rims) and .737, respectively.
-Gearing 7/29

Parts:
-TrueScale body
-Koford spacers, crown gear setscrew, body pins
-Champion springs

-Mabuchi can
-Tradeship endbell
-JK SBR donuts
-Slick 7 lead weight, spacers, bulletproofing
-Sonic pinion gear
-Parma crown gear, white paint
-Testors Model Master blue paint
-Patto's decal
-DRS pin tubing, retainers
-Marklin train wires
-last but not least, Cox, RIP :D


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Paul Wolcott

#74 Asp

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Posted 22 July 2015 - 02:42 PM

Dear Paul,

As usual, a thing of beauty.. My nick may be Asp, but my first love is for the Cucaracha, my first real slot car in 1967. It cost then in Italy a staggering 14400 Lire, equivalent to over 23.00 $.

Just as  a coincidence I'm building something similar..If I am not too ashamed, I may show my effort when finished.

By the way what's happening to Truescale? It seems all bodies are presently unavailable.

 

Luciano


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#75 Pablo

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Posted 22 July 2015 - 03:23 PM

Thanks, Luciano. :)  Don't ever feel ashamed to show your builds on Slotblog. Think of it as fun, and an opportunity to improve.

 

TrueScale: visit the website and you'll know as much as I do. Vic's bodies take some time to get, but they are worth the wait. :good:


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#76 Pablo

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Posted 01 August 2015 - 11:44 PM

Track test #1 results:

It's a tilting pile. It "turned turtle" at such slow speeds, my buddies were calling it "The Turtle"

Good thing the decals are on the inside, and the TrueScale body is thick - it actually traveled further on it's back than in the slot :crazy:

My diagnosis:

-way too much grip with the SBR donuts

-gears are too tall (no brakes, and too much acceleration wheel spin)

-motor runs great (more power than it needs, but I hope to harness it)

-drive train is absolutely perfectly smooth (thanks to Dennis Samson for his advice on JB Welding the bearings to the uprights :good:)

My solutions:

-change from SRB donuts to vintage tan or orange

-change gear ratio

-needs more low weight to counteract the top heavy zero downforce body and 2 3/4" wheel widths

 

Those are just my theories. The only truth is lap times. :D


Paul Wolcott

#77 Samiam

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Posted 02 August 2015 - 01:18 AM

Pablo,

I have seen racing 'Cucs from back in the day with brass plate under the pans. With that motor weight is your friend. Lead would be the easy fix but some shiny brass would look more sano.


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#78 Pablo

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Posted 02 August 2015 - 09:39 AM

:good: Thanks, I'm on it .....after I build this Jupiter, that is.....


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#79 Pablo

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Posted 23 November 2015 - 01:00 AM

Gator Bob was right (post # 59) - loading the center section with the weight of the entire car using foam pieces is a joke.

So I drilled holes in the cross-member and used machine screws secured with nuts underneath

 

IMG_8290.JPG


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Paul Wolcott

#80 Pablo

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Posted 24 November 2015 - 08:12 PM

Rear axle was bound up in the (soft aluminum) uprights after track test #1.

So I tinned and bent a piece of .055 wire as a brace.

The jury is still out on JB Weld to aluminum, but Dennis Samson's suggestion of using it to secure the needle bearings didn't fail, so.......

 

IMG_8301.JPG

 

IMG_8311.JPG

 


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Paul Wolcott

#81 Bill from NH

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Posted 24 November 2015 - 08:39 PM

The J.W. Harris Co. & others sell aluminum solder & flux if you should need it. Not cheap, but Amazon has some of both.


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#82 Mattb

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Posted 25 November 2015 - 09:29 AM

And to think all I do is re-solder all the wires, cut a piece of lead to put into the frame area behind the guide (where the foam goes) and a set of silicone tires, and I'm ready to race! Those old cucs still run super and the piece of lead in between the guide section rails makes it handle much better. I use the same weight setup in the rtr 2-E I run on the big track.
Matt Bishop

Vintage Cox Slot Cars

#83 Pablo

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Posted 25 November 2015 - 02:58 PM

Funny you should mention weights, Matt, because that's what I was working on when you posted :)

This time, I went hog wild with it

 

IMG_8314.JPG

 

IMG_8315.JPG

 

IMG_8316.JPG

 

IMG_8321.JPG

 

Changed the SBR rubber to vintage tan

 

IMG_8326.JPG


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#84 Bill from NH

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Posted 25 November 2015 - 03:27 PM

Aren't those tan donuts also colored SBR rubber? Those I bought in the past were.


