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1967 Gurney Indy Eagle 1/24 build


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#51 Bill from NH

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Posted 22 October 2016 - 05:51 PM

So is the answer, you find it easier to transfer the pin tube's length from an .063" brass rod than the slightly bigger Q-tip shaft? I think the use of the Q-tip shaft to establish pintube length is a good idea, but I've never built an Indy/F1 chassis.  Mine have all been for sportscar bodies.


Bill Fernald

If a chicken coop has 4 doors, does that make it a sedan?





#52 Pablo

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Posted 23 October 2016 - 07:16 AM

Correct; easier to get a precise measurement with something small OD.

If I had some wood Q-tips with smaller shafts it would save me a step.

Or maybe a toothpick would be the answer.

 

No matter what you use, the important thing is getting it right.

Note the shape of the body front axle cutouts - this chassis has to be carefully wiggled and shoehorned into the shell each time.

 

Chassis is out of the tumbler

 

IMG_3383.JPG

 

IMG_3393.JPG

 

IMG_3405.JPG

 

IMG_3406.JPG

 

 

 


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#53 dc-65x

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Posted 23 October 2016 - 10:49 AM

Very period "Korrect" looking to me Pablo. Very nice indeed.


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#54 Bill from NH

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Posted 23 October 2016 - 03:57 PM

Nice chassis Pablo! Thanks for responding to my assumption. Q-tips last had wooden shafts when I was a kid. :laugh2:  But today, you can get cardboard, as well as plastic shafts. The round tooth pick I'm currently sucking on must have about 11/2" of .060 dia. wood. Wooden match sticks might work too, but there is no reason to change what you're using. because It works.


Bill Fernald

If a chicken coop has 4 doors, does that make it a sedan?


#55 Pablo

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Posted 23 October 2016 - 07:12 PM

Thank you, gentlemen :) One more coat of glaze on the decals then she's ready to paint

 

IMG_3419.JPG

 


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Paul Wolcott

#56 Pablo

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Posted 24 October 2016 - 12:03 PM

Final sanding on the Ortmanns - 400 grit followed by 2,000 on the Hudy and I'm happy they way they turned out.

They will look great with the Pattos Goodyear Eagle decals and inserts with a coat of Mop n Glo.

 

But I sure wish there was a way to fill in those huge craters..... think I'll start a new thread.....maybe the home track guys will know :)

 

IMG_3421.JPG


Paul Wolcott

#57 bluecars

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Posted 24 October 2016 - 03:04 PM

Might try 3M black adhesive.


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#58 Bill from NH

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Posted 24 October 2016 - 06:31 PM

No mention of a motor has been made. It is going to have a motor, isn't it? :)


Bill Fernald

If a chicken coop has 4 doors, does that make it a sedan?


#59 Samiam

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Posted 24 October 2016 - 06:48 PM

I have used windshield sealer. 


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#60 Pablo

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Posted 25 October 2016 - 09:16 AM

Bill, no motor, no gears, no flag. But it is built to fit a 16D EB drive, about 7/35 gears, Cox flag, and 1/16 level clearance with 1.1" and 1.00" OD wheels.

If the owner ever wants to run it, everything will fit perfectly - with one small exception:

I won't be trimming the shell for flag rotation, since it won't have one. But curved scissors can fix that real quick  :D 


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#61 Pablo

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Posted 27 October 2016 - 06:25 PM

I tried multiple substances and methods to fill the craters in the Ortmann tires - all have failed so far.

 

IMG_3447.JPG


Paul Wolcott

#62 beardogracing

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Posted 27 October 2016 - 06:53 PM

All urethane tyres are iffy for F1 cars, Paul. There's a new company called BOSA tyres, they do a great job on both sides, but unfortunately they haven't done any 1/24 tyres yet. Urethane tyres are usually bought for performance on hard body cars, not looks.

 

The Eagle is going to look great anyway!


Chris Wright

 

nRW8qQsEZkLUgHSN2Kp6.jpg

 

 


#63 Pablo

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Posted 28 October 2016 - 02:49 PM

Finally found some Permatex Black Silicone adhesive locally - tough to find, but so far seems to be working.


