3139 replies to this topic

[Jim Lange]

I like using Fast Orange hand cleaner with pumice and a toothbrush for final cleaning. Small wire brushes work good in between rails, abrasive flap wheels clean up a solder joint nicely and final polish with 1000g to 1500g wet/dry, dremel buff w/compound and Never Dull wad. If you want it to stay nice after you are done, take a sponge brush and put a coat of "Pledge floor care with Future" on it. It will not tarnish and stays bright and shiny . No messy oil. Easily removable with Windex. A tumbler would be nice but I find the chassis's always respond well to the love you give them after assembly. LOL

[Preston M]

Kenny asked me to rebuild his old samson clone, so i went with my center section design. I have built 4 cars similar to this, and all work extremely well.

 

Then Doug asked me to build a car for the showcase at PJR. He handed me a Hanada kit. I have built on of these for Chubby, same design, and it was killer. You can pm me, or call up doug to buy this car.

[gascarnut]

What can I do about when I folder the rails to the brass? It always looks like crisp under while looking good on top. I've used 2 different surfaces. I have used my jig that's corian and I have a piece of marble.

Brian,

 

I know Mike and others do it differently, but this is my experience.

 

What is happening is the flux is still boiling off from under the frame when you apply the solder and that makes for a kind-of rough surface. That's always the risk when you use the soldering iron to transfer the solder to the work. I prefer to apply the flux, heat up everything with a clean iron until the flux stops bubbling, THEN apply solder. Use a thin solder wire, no more than .020" in diameter and that helps control how much solder goes into the joint.

 

IMO, using the iron to carry the solder to the work is for tacking purposes only, when you don't have enough hands to old everything in place for the first joint.

[MantaRay]

A little variation of an RGEO Dragonslayer 3

a 4 and 1 of .047 on each side.

Off to Rick for Testing

Can always add a couple more....lol

[Joe Mig]

One more question... What can I use to clean up the chassis after I'm done soldering. I don't have a tumbler yet. I always use motor cleaner & lighter fluid durning and after building. But hours after the chassis look horrible.

The best I found is good old Brasso metal polish found at your local hardware store. It works great on old used chassis as well.

[rav7kaa1]

Very nice Ray. Looks like a Swiss King car?

[Preston M]

A local racer asked me to build him a stock car...  warrior 2 kit from RGEO, all .047 rails. shaker set up 

[John Gorski]

Gorski Retro "Chaparral" Chassis

http://s89.photobuck...9dd028.jpg.html

[Tex]

Nice lookin' chassis, John. Wish I could hold all the chassis' I see on here, so I'd know how they move.

[Tampabay racer]

After starting life out as a 4x8 inch .032 flat sheet of brass and about 5 thin cutting disks. . This is what was born. I have 12 rails of .047 with what I will call a wish bone tuning fork. I used HVR BB fronts. I will finish this chassis this this weekend by installing pin tubes for body mounting. I shined it up with a rubbing compound rouge the cleaned it with Brasso.

[John Gorski]

Thanks Tex

Just a little floppy movement & back & forth play on this one.

Nice Brian Preston & Ray.

[usadar]

 

Nobu Hanada's proto-type of Retro Tokyo IRRA F-1 chassis kit.

The complete car weighs around 110g, running very stable on our KIng.

Now being test-built by our racers including Kamo-san, it will be improved by their feed-backs.

 

Haruki

[Ralph Thorne]

Anybody know who built this ?

It's pretty nice.......

 

 

It's actually "TVRP", something Joe has used since I've known him.

The real reason I know this chassis is becasue I've been beat by it more times than I'd like to admit. Joe builds some of the best cars around, and I wished he would race more than he does.

 

 

Pablo,this chassis was built for DWR ( Dickie Wilson Racing ) by TVRP ( Terminal Velocity Racing Products ) aka Jobiwan. I would bet this car doesn't have many race laps on it as Dickie sold out shortly after buying the car.

 

With the short guide lead and wheelbase it always worked great on high speed tracks.

 

James, don't worry you never got beat by that one as it was a copy of mine.

[Pablo]

Thanks Ralph.  John Clow owns it now. 

[JHMerriman]

That makes me feel a little better

[gascarnut]

Gorski Retro "Chaparral" Chassis

http://s89.photobuck...9dd028.jpg.html

 

Is that a centerline hinge I see?

[MSwiss]

Dennis,

John had a similar chassis awhile back that Noose assured didn't  pivot.

 

I think John purposely cleans up that solder joint real good to get a reaction. LOL

[Terry]

I'm far from being an expert in chassis building but if you look closely just in front of the endbell, it certainly looks like there is a "center hinge" in that location.

I imagine that this is the area Dennis is questioning as well.

[usadar]

I have got the Can-Am chassis with which John TQ-ed at the Checkpoint Cup in 2012.

The Chassis has a similar center bar but the both ends are soldered to the nose-piece & the bridge before the motor-endbell.

It looks like a center hinge but without movement it is NOT a center hinge.

 

Haruki

[John Miller]

Lot's of good builds being posted up.  Kudo's to everyone.

 

That looks like a shaker peice in the center of John's chassis.

 

Hey John, what does that car weigh?

[MSwiss]

It looks like a center hinge but without movement it is NOT a center hinge.

I hope it's soldered well.
 
If it broke loose mid-race in a crash, the car should  be Dq'ed.lol

[Gator Bob]

"Mustabeeen that hit" 

 

Thin(ned) solder joint, hold the car by the four wheels with thumb and forefinger, ....then like um ....you know .... like a chiropractoric treatement during a lane change. 

 

Very NICE car John !

[JohnnySlotcar]

Looks like the center wire piece is flat,not round???

[MSwiss]

I'll have to check with Cheater, but I'm pretty sure frames in the Scratchbuilt Chassis gallery don't have to pass tech.

[S.O. Watt]

I'll have to check with Cheater, but I'm pretty sure frames in the Scratchbuilt Chassis gallery don't have to pass tech.

You mean a frame posted on photobucket doesn't require tech? Even if they are not claimed to be a "retro" chassis?