104 replies to this topic

[Bill from NH]

So is the answer, you find it easier to transfer the pin tube's length from an .063" brass rod than the slightly bigger Q-tip shaft? I think the use of the Q-tip shaft to establish pintube length is a good idea, but I've never built an Indy/F1 chassis.  Mine have all been for sportscar bodies.

[Pablo]

Correct; easier to get a precise measurement with something small OD.

If I had some wood Q-tips with smaller shafts it would save me a step.

Or maybe a toothpick would be the answer.

 

No matter what you use, the important thing is getting it right.

Note the shape of the body front axle cutouts - this chassis has to be carefully wiggled and shoehorned into the shell each time.

 

Chassis is out of the tumbler

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[dc-65x]

Very period "Korrect" looking to me Pablo. Very nice indeed.

[Bill from NH]

Nice chassis Pablo! Thanks for responding to my assumption. Q-tips last had wooden shafts when I was a kid.   But today, you can get cardboard, as well as plastic shafts. The round tooth pick I'm currently sucking on must have about 11/2" of .060 dia. wood. Wooden match sticks might work too, but there is no reason to change what you're using. because It works.

[Pablo]

Thank you, gentlemen One more coat of glaze on the decals then she's ready to paint

 

 

[Pablo]

Final sanding on the Ortmanns - 400 grit followed by 2,000 on the Hudy and I'm happy they way they turned out.

They will look great with the Pattos Goodyear Eagle decals and inserts with a coat of Mop n Glo.

 

But I sure wish there was a way to fill in those huge craters..... think I'll start a new thread.....maybe the home track guys will know

 

[bluecars]

Might try 3M black adhesive.

[Bill from NH]

No mention of a motor has been made. It is going to have a motor, isn't it?

[Samiam]

I have used windshield sealer. 

[Pablo]

Bill, no motor, no gears, no flag. But it is built to fit a 16D EB drive, about 7/35 gears, Cox flag, and 1/16 level clearance with 1.1" and 1.00" OD wheels.

If the owner ever wants to run it, everything will fit perfectly - with one small exception:

I won't be trimming the shell for flag rotation, since it won't have one. But curved scissors can fix that real quick   

[Pablo]

I tried multiple substances and methods to fill the craters in the Ortmann tires - all have failed so far.

 

[beardogracing]

All urethane tyres are iffy for F1 cars, Paul. There's a new company called BOSA tyres, they do a great job on both sides, but unfortunately they haven't done any 1/24 tyres yet. Urethane tyres are usually bought for performance on hard body cars, not looks.

 

The Eagle is going to look great anyway!

[Pablo]

Finally found some Permatex Black Silicone adhesive locally - tough to find, but so far seems to be working.

[Pablo]

Three coats of a mix of dark blue, metallic blue, and black Testors enamels, backed up with one coat of straight metallic blue.

 

I'm pretty happy with it - thanks, Rick - a little overspray wiped right off with Testors thinner "no problemo."

 

[dc-65x]

Looks great, Pablo! 

[Bill from NH]

The body came out looking nice! Are those decals Patto's? Are there any advantages to spraying enamels rather than acrylics and other solvent-based paints? I have some PETG bodies to paint.

[Pablo]

Thank you, gents - without your tutoring I'd be nowhere

Bill, the decals are a smattering of mismatched items from here, there, and everywhere.

Paints - my opinion is, no advantage to enamels over acrylics on a butyrate body like this, other than nostalgia.

They didn't have acrylics for slot bodies when Lancer sold these, as far as I know.

Lacquer paints are not good for butyrate bodies, that is for sure.

 

Using enamels on this body was simply for old times sake, and for a learning challenge.

Thank God I survived it intact

 

 

[Pablo]

Ortmann tire update: after a second application coat of Permatex Black Silicone adhesive in the craters, my conclusion is, it worked "OK".

Adhesion wasn't great - but good enough for a static model. It will come right off if scratched with a fingernail.

It needs at least 2 applications to fill in large holes.

It's a little too glossy to be a perfect color match, but the floor polish may fix that.

Overall, I consider it an improvement but not as good as I'd hoped.

 

 

While cutting the cockpit out of the Lancer Eagle, I watched the 1967 Indy 500 on You Tube

Man, those were the days...... Andy Granatelli working the pits in a tie and red sports coat, cleaning up a fuel spill.....

 

Gurney's car being pushed to the garage after a hard day at the office

 

 

Explaining the problems to ABC's Jim McKay - faulty fuel valve wouldn't allow drawing off the left side tank.

Once the engine started running lean due to lack of flow, burned some valves and he was running on 7

 

[n.elmholt]

You can get black cyano glue. It used for gluing PU tyres etc, but could be useful for fillimg the holes in your tyres, too.

 

Niels, DK

[Pablo]

Tried both the Pattos tire emblem stickers and waterslide decals - the waterslides work the best.

Here they are with a coat of Mop N Glo

 

[Pablo]

Intake stacks and exhaust pipes done

 

 

Gurney ran only a right side mirror in '67

 

[Tex]

color looks good, Pablo.

[SlotStox#53]

A bit late to the party but excellent job on the body Pablo! The color and in particular the decal job look fantastic

[Pablo]

Thanks, guys

 

Interior is done, secured with small pins and small earring keepers

 

 

[Bud Greene]

I like this one where did you get those intake stacks