195 replies to this topic

[Rob Voska]

The head of the pins wore down then pull into / thru the pan.  The pan holes are smaller than the holes in the center section.  Not really any room to put a brass sleeve & solder in place without affecting movement.  At the track I bent an L from .062 wire & slid a piece of wire insulation over the unbent end.

 

Might be best to simply buy a 1/16" cotter key.

[MSwiss]

On version 2.0, he can add material to the inner cavity of the pan, and bend a tab on the outer part of it.

Like the JK, but more inboard.

Hopefully it would be still be wide brought you could flex your wire into place.

[Terry]

What about using two loc collars to keep the pin in place, like what came on the JK Scorpion chassis? They were ground flat on one side and seemed to work well.

 

[MSwiss]

That would probably work, but the flat would need to be ground real close to the wire, as not to inhibit movement.

 

If the hole for the bite bar was raised up a bit, it would be less of an issue.

[swodem]

It is Mike. Ride height for the pans is governed by the pan crossmember, not the bite bar as in the JK series

[MSwiss]

I don't have any here, because I can't get them, but unless I'm confused the cross member just acts as a downstop.

 

The up movement is predicated by the bite bar and anything "under it", in a form of a keeper, will impede up movement, and if too tall/thick, will also impede fore-aft.

[MSwiss]

Rob's idea looks like it will work fine.

For those wanting something lighter, and with zero bending, and if .050" diameter is a suitable dimension, for desired fore-aft, and up-n-down movement, go with a piece of Koford stainless steel tubing with T-pins on each end.

I wouldn't risk just bending them.

Cut a notch in board and solder them.

If you ever need to remove it, just cut it out.

Hopefully having 2 larger bearing surfaces , the inner surfaces of the T-pins would hold up better than the tiny pin heads.

[swodem]

I don't have any here, because I can't get them, but unless I'm confused the cross member just acts as a downstop.
 
The up movement is predicated by the bite bar and anything "under it", in a form of a keeper, will impede up movement, and if too tall/thick, will also impede fore-aft.

Yes minimum ride height is managed by the crossmember

Max elevation stopped by the bite bar, for/aft by the bite bar and/or front pan locking ears (these kind of bind up as the pan goes forward as they are angled)

Thinner bite bar should get you some increased movement up/forward - but won't lower the pans (was the point I was making).

Loose bite bars tend to vibrate like mad
My design has some tension to it which may reduce this - benefit(?) unknown but will test. Maybe just quieter?

[MSwiss]

My comment #129 was just aimed towards the previous comment , by Terry, if a set screw keeper would work.

[swodem]

Or, if you just want a simple, fast, disposable bite bar, do this...

 

 

make a few spares, just needs short lengths of 1/16th tube, with 90 degree bend one end, insert then bend the other once in place

[MSwiss]

After seeing the visible wear on Rob V' s brass tube bite bar, this past weekend, I wouldn't use brass.

[swodem]

Everyone's trying them, even the knockers!!!

[Zippity]

Everyone's trying them, even the knockers!!!
 

 

Some people have more money than sense

 

What a waste of $200, or is that a side bet that he will beat the Champion Turbo Flex cars at this year's 1/24 Nationals?

[swodem]

The cash was for something else, the chassis is only about $40. It'll be interesting what Steve can get out of it...

[PCH Parts Express]

At yesterdays races one of the LMP entries race a Mossetti with aluminum pan with a Red Fox SC33C Audi body. The car finishes the race and ran well. The winning car in LMP ran a JK chassis with a Lola body. Second place car was also a JK chassis with the Lola body. Earl won concourse and the race.  He also had the fast lap of the race. 

After the Retro Can-Am race ended we ran LMP. Fun was had by all entrants. 

 

The Mossetti chassis that are harder to get should be shipped out from the factory soon.  

[swodem]

 

Some people have more money than sense

 

What a waste of $200, or is that a side bet that he will beat the Champion Turbo Flex cars at this year's 1/24 Nationals?

 

Found something for ya Zippy

 

[swodem]

Latest variation on a theme...

 

[Les Boyd]

Looks as though there is a weak point in the design and there is not going to be an easy fix.
I will keep watching to see what comes.
But for now it appears that Mossetti has not quite come up with a better chassis.
It looks like IMO Mossetti needs to add upturned tads on the pans in line with the openings for a bite bar made of wire, but wait that is what JKs chassis has.

[Rob Voska]

Ran mine at the UK Black in Washington, PA yesterday.  Simply beautiful track. I can't believe the place is not full of racers with every chance to run on it.  Friday track was freshly glued & a little over stuck.  Car worked very well and was pretty quick.  Saturday when the track was run in better and we raced the track got a little loose car responded by being a little loose at the transition between still in a fast corner & power on.  Had to be careful to keep the back from snapping around.  I should have tried tightening the car up a little but at this point I am still looking for a good baseline.

 

New bite bar as seen in my post above worked well with no problems or wear.  

[Fast Freddie]

Has anyone tried a steel bite bar using brass stops but between the brass stop and the chassis install a phenolic or aluminum arm washer?  They should wear better than pin heads and it's easy to increase the bore size on either one.  I use to do this on Flexi 1 chassis to limit play between the pan and center at the front axle. 

[MSwiss]

I'm guessing you haven't seen a chassis in person.

 

That couldn't possibly work.

 

Nothing of any significant diameter can be used as a stop or keeper, without jamming up the bite bar.

 

(post has been edited)

[Fast Freddie]

No I haven't Mike, but from what your saying that would put the bore of the hole on the pan right at the surface of the pan, correct?  Doesn't that limit the size of the bite bar?  Do you have a profile shot of the pan? 

[kvanpelt]

That is correct Fred, flush with the exception of a slight burr.

[kvanpelt]

This is my solution to the problem. Only solder approx. 1/3 of the spring wire.

 

I expect to make a few different sizes to tune the amount of movement.

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[Matt Sheldon]

That is nice and clean Kevin