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#64 Pablo

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Posted 28 October 2016 - 07:10 PM

Three coats of a mix of dark blue, metallic blue, and black Testors enamels, backed up with one coat of straight metallic blue.

 

I'm pretty happy with it - thanks, Rick :good: - a little overspray wiped right off with Testors thinner "no problemo." :D

 

IMG_3455.JPG


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#65 dc-65x

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Posted 28 October 2016 - 07:26 PM

Looks great, Pablo!  :dance3: :)


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#66 Bill from NH

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Posted 28 October 2016 - 08:19 PM

The body came out looking nice! Are those decals Patto's? Are there any advantages to spraying enamels rather than acrylics and other solvent-based paints? I have some PETG bodies to paint.


Bill Fernald

If a chicken coop has 4 doors, does that make it a sedan?


#67 Pablo

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Posted 28 October 2016 - 08:55 PM

Thank you, gents - without your tutoring I'd be nowhere :)

Bill, the decals are a smattering of mismatched items from here, there, and everywhere.

Paints - my opinion is, no advantage to enamels over acrylics on a butyrate body like this, other than nostalgia.

They didn't have acrylics for slot bodies when Lancer sold these, as far as I know.

Lacquer paints are not good for butyrate bodies, that is for sure.

 

Using enamels on this body was simply for old times sake, and for a learning challenge.

Thank God I survived it intact :laugh2:

 

 


Paul Wolcott

#68 Pablo

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Posted 29 October 2016 - 01:40 PM

Ortmann tire update: after a second application coat of Permatex Black Silicone adhesive in the craters, my conclusion is, it worked "OK".

Adhesion wasn't great - but good enough for a static model. It will come right off if scratched with a fingernail.

It needs at least 2 applications to fill in large holes.

It's a little too glossy to be a perfect color match, but the floor polish may fix that.

Overall, I consider it an improvement but not as good as I'd hoped.

 

IMG_3472.JPG

 

While cutting the cockpit out of the Lancer Eagle, I watched the 1967 Indy 500 on You Tube :D

Man, those were the days...... Andy Granatelli working the pits in a tie and red sports coat, cleaning up a fuel spill..... :popcorm1:

 

Gurney's car being pushed to the garage after a hard day at the office

 

IMG_3465.JPG

 

Explaining the problems to ABC's Jim McKay - faulty fuel valve wouldn't allow drawing off the left side tank.

Once the engine started running lean due to lack of flow, burned some valves and he was running on 7

 

IMG_3466.JPG


Paul Wolcott

#69 Neckcheese

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Posted 29 October 2016 - 02:15 PM

You can get black cyano glue. It used for gluing PU tyres etc, but could be useful for fillimg the holes in your tyres, too.

 

Niels, DK


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#70 Pablo

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Posted 30 October 2016 - 09:58 AM

Tried both the Pattos tire emblem stickers and waterslide decals - the waterslides work the best.

Here they are with a coat of Mop N Glo

 

IMG_3481.JPG


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#71 Pablo

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Posted 31 October 2016 - 08:59 AM

Intake stacks and exhaust pipes done

 

IMG_3496.JPG

 

Gurney ran only a right side mirror in '67

 

IMG_3505.JPG


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#72 Tex

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Posted 31 October 2016 - 10:03 AM

color looks good, Pablo.


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#73 SlotStox#53

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Posted 31 October 2016 - 10:47 AM

A bit late to the party but excellent job on the body Pablo! The color and in particular the decal job look fantastic :D

#74 Pablo

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Posted 04 November 2016 - 10:05 AM

Thanks, guys :)

 

Interior is done, secured with small pins and small earring keepers

 

IMG_3537.JPG

 

IMG_3528.JPG


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#75 Bud Greene

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Posted 04 November 2016 - 12:37 PM

I like this one where did you get those intake stacks

#76 Pablo

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Posted 04 November 2016 - 01:23 PM

PM Bryan Warmack


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#77 Pablo

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Posted 05 November 2016 - 11:55 PM

On the real car, I'm guessing the platform type device atop the exhaust "stingers" was an attempt at air control.

I placed an Eagle waterslide decal on a piece of painted Lexan.

"Hose clamps" on the stingers are thin strips of Pactra silver trim tape.

