3139 replies to this topic

[JerseyJohn]

NICE WORK Z MAN !!!!!!

[Craig]

It has been a long time since I've posted any of my work here on Slotblog.  

 

So, I'll give you all a taste of what I've done recently.

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Dominator]

As always great builds Craig.  On the top chassis, does the guide and motor box float?

[Tim Neja]

As always great builds Craig.  On the top chassis, does the guide and motor box float?

Yes--- this design has been developed by another BPR Hard Body racer known  as "Gonzo"!  His hard bodies handle great with this design.  Might be interesting to see if it would work in Retro? 

[Craig]

As always great builds Craig.  On the top chassis, does the guide and motor box float?

Yes Dom, the nose piece and motor box do indeed float.

[MSwiss]

Nice work.

I see the forward stop, but is there anything that prevents the motor from sliding back an 1/8"+?

I tried something like that, 6 or 7 years ago, in F1, because there wasn't a connected main rail rule, like Can Am.

It was pretty average, on my King track.

IIRC, I wadded it up in R4/5 practice.

[Craig]

I see the forward stop, but is there anything that prevents the motor from sliding back an 1/8"+?

 

The motor box moves less than .0625.  The car this is fashioned off moves a bit more.

[CDavis7]

Mixed bag f1: 6 rails .047; shortish wheelbase. JK nose and pans. Kong guide brace. Swiss bracket

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[Dominator]

Someone is getting ready for Saturday. Looks good CD

[glueside]

Rebuilt a chassis for a local racer that was using a double rail .063" and made it into an eight rail .047".

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[blkdout76]

CD likes showing the same pic twice 😉

[Ecurie Martini]

(With apologies to Monty Python)  "And now for something completely different"

 

_Actually, not that different - examination will reveal that all of the usual pieces, functions and actions are represented but translated to the world of 1/32 scale hard body racing.

 

Front and rear chassis sections and pans machined from a single brass sheet

 

 

Webs connecting the parts ae left in place until hinges, pivot etc are installed, assuring alignment.  Sidewinder motor/axle mounts are separate to be soldered into pre-cut grooves.

 

Motor/axle carriers added:

 

 

Resistance soldering - electrode dragged along inside of joint while solder applied to the outside

 

Finished chassis  (front pan webs still to be cut)

 

 

Front axle carrier similar to rear - guide tongue a bolt-on to facilitate adjustment and/ guide change

 

It "twists" and "flops" and goes pretty well.

 

EM

[Half Fast]

My take on the Dominator Stalker:

 

Imade the center pan non removable but floating, used a C/L 2 degree tongue and HVR fronts on a Bartos axle

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[crazyphysicsteacher]

So here is my newest creation. New stock car chassis based off of a dominator and the kamo cars. 055 side rails with the center fork set to float in the bracket. The pans are box tubing and torsion flex at the rear by the bracket. The car is just waiting for a front axle and bearings . Now where did that axle go.......

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[Dominator]

Nice job Chris. Something you can add to help with tuning is some inserts for the box tubing.  You could have aluminum, brass, and steel inserts.  A little blue locktite should help keep any inserts in place and still easy enough to remove.

[crazyphysicsteacher]

Dom, part of the plan. I am already planning my next build.

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[NSwanberg]

fisks be funerer then inglesh ever are

[team burrito]

i haven't posted anything for awhile, so let's try this:

 

 

[JerseyJohn]

Very cool cars!!

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[MartinM]

New build, R-Geo GVP nose, Arrow pans, Swiss motor bracket. 52 grams.

 

 

Very Nice Chassis !! What size are the rails ?

[MartinM]

Complete car track tested and going out to Matt

 

Nice looking body !!!  What is it and who makes it ??

[Cap Henry]

.047 side rails .062 fork

[slotcarone]

Martin the Jail Door body is a Truescale Lotus 40 painted by Noose.

[DE38]

Just finished an X-Factor chassis, went with a straight rail, 6- .047 , first tuning fork I built.

 

 

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[Greg VanPeenen]

Just finished an X-Factor chassis, went with a straight rail, 6- .047 , first tuning fork I built.

 

 

Take a half inch bit of wire to the track with you to solder in between the tuning fork wires at the rear where they kick out. Should make the chassis better. If you don't like what it does you can just remove it.

 

 

Regards, 

GVP