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#1451 Justin Wills

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Posted 16 April 2013 - 02:39 AM

chassis #4 - JK F1 kit
 
I've just gotta keep thanking everyone who puts together build instructions.  these have helped imensely with my builds.  I don't always follow them to the letter, but such a great starting point to work from.  thanks to 2 more references on slotblog that I looked at (repeatedly) before building this one:
 
SoCal D3 F1 build - JK - F1 'kit' by Jeff Easterly
Dave does D3 F1 for the Checkpoint race by Roger Schmitt
 
in the end, I mostly went with the SoCal D3 build, but added my own interpretation.  this car I also feel is a bit stiff for our flat track in Sydney and it chatters a bit coming off corners when driven hard, but I may just leave it as is and build another F1
 
.078 main rails
.062 shaker pan with pin tubes mounted to it but NOT the pans
4" wheelbase
.062 pan stops in 1/4" square tube at the rear
.062 front wing braces
62g bare
115g complete

Attached Images

  • jw004-jk-f1-bottom.jpg
  • jw004-jk-f1-bare.jpg





#1452 Justin Wills

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Posted 16 April 2013 - 02:41 AM

chassis #5 - a DS F1 copy
 
I started building this one from Mike Pattersons F1 build post (http://slotblog.net/...-chassis-build/)
 
didn't get far, discovered our F1 rules here in Aus are for different rear tyre sizes (.790-.8120), worked out it was jigged wrong and stopped.
 
after building chassis #7, came back to it to test how flexible it was, gave it a good twist and popped the motor bracket out.  I'll leave it for now and may re-visit but probably won't solder the full length of the 3 rails together this time
 
it was going to be like this:
 
4" wheelbase
1" guide lead
S7 guide tongue
2 .062 wire rails
4 .062 brass rails  (all railes soldered full length)
.062 1.5" long center shaker
.062 1.2" long nose
.062 1/4" shaker rails
jk 3/4" motor bracket

Attached Images

  • jw005-ds-f1-rails-on.jpg


#1453 Justin Wills

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Posted 16 April 2013 - 02:43 AM

chassis #6 - RGEO samurai 4
 
I love the look of Ricks kits.  very nice gear.   I based this one off instructions I found by Marty Stanley on another forum.  they were labelled "Building a Can-Am Car Using the RGEO Products Samurai 4.0 Kit"
 
it's pretty much the same, save I mounted the pans differently and didn't put a center shaker in it.  First track test showed it to drive nice and smooth, but de-slot when pushed hard into corners on the flat track.   I added about 8g of lead to the rear of the nose piece which helped just a little.  I'll be installing a center shaker of either .032 or .062 and see how it travels then.  if that doesn't work, I'll redo the center rails and not solder them full length
 
4" wheelbase
3/4" JK motor bracket
10 * .047 mail rails
.062 for everything else
55g bare
109g complete without lead

Attached Images

  • jw006-samurai-bare.jpg
  • jw006-samurai-bottom.jpg


#1454 Justin Wills

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Posted 16 April 2013 - 02:45 AM

chassis #7 - z-rail F1 - AKA "the Flexi Flyer"
 
after reading through everything in this thread at least a dozen times, I decied I wanted to build a z-rail car.  I thought about it for a while and got out of bed 2 days before my first F1 race with an idea... "to the chassis jig!"
 
I finished putting this together and packed my box for the track for race day.  now I've got 2 F1 cars to test before I race.   ran chassis #4, the JK first and then put this one on.  WOW! this thing was a jet.  faster corner entry, more throttle and no chatter.  this one was 4 thenths quicker than the previous one.  come race time, it actally did 3 more laps than my canam car and matched or was quicker on most lanes.  this car excites me and I already have plans for z-rail canam and 2nd generation "flexi flyer"
 
4" wheelbase, 1" guide lead
.062 rails
REHCO 1" * 1/16 drop arm trimmed
RGEO 3/4" motor bracket without axle tube
.062 * 1/4" plumber pans
70g bare
119g complete

 

last post for now, need to build something

Attached Images

  • jw007-zrail-f1-top.jpg
  • jw007-zrail-f1-bottom.jpg


#1455 Tex

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Posted 16 April 2013 - 06:52 AM

Good job, Justin! Ain't scratchbuildin' just too much fun?!


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#1456 John Gorski

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Posted 16 April 2013 - 09:58 AM

Haruki Sano F1 Kit! :victory:  Justin Keep on building dude good stuff! :good: 

Just sent this to Haruki...F1 West Coast Car.

