3139 replies to this topic

[Pablo]

Mike, if I interpret you correctly, It would be legal for an IRRA Can Am chassis if the .047 rails were sanded to a thickness of >.0376". Do you agree ?

[MSwiss]

Yes, but only on the bottom.

 

BTW, usually by now, Tony P chimes in with something like;

"Mike, when is Chicagoland Raceway coming out with multi-rail chassis decals,

to stick on the bottom of one pc. flat rails?" LOL

[Pablo]

I'm surprized the 047 God from FL has not done this yet.

[MSwiss]

He's probably worried a part of one rail will wind up measuring .0372", and Noose will

bust one of his customer's cars, at a big race.

[Tex]

I think Pablo was wondering why that dood in Florida hasn't built a .032" multi-railer. I'm guessing school is taking all his energy and time.

[MSwiss]

I'm surprized the 047 God from FL has not done this yet.

 

 

He's probably worried a part of one rail will wind up measuring .0372", and Noose will

bust one of his customer's cars, at a big race.

 

 

I think Pablo was wondering why that dood in Florida hasn't built a .032" multi-railer. I'm guessing school is taking all his energy and time.

I was confused.

 

I thought Pablo was referring to Tony P.

 

It sounds like he was talking about Rick Moore.

[Pablo]

No need to beg, I'll do the math for you gentlemen.

.032 wire could be shaved down to .0256 as per IRRA rules (as Mike said, the flat part needs to be on the bottom  )

 

Me, I stopped building retro when Chicagoland started selling JK 25XR chassis ready to race at about $80.

I'm going back to my vintage man cave now, Good Night

[Dominator]

Chassis looks great Eric and should work really well.

[Greg VanPeenen]

Mike,

I have sent Matt Bruce some new cars to run. two versions of a non center hinge/center hinge version of my tuning fork chassis and a 38 rail of .025 wire car. He TQed set fast race lap and won their flat track race with one of the K.I.S.S. 2 tuning forks and we will have to see what happens with the 38 rail car. I ran the 38 rail a bit and had Rick Sloan try it. It appeared to work very well.

So to all the builders out there just keep trying new things you never know how a new design will work. So build it and see.

Greg V.P.
TEAM Black Sheep Racing

[blkdout76]

And that rite there is why Eric represents 3d Racing. Love it kid keep up the good work.

[CDavis7]

Mad props to Eric on these beautiful builds!

-CD
3d-Racing

[Rick Moore]

In answer to Tex, yeah, slot cars, much less scratchbuilding, have been put on hiatus until I finish this school thing (radiography registry exam on July 1; keep those soldering iron burnt fingers crossed…). But since Greg has been after me to post some builds here, and while I’m taking a short respite from academic responsibilities, I’ll throw up (intentional visual imagery) some pics of my last forays into “gee, I wonder if I can build that” thinking for general perusal.

 

During the last winter semester break, abandoning the usual 0.047” wire I’ve been framing with for years, I built my first version of my all-wire 1225 series chassis framed entirely out of 0.039” wire (designated the 1225-Ca2). Besides the main framing components, for this one the center-guide section “pans” and inner side “pans” are 0.032” perimeter wire braced internally with 0.024” wire. I built two of these, one as a CanAm for my horde of racers, and the other went to the Lucky 13 International Thingie Proxy Series entry for Team Evil Minnow.

 

Like all the 1225’s, the 0.039” 1225-Ca2 version looks pretty much the same. The first pic here shows the framing before the center-guide section was attached, to better show some of the various chassis components. The second pic is the completed frame, minus the runny-bits:

 

 

 

 

Then during my spring break I made a 0.039” framed all-wire version of my 1229 series chassis. This chassis design incorporates the same chassis components as the 1225’s, but with some redesigns, most notably the addition of four small “pans” consisting of 0.010” brass sheet soldered within the 0.039” wire framing.

