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#1376 Tom Eatherly

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Posted 25 March 2013 - 10:42 PM

Preston, your work is just getting better and better. Awesome builds my friend.


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#1377 ejgehrken

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Posted 25 March 2013 - 11:00 PM

Great build Preston!


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#1378 Pablo

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Posted 28 March 2013 - 07:02 PM

Anybody know who built this ?

It's pretty nice.......

 

DSC06917.JPG

 

DSC06921.JPG

DSC06922.JPG


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#1379 JHMerriman

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Posted 28 March 2013 - 08:25 PM

Joe "Jobiwan" McIntosh


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#1380 Pablo

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Posted 28 March 2013 - 08:32 PM

Thanks James, but, how do you get "Joe McIntosh" from "JVRP" or JVRD"  ?

Just askin' :)


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#1381 John Streisguth

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Posted 28 March 2013 - 09:48 PM

Here's an f1 I just finished. I started with an FSF kit with 1" motor bracket.  The idea was multiple small rails (037) with a tuning fork of 047, to try and have it twisting around the center wishbone. I intended to use 4 037 rails on each side and narrow the stock pans a little, but ended up adding 2 rails per side, so I had to go with a single 063 wire for each "pan", with a set-up similar to Tony P's "Wallenda" design.  The biggest PIA was the center rattle-pan set up with the 3 pieces.  It will get tested at the next Retro East race on April 6th...I just hope it was worth all the trouble  LOL

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"Whatever..."

#1382 John Streisguth

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Posted 28 March 2013 - 09:49 PM

deleted duplicate post


"Whatever..."

#1383 JHMerriman

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Posted 28 March 2013 - 09:55 PM

It's actually "TVRP", something Joe has used since I've known him.

The real reason I know this chassis is becasue I've been beat by it more times than I'd like to admit. Joe builds some of the best cars around, and I wished he would race more than he does.


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#1384 Pablo

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Posted 28 March 2013 - 10:06 PM

Thanks James ! :)

I'm tumbling it, and installing BB fronts. The new owner is John Clow. It is a sweet chassis !


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#1385 Brian

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Posted 28 March 2013 - 10:14 PM

I've never seen a build like this..... looks like I'll hit the bench & give it try!

 

Thanks guys, for using my products!!!!!!!


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#1386 Jim Lange

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Posted 29 March 2013 - 11:36 PM

Just finished my first F1. 10 rails of .039, torsion pans. I dig the flex this thing has. Kinda like a eurosport. Can't wait to try it at the Zimmerman. I piled all the components on the scale an it looks like it will weigh about 92g.

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  • F1 27L004_edited.JPG
  • F1 27L003_edited.JPG

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#1387 DCR

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Posted 29 March 2013 - 11:55 PM

.......Looks great Jim!.......you really have wire bending down to a art,you need to give me some tips some time.......Take care,,Don
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#1388 Brian Ambrose

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Posted 30 March 2013 - 12:31 AM

I took a idea from this blog and added my twist. " manta ray"
I used 8 rails of .47 and a .47 bite bar. I used a .78 front tie bar. HRV front BB fronts. image.jpg image.jpg

#1389 Brian Ambrose

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Posted 30 March 2013 - 12:36 AM

Sorry about the double pic. I'm using my phone and thought I deleted the first pic.
Before & after..... Fun build. Then I took a brush on my dremel and some toothpaste and polished it up a bit.

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#1390 Brian Ambrose

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Posted 30 March 2013 - 12:44 AM

Race ready it weighs 102.3.

#1391 zforce

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Posted 30 March 2013 - 02:09 AM

Terminal Velocity Racing Products

It's actually "TVRP", something Joe has used since I've known him.

The real reason I know this chassis is becasue I've been beat by it more times than I'd like to admit. Joe builds some of the best cars around, and I wished he would race more than he does.


Tommy Flythe

#1392 Pablo

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Posted 30 March 2013 - 08:13 AM

Thanks, Tommy, I will relay that info to the new owner....


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#1393 MantaRay

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Posted 30 March 2013 - 10:48 AM

Brian.......looks good.......you may want to brace the front of the pans. Its a lot weaker after cutting out the middle.
You did Agreat at the R4......
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#1394 Dominator

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Posted 30 March 2013 - 02:22 PM

Love the look of the F-1 Jim


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#1395 Brian Ambrose

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Posted 30 March 2013 - 03:09 PM

I have a question for all the builders out here.
How do I solder on my jig and not make it look like crap on the bottom of what I'm soldering? ( rails ) it always looks like ruff sand paper when I turn it over.

One more question... What can I use to clean up the chassis after I'm done soldering. I don't have a tumbler yet. I always use motor cleaner & lighter fluid durning and after building. But hours after the chassis look horrible.

#1396 Pablo

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Posted 30 March 2013 - 04:32 PM

A toothbrush, a small hand brush, liquid soap, water, and Comet or Ajax.  Works almost as good as a tumbler.

Then rinse well, dry completely, and soak in WD-40.

 

2,000 grit wet and dry sandpaper from the automotive section of Wal Mart shines brass sheet real well.


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#1397 slotcarone

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Posted 30 March 2013 - 04:36 PM

A few suggestions.  First make sure all of the parts you are soldering are cleaned and polished before you start building. Secong I suggest putting the solder on the tip of the iron and then on to the part you are soldering. This way you can control the amount of solder you put on and start with a small amount and after it flows evenly you can add a small amount more if necessary until the joint looks correct. Third I recommend bringing your work to the sink and using SOS pads during and after the build.  This works great for removing the acid and shines the parts.  Hope this helps.


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#1398 Brian Ambrose

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Posted 30 March 2013 - 05:29 PM

What can I do about when I folder the rails to the brass? It always looks like crisp under while looking good on top. I've used 2 different surfaces. I have used my jig that's corian and I have a piece of marble.

#1399 slotcarone

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Posted 30 March 2013 - 06:27 PM

Sounds to me like you have too much solder on there. Use very little and if the bottom doesn't look right put some acid on the bottom and put it back on the jig and reheat the joint.  Can you post a picture of what you are talking about?


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#1400 NSwanberg

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Posted 31 March 2013 - 02:10 AM

I quit using cleansers with bleach. I find it tarnishes the solder and the piano wire. I use toothpaste. Crest seems to work the best with a stiff tooth brush. This gets the acid off. Then I use an SOS or Brillo pad to get that brass nice and shiny. My wife made the mistake of leaving a naptha soap bar on the wash sink and now I use that for a final wash. Rinse everything with as hot of water as you can get and then immediately towel and blow dry. Oil anything that moves with Tri Flow. My frames look nice and shiny now if I could only get them to handle better.


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