 

IMG_3551.JPG

 

At this point, body is 100% done so I applied a coat of Mop N Glo to shine, protect, and seal

 

IMG_3556.JPG


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#78 Bill from NH

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Posted 06 November 2016 - 08:17 AM

Is Mop-N-Glo an acrylic wax? I picked up a bottle of LA's Mop N Shine at Dollartree. It was recommended but several west coast model car builders.


Bill Fernald

If a chicken coop has 4 doors, does that make it a sedan?


#79 Pablo

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Posted 06 November 2016 - 11:49 AM

I assume it's acrylic but it doesn't say on the bottle. My bottle is several years old and this formula probably isn't even sold any more.

In tests with new "Future" (it has recently changed in formula also) the ol' Mop N Glo outperforms it. On slot car bodies, anyway.

Floors may be a different story :)


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#80 Mattb

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Posted 06 November 2016 - 01:48 PM

The old "Future" is now Pledge in a somewhat weaker formula. It can be found at Ace hardware stores. I've used it, but still prefer either clear lacquer or Rustoleum clear enamel, which actually dries hard and completely in a day.
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#81 Pablo

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Posted 07 November 2016 - 09:58 AM

Last step - inserts - probably the biggest challenge of the build.

After trying some paint experiments with the Pattos, I doubt I'll end up using them.

 

I did, however, find a good method to trim them to size in an almost perfect circle - Red Valantine suggested it.

Even though I'll probably not use the Pattos this time, I'll show you Red's idea.

Find a hub with an OD slightly bigger than the ID you need.

 

IMG_3589.JPG

 

Attach an axle, chuck it up to your poor man's lathe, spin it up and stick a spinning Dremel sanding arbor inside it to remove material to sharpen the end.

Place it against the insert over a surface that won't dull the edge much, like wood. Smack it with a hammer a couple three times

 

IMG_3595.JPG

 

Comes out like a round cookie. It can be made even better with some sandpaper. Hub will probably need a sharpening touch up before doing the next one.

 

IMG_3601.JPG

 

Hoping the mailman brings me some rare and unavailable BWA Halibrands today :dance3:


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#82 SlotStox#53

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Posted 07 November 2016 - 10:10 AM

How simple is that? :D Great idea from Red, noted for future insert issues :laugh2:

#83 Bill from NH

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Posted 07 November 2016 - 10:40 AM

The insert's resin didn't crack when you tried this method. I've got a set of Chinese arch punches that might work too.


Bill Fernald

If a chicken coop has 4 doors, does that make it a sedan?


#84 Pablo

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Posted 07 November 2016 - 11:04 AM

There is no resin, just PETG.


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#85 Bill from NH

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Posted 07 November 2016 - 01:58 PM

I wasn't aware anyone was making wheel insert from PETG. I don't use them, but was familiar with resin ones. This must be Patto's,since his bodies are PETG.

 

When you used the Mop N Glo, how did you apply it? Did you airbrush it, dip the body in it, or brush it on. I've read of Future being successfully applied using all three methods by 1/32 guys. It's pretty much self-leveling, so application means isn't that important.


Bill Fernald

If a chicken coop has 4 doors, does that make it a sedan?


#86 Pablo

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Posted 07 November 2016 - 02:15 PM

IMG_3609.JPG


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#87 dc-65x

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Posted 07 November 2016 - 05:55 PM

Your project is looking great Pablo. Thanks for the tip on the wheel inserts too. :good:
 
Bill,
 
Here's my limited experience with Future/Pledge wax. It worked great for me on this one:
 
 

I tired something to help my crappy paint and decal job look better and it worked beyond my wildest dreams:
 
cobrabody9.jpg
 
A brushed on coat of floor wax worked miracles. The paint took on a high gloss. The decals blended much better into the paint and the cast resin windscreen became crystal clear...........amazing! :dance3:


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Rick Thigpen
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#88 Bill from NH

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Posted 07 November 2016 - 07:34 PM

I would say it worked okay! :)  :)


Bill Fernald

If a chicken coop has 4 doors, does that make it a sedan?


#89 Pablo

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Posted 10 November 2016 - 09:49 AM

These BWA Halibrand inserts cannot be replaced, so the prudent thing is to experiment with other inserts to perfect my plan.

The left one is the Halibrand, the right a test monkey. I plan to use a 3" threaded axle lightly snugged to the wheels.