 

563813_248473285293528_1258545075_n.jpg


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#1457 Phil Irvin

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Posted 16 April 2013 - 11:34 AM

Hehehehe........Welcome to the DARK side..........Good thinking about reading the  thread and you have built nice chassis. Getting better on each chassis. You will see it when you line them up. :good:

 

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             PHIL I.



#1458 macman

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Posted 17 April 2013 - 11:51 PM

Hey Justin, check out my take on the original JK in #1436, you might update that 2008 style frame...


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#1459 Andy Watkins

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Posted 19 April 2013 - 09:56 PM

Nice work Justin!

#1460 Preston M

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Posted 19 April 2013 - 10:46 PM

Justin, you can not solder the brass rails to the steel unless you are doing it properly. The two metals react to the heat differently. The brass is going to warp much faster then the piano wire, causing the car to always be under a lot of tension. You have to work quickly When soldering the brass and piano wire together. You can't let the brass heat up too much
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#1461 zootmaster

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Posted 20 April 2013 - 09:56 PM

I finally got a chance to use my tumbler. This is a car I built for a customer in Agawam. Let me know your opinions and advice. Thanks.

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  • todd 1.jpg
  • todd 3.jpg
  • todd 2.jpg

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#1462 SlotStox#53

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Posted 20 April 2013 - 10:07 PM

Very nice looking chassis Russ :)  Haven't got or used one before, so can't offer any advice but appears to me you've done a great job with your tumbler.

 

-Paul



#1463 Preston M

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Posted 20 April 2013 - 11:00 PM

Very nice Russ!! Make sure you put a guide tounge reinforcement on though. Better to have one than not.... I learned the hard way
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#1464 ejgehrken

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Posted 20 April 2013 - 11:05 PM

Awesome build Russ! I second what Preston said.


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#1465 DCR

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Posted 21 April 2013 - 02:54 AM

.....Hello everyone,,Iv finally had sometime to build some new cars.This chassis is similar to my other Kamo/Tony P style chassis,but with a few new tricks to test.I made some "Stops" for the pans to rest on,maybe stopping the chassis from dragging on the track in the bank,,and Im trying some light springs on the pans.It weighs 42.4g so it should build a car in the 90-91g range.

...Don Campbell...

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  • DCR6-1.JPG
  • DCR6-2.JPG

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#1466 ghostg

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Posted 22 April 2013 - 08:37 AM

Nice job Russ
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#1467 John Streisguth

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Posted 22 April 2013 - 11:13 AM

Nice chaiss Don...I like the front downstops for the pans!


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#1468 MSwiss

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Posted 22 April 2013 - 12:32 PM

Nice chaiss Don...I like the front downstops for the pans!

Agreed and agreed.

 

Super-job.


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#1469 Fast Freddie

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Posted 22 April 2013 - 12:45 PM

Don't over look the rear ones also.
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#1470 Tim Neja

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Posted 22 April 2013 - 12:57 PM

Nice looking chassis Don-- looking forward to seeing it GO!! :)


She's real fine, my 409!!!

#1471 redbackspyder

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Posted 22 April 2013 - 04:11 PM

Don, looks like a great chassis, hope you bring it out to the Zimmerman Race this Saturday !!!


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#1472 Brian Ambrose

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Posted 22 April 2013 - 11:51 PM

My new light chassis. Bored at a hotel room again.

#1473 Brian Ambrose

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Posted 23 April 2013 - 12:00 AM

Hummmm sometimes I can upload a pic from my phone and sometimes I can't. I can't this time with the new light chassis.

#1474 MantaRay

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Posted 24 April 2013 - 09:08 AM

"Franken" Manta...........Here is my latest multi rail attempt. It was inspired by a Chassis Brassrodman had built by "Pops" Brantley. 

Nose piece-Bryan Warmack

Guide Tongue-Chicagoland

Pans-RGEO, Milled by Bill Worden

.039 Wire- Race prize from Sano III.....who knew.....lol

Motor Bracket-Tom Lauterbach, Gotten at REM Raceway a couple years ago.

 

7 rails on each side. Weighs 53 g, "Feels" good.........Hope she runs well

DSC04529.JPG

 

 


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#1475 Rick

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Posted 24 April 2013 - 09:28 AM

Nice Ray, now that's a hybrid!................


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