 

Three pics of the 0.039” 1229-Cb2, two at various build stages, and again one of the completed chassis:

 

 

 

 

 

The thing for me was to get the 0.039” frames to have the same structural integrity as the 0.047” framed chassis. It was more just an exercise to see if I could do it, but after running them it didn’t take long to realize these 0.039” wire framed chassis were my new “go to” cars for racing…

 

I didn’t have much time during my final semester break for anything other than school work, but I did pencil out versions of the 1225 and 1229 designs to be completely framed using 0.032” wire… So, it’s just a matter of time…

 

Speaking of which, it’s time for me to get “back to the books”…

 

Rick(x) / CMF3

 

 

[macman]

OMG Rick that is a lot of really tedious work!!! How many days & how many Monster energy drinks does it take to build ONE of those contraptions???

[Rick Moore]

Ben, actually they’re a lot easier than you might think… Admittedly I’ve had years of practice building these things (and others), so they seem really easy to me. This is what I do as my version of this hobby, so this is fun and relaxing to me. Rather than tedious, I find the wire bending rather enjoyable and calming. 

 

(True, I enjoy wire bending more than cutting brass, one reason for the lack of said material; besides, I just think the all-wire chassis look “cool”… On the opposite end of the spectrum, look at Terry Schmid’s beautiful all-brass chassis, and tell me they ain’t cool looking too! I’d be willing to bet he’d tell y’all how much he enjoys cutting and shaping them...)

 

And, no, I do not use any fancy wire bending contraption, unless you consider Craftsman needlenose pliers “fancy”. I’ve also found as the wire gets smaller it is not only easier to bend, but also easier to get the various shaped wires to fit.

 

 I’ve built nine 1225’s, so I can bang one out in two days, or build two side-by-side in three days. The 1229’s are a newer design, so the first two took about three days each. Plus I like to take my time with a new design or version. I imagine the first all-wire 0.032” framed chassis will take about the same… Besides, it’s never “long” if I’m having fun.

 

The caffeine binges I use for doing school work… which is what I’m off to do now…   

 

Have fun!

 

Ri(x)ck / CMF3

 

 

[DCR]

....Hello all,,,I Finished this retro Can-Am last week.I think this is #7{Mind is slipping},,I keep making "Tweaks" on the Tonyp/Kamo inspired chassis design.I made this car on the "Long Side" and I plan to build a "Short" car next week just to see whats best.It's about time to put some of my fleet on ebay soon,just to make room for more builds.I hope to test this chassis tonight,so Im hoping it works,as there is no time to build a fresh one for saturdays race....This chassis weighs 43.3g,but may get cut on a little,as it sits it should build a 90g race car.....DC

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[DCR]

....Just me again,it's been a long few weeks.This is a bit different as it's my first F1 build.This chassis is a Warmack kit that Iv tweaked a little bit,"just because".I call it the "Twist-O-Flex".I built this chassis for Foamy to race this weekend,so I wanted to "Document" it before the race{Please don't M-80 it Foam}.I think it's going to run nice,some chassis just feel right when you hold them,and this one feels "Right".........Or maybe I just need some sleep?.....DC

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[slotcarone]

Nice chassis Don!!!  I Don't think it would be legal on the right coast if those center rails hinge in the  tubes.

[Tim Neja]

THey do Mike---but because their side by side--their not a "center hinge"!!  These chassis of Warmack's work really well on our King track!! 

Nice builds Don---you do a really CLEAN build!! Good luck tomorrow!! 
T

[SlotStox#53]

Super clean build Don, lovely F1!!

[raisin27]

My first chassis build in well over 20 years. Thought I should start out with a conventional design and see where that takes me. The rear bracket is from RGEO, I cut the side pans from .032 brass and I'm really not sure where the nose piece is from, possibly JK? Car came in a bit heavier than I wanted at 115 grams completely set up but I think I can do a little trimming here and there to get it down some.

 

Thanks for looking,

Raisin

 

[MSwiss]

Nice job, you haven't lost your touch.

 

Great job cutting and trimming the pans to fit the back pc.

[John Miller]

Nice work Mike.  What size wire on the rails?

[Rick]

Didn't take Raisin long to get back into his building form. Watch out now!......................

[SlotStox#53]

Nice job, you haven't lost your touch.

 

Great job cutting and trimming the pans to fit the back pc.

 

I second this comment! Really neat and professional job, Great return to chassis building.

[Terry]

Hi Raisin,

Did you run that chassis in Can Am at the Demon 500? If so, it looked like it was working really well for you.