Nylon spacers to set the depths, 1/8" holes through the inserts, then knockoffs screwed down onto them, finished with a drop of black paint on the axle ends.

 

IMG_3611.JPG

 

To narrow the knockoffs, I threaded both onto the axle backwards to the point I wanted to stop trimming them.

Then snugged a nut up against them with my vintage wrench :)

Fed them into the disc sander until it reached the axle ends. Now they are about .065 thickness as opposed to .133 stock.


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#90 Bill from NH

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Posted 10 November 2016 - 10:28 AM

Wheels are looking good. Cox included those those wrenches with all their slot cars. I have a couple I once used.  Do as you want, but I would take an impression of those BWA Halibrand inserts so I would have some for future projects, if needed..


Bill Fernald

If a chicken coop has 4 doors, does that make it a sedan?


#91 Pablo

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Posted 10 November 2016 - 12:47 PM

Drilling the holes worked fine, I put them in a set of old wheels and just pushed the bit through the hub and insert.

I used .178" long spacers behind the inserts and a pair of brand new Model-Rama 3" axles

Mechanically I think I'm set

 

IMG_3624.JPG


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#92 Pablo

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Posted 10 November 2016 - 05:31 PM

I tried to match the color of the wheels in this photo

 

1967-Indy-Qualifying-Dan-74-Eagle138-700x458.jpg

 

Testors enamel flat black with some flat white looks pretty close to me. Sprayed with my Iwata Eclipse at about 40 PSI.

I cut (the finest) strips of Pactra silver tape in half to highlight the outer edges

 

IMG_3630.JPG

 

I'm hoping it works out nice :)


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#93 Neckcheese

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Posted 10 November 2016 - 06:58 PM

Try Testor/ModelMaster Metalizer exhaust colour - you can buff the surface to create dept  - highly recommendable range of colours for engine, exhaust etc

 

Niels, DK

 

http://www.testors.c...r-paint/bottles


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#94 dc-65x

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Posted 10 November 2016 - 08:33 PM

Looking good Pablo  :victory:


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#95 Pablo

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Posted 11 November 2016 - 09:40 PM

Thank you, gentlemen :)  I sprayed a second coat of enamel on the inserts today

 

IMG_3640.JPG

 

and experimented with the Pactra silver tape. I tried several different products, and it looks like the tape by itself with no coating will work fine.


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#96 Pablo

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Posted 12 November 2016 - 10:00 PM

Dan Gurney's 1967 Indianapolis 500 car:

 

1967-Indy-Qualifying-Dan-74-Eagle138-700x458.jpg

 

Pablo Gurney replica car:

 

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Paul Wolcott

#97 Bill from NH

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Posted 13 November 2016 - 12:42 AM

The car came out nice! The wheel inserts really set it off. do you recall where the Goodyear tire decals came from? One suggestion I might make, is to put some sort of patina on the brass axle tubes where they stick out from the body.The shiny brass makes it look like the new built, which of course it is.


Bill Fernald

If a chicken coop has 4 doors, does that make it a sedan?


#98 Pablo

Pablo

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Posted 13 November 2016 - 09:20 AM

Thanks Bill :)

The tire decals are waterslides from Pattos - I remember those because they were a special order just for this car :D

He makes them in stickers also, but the Ortmanns "liked" the waterslides better.

 

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I got so wound up with the wheels and body.........

 

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....that I almost forgot it has a chassis underneath :laugh2:

 

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It is built to be assembled into a running slot car if desired with the addition of the following parts:

-Cox quickchange flag and braid

-16D endbell drive motor

-7/35 gears

-Non-threaded 1/8" OD axles

-#723 Russkit style set screw wheels with 1.0" front and 1.1" rear OD tires


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Paul Wolcott

#99 Dominator

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Posted 13 November 2016 - 09:31 AM

Beautiful!

A motor is only as fast as the chassis it's in.

 

Dominic Luongo

 

NERR photos from 2012-April 2016

 

NERR photos from 2016 to now


#100 Pablo

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Posted 13 November 2016 - 09:50 AM

Thanks, and I forgot to mention another thing I learned on this build - sprayed enamel responds quite well to a blow dryer :good:


Paul Wolcott





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