3139 replies to this topic

[JimF]

Typical excellent workmanship and innovative design from Mr. G. And yes.....the solder joint on what would otherwise be the "center hinge" is exceptionally well disguised.

[John Miller]

You mean a frame posted on photobucket doesn't require tech? Even if they are not claimed to be a "retro" chassis?

 

Tom,

 

Did you miss this?  lol

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[shadow]

Don't the screws need to be covered by the seal also

[Joe Mig]

I'm sure they will be covered by the time it will need to go thru tech at the next IRRA ™ event. 

[TG Racing]

Are the front wheels independent?  I see the bearings in the uprights.  Beautiful work!

[Preston M]

Newest addition to the fleet:

 

[Dominator]

Here's another one off I did for Bob Hughes "The Witch Carver".

 

*  Tru Scale .020 thick Porshe body

*  Protrack 1/2" wide drag tires .940 diameter front with .015 clearance, 1.060  diameter on the rear with .050 clearance

*  Chassis - Nose peice is .032 brass with .063 pans and .078 main rails

*  GL 7/16"

*  WB 4-1/16"

*  Weight will be around 145 grams.

 

 

[Tex]

Good lookin' wheels make ALL the difference; nice one, Dom!

[macman]

New build... Original JK kit. I never built one of these when they were new, so when I recently found an unbuilt kit, I decided to build it in light of what is being done on these pages today. I have also seen quite a few modernizing rebuilds of old chassis & incorporated some ideas from those. Instead of 4 paralell rails soldered to rear bracket, all on the outside like my last 2 builds, I took Mike Katz's advice & bent some of the wire up to make uprights to support the motor bracket. The first outside going to the rear of bracket behind oilite, then one which stops at exterior of bracket at outside 90, serving as a spacer between first & 3rd rails. The third inside the bracket at the forward 90 with the fourth & final rail on the outside of the bracket & angled away from the motor. In-spite of this circuitous explanation, this picture hopefully explains the above. I think this will work much better. Also added a .25 ledge of .062 brass inside of bracket for both bracing & rear weight.

 

 

 

 

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[slotcarone]

Looking good Ben!!  A few things to look out for--I always build with a junk falcon motor screwed to the bracket to make sure it will sit correctly. Also make sure those inner rails are not too close together to clear the seal and can screws on a Pro Slot motor.  Have fun!!

[macman]

  The pans & nose piece was lightened, a JK steel brace added to the integral coined guide tongue as well as a piece of the .078 rail supplied with the kit was used for nose bracing. Pans were set up as a slider, with minimal movement. I also added 2 L shaped solid pans to the rear of the chassis for additional weight. I used 1/8 square tubing to tie & strengthen this solid pan to the rest of the chassis. Solid body mounts in stock position. I finally figured how to get extra solder off chassis with minimal work using a common Dremel accessory. No weight yet, time to test now. This will probably end up on wall at Slot Car Cave.

 

 

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[macman]

Thanks Mike, Just checked clearance against PS motor, plenty on space; checked fk motor during construction & it was fine too. Not a perfect build, but better. I was not happy with how the thin brass of the initially level plate warped during construction. I normally work with thicker stock which doesn't do that, particularly .062... Next build , a F-1 using the RGeo  DSF1 kit.

[slotcarone]

Looks good Ben.  One thing you will have to do is open the front axle holes to get the correct clearance with JK front tires. The axle needs to be lower in the uprights as you will see.  I always use a small round file to do this. Looks like it will weigh 115-118 grams all built up.

[Preston M]

Last one for next week at speezone...

[John Gorski]

Nice Preston think you are ready!

[Samiam]

Preston,<br />What does it weigh? Looks lean and mean.<br />That kit looks like it would make a good Retro-Pro car.With no minimum weight the pans could be left out and used on a F-1 build.<br /><br />

[Preston M]

They will need lead

[W. J. Dougherty]

Great build... What size wire did you use?

[Preston M]

The first one is .047 the most recent is .062

[usadar]

Will be released after a modification around a nose plate. — IRRA F-1 Kit Proto-Type by Nobu Hanada (3 photos)

 

Front axle careers will stand from a nose plate instead of a guide-tongue. The same guide-tongue with a lead wire retaining part for our Can-Am chassis kit will be used for adjustable distance between a front axle & a guide-flag. 
Made of .047 inch thick brass plates except for a guide-tongue.
We may try .040 thick brass plates for a lighter version.
A motor-bracket is 1 inch wide, being used for our Can-Am kits now.
Side-pans are usable for Can-Am & Stock cars.

 

 

Haruki

[Dominator]

Very cool Haruki!

[Tim Neja]

Very nice Haruki!! Wish I had some of those parts to build with!! No better precision pieces than the Tokyo D-3 stuff!!! Sweet!!

[Justin Wills]

Hi guys.  thanks to everyone who has posted pics and descriptions in this gallery.  it has made my transition to building so much easier and far less daunting.

 

I've been racing since september 2012 with womps and flexis, started building retro cars in feb 2013 and have now competed in 3 retro races for a grand total of about 40 races.

 

I must also say that the build instructions out there are invaluable to a newbie builder, so I will be giving credit where I have looked at/used someones instructions to either build my cars or decide how to build them.  thanks to all who write them.

 

also, the tutorials on Ricks wire benders have also been something I read quite a bit, just to get an understanding of how it all goes together.  

 

6 months ago I barely knew which end of a soldering iron to hold.  now, I think I'm getting the hang of it.  I went through this entire thread about 4 times before I even committed an iron to my first build.

 

my conscience has got the better of me so I'm posting pics here to show thanks for everyone elses posts and how much they've helped me

 

here's a view of my current "fleet" with descriptions and closer pics to come.  thanks guys and build on!

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[Justin Wills]

chassis #1 - JK D3 canam

 

here's my current canam car (chassis #1) along with sister car I built for a mate (chassis #3) both based off the jk flat track instructions by Mike Swiss (thanks Mike).  only difference, I substituted the up/downstops for a bite bar/downstop that I understood.

 

.078 main rails

4" wheelbase

roughly 70g bare

120g complete

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[Justin Wills]

chassis #2 - warmack kit build

 

originally built as per the Philippe de Lespinay guide, with extra weight added to the motor bracket as per Mike Swiss' jk flat track doc.

 

it started life with hinged pans but the pans were way too floppy.  I built a floating bite-bar style up/down stop for it but before I got to drive it, the hinges siezed up, so based on chassis #1 (jk d3) being quicker, I did away with hinges altogether and hard tacked the pans on as if they'd never been sheered off.  

 

this car generates a little more grip than chassis #1 and I'm looking to modify it for a much softer rail setup after using my latest chassis (#7).  maybe turn it into a "w" rail like MantaRay has done in post #834 on page 28.  can anyone see any probs with using .062 wire to make the extra rails and attaching to the existing .078 rails ?

 

.078 rails

.062 "hinges" and bite-bar/downstop

4" wheelbase

7/8 guide lead

jk 1" motor bracket

78g bare

130g complete

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