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#85 Pablo

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Posted 25 November 2015 - 03:58 PM

I've no idea. They certainly aren't as fresh as new SBR, so even if they are, they'll have less grip (I hope) :)

Here is the new "Pablo blueprinted" motor setup, currently awaiting a Havlicek arm:

 

IMG_8297.JPG


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Paul Wolcott

#86 Mattb

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Posted 25 November 2015 - 04:55 PM

I find the weight behind the guide makes these cars very driveable I have a couple runners that we race for fun, but it would be fun to race them in a cuc series. I guess at the time they were the trick of the month for rtr cars and maybe best rtr ever sold. This design was issued about the time I graduated to a real job and car and forgot slot racing for the next 15 years.
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Vintage Cox Slot Cars

#87 Pablo

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Posted 25 November 2015 - 07:32 PM

Ready to rock, when the motor is done.

Vintage police are nowhere in sight, so I swapped the Cox flag for a Jet Flag, and attached it with a Classic weight :dance3:

 

IMG_8330.JPG


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Paul Wolcott

#88 MSwiss

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Posted 25 November 2015 - 07:39 PM

At least you have analog gauges. Lol

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#89 Pablo

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Posted 12 December 2015 - 12:27 PM

Motor is done. Havlicek arm, Pro Slot can ball bearing and brushes, Champion light springs, Tradeship endbell with 36D holders, Mura magnets.

It runs cool and smooth, draws 1.8 amps at 3 volts, and sings real nice when revved.

Another grand slam home run armature, thanks John !!!! :good: :D

 

IMG_8466.JPG


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#90 don.siegel

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Posted 12 December 2015 - 01:56 PM

The Vintage Police have got our eyes on you Pablo... 

 

A jet flag in a Cuc? Well, I never...

 

Don 



#91 Pablo

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Posted 12 December 2015 - 02:00 PM

Want a hot rod? have John Havlicek wind you a hotter than stock arm & then replace the stock magnets with something stronger.

Bill's advice is always right on the money :D

 

Uh Ohhh, the VP showed up out of nowhere :shok: :)

Hi Don :friends: I can always change the Jet flag back to a Cox


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#92 Pablo

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Posted 12 December 2015 - 02:47 PM

She passes the drivetrain test with flying colors, thanks to the Parma crown and JK (press-on) straight steel pinion.

Yes, Bunky, that is a genuine Ralph Thorne Racing setscrew  :)

 

IMG_8479.JPG

 

Had to Dremel some clearance from the chassis in a couple different places.

I'm only showing these pics to annoy the VP :laugh2:

 

IMG_8476.JPG

 

IMG_8495.JPG

 

I'll have to have a talk with my armature guy about the sloppy winds, they are messing up my photos :laugh2:

Just kidding, John :crazy:

 

 

 

 


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#93 Pablo

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Posted 12 December 2015 - 05:28 PM

Ready for track test #2. Hopefully it will spend more time in the slot than it did on test #1 :laugh2:

 

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  • Jencar17 and Peter Horvath like this
Paul Wolcott

#94 Maximo

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Posted 12 December 2015 - 09:30 PM

Pablo,

 

Just now found this thread. I love the La Cucaracha and have four of them! I once had five MINT in five colors but that was back a few years before I hit the wall!

My all-time favorite RTR.

 

Love your version!

 

 

 

-maximo


David Ray Siller
Thingies are my thingie!

#95 havlicek

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Posted 13 December 2015 - 07:45 AM

Really lovely Pablo.  I like how you did the motor in all black...it looks...serious!

 

-john


John Havlicek

#96 Pablo

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Posted 02 January 2016 - 08:16 PM

Track test #2 for "The Turtle" was today. Results:

Bingo :good: :dance3: Runs great, handles as good as one can expect from a 2 3/4" wide car.

The Havlicek arm is real peppy, runs perfect, and compliments the mods I did. I couldn't be any more perfect.

Gearing was perfect. Level of grip with the tan donuts was perfect. The additional weight helped.

This time I think I nailed it. Mission Accomplished.


Paul Wolcott

#97 Pablo

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Posted 02 May 2016 - 05:59 AM

Track test report from the happy new owner:

 

"Paul,

I have been able to track test the Cuc extensively.. You were right it must be one of the best Cuc's on the planet.
The road holding is simply amazing and when you think the car is going to fly in the scenery she stays planted in the slot.
I am sure I haven't found yet the limits of the car.
Thank you for a fantastic car.."

Paul Wolcott





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