3139 replies to this topic

[Cap Henry]

Tim, any issues with the long pan stops and hinge wires getting bent? They seem fragile to me...

[James Grandi]

I was beginning to wonder if I'd ever find myself joining this thread, but that day has come!

 

This is my first retro chassis build. 

 

Forgive the somewhat shoddy craftsmanship, this was the first time I had ever cut brass up and I did the majority of that using a jewelers handheld saw. This was an original JK kit that i cut up to resemble the GVP style frames many have been posting pictures of. I cut the pans off first, as can be seen by how badly those cuts came out. Next was the nose piece modifications, then the pans. Used nothing but that saw and some diamond files to do the modifications.

 

I used Slick 7 bushings in the axle tube rather than ball bearings, because this being my first build it will likely see nothing but testing, modifications and weekly retro races at Modelville Hobby. I'll save using bearings for when I become more confident that I might actually know what I'm doing ( keyword: might ).

 

Other specs:

 -  3.95 WB

 - .062 main rails and tuning fork rails

 - .039 hinge wires in 2mm round tubing

 - .055 up/downstop in 3/32 square tubing

 - motor bracket is from the original jk kit

 - unsure of guide tongue brace manufacturer ( someone please let me know ), bought it out of the case at Modelville Hobby

 

Only other thing I need to get now is front tires, didn't realize the ones I had were oversize for can-am/coupe.

 

I thoroughly enjoyed building it, but modifying the parts sure was time consuming. Had to resist the temptation to stop when the GVP kit I ordered from Rick showed up midway through modifications.

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[John Streisguth]

Nice job for a first effort James!

[Tim Neja]

Tim, any issues with the long pan stops and hinge wires getting bent? They seem fragile to me...

Not so far--but this was an "experimental car at the time--I built it 6 months ago as a "King Track" lightweight--and it didn't work as well as it has since I moved it to the flat track!! Now it's a very nice handling light flat track car at 110 grams. 

 

Very nice build James!!!  Looks great!!! 

[Greg VanPeenen]

James,

 

If that is your first build you should be very proud of yourself. One of the first in the line of cars that lead to the new R-Geo GVP kit looked almost just like that. It worked very well.

 

Keep up the good work. Get your hands on the coming updated GVP kit. You have the skills to build a winner.

 

Regards,

GVP 

[Justin Wills]

Nice job for a first effort James!

 

 

I'll second that.  for a first build, that looks sweet

[Rick]

Came out real nice James. Be proud!.................

[James Grandi]

Thanks guys. It truly is my first retro build. I've been building and running stamped steel/flexi cars for 12 years but everyone I know that has tried retro had great things to say about the racing ( and building ), so I had to try it. Bought a Crutchfield-built F1 from Cap Henry, raced it once and was instantly hooked.

Rick, the kit you sent me is the next thing to go on my jig! Should take less than half the time since I don't need to spend hours cutting up parts!

[slotcarone]

James that is a beautiful build!!!  I am guessing you have a lot of soldering experience by looking at the workmanship on your chassis. I have a couple of necessary suggestions for you.  The JK brackets require at least two braces to preserve the integrity in any crash. You can get some ideas from the Retro East race reports. I also suggest enlarging the hole where the motor bearing goes through if you plan to use any Puppy dog motors that have the bearing soldered into the can.  Have fun racing it!!

[James Grandi]

Thanks Mike. Other than repairing broken wires in electronic devices, my only soldering experience comes from working with the flexi cars. But I had a great teacher to begin with. My father owns a jewelry manufacturing company and has been doing that kind of work since he was 13. He got the 2 of us started in this hobby when I was 11 ( 23 now ). There isn't anything that man can't do with metal and some basic hand tools.

Eric Gerhken made similar suggestions about bracket/tubing braces, ill have to add those before it sees the track.

[Tim Neja]

Yeah the really vulnerable spot you have is the axle tubes.  Those will bend easily in a wall blast-- and the rear motor bracket also.  Check some of Tony P's braces--and others. But you've got a GREAT start!!

[John Streisguth]

And get some Avid ball bearings...they're actually cheaper than the bushings and many racers use them.

[Foamy]

The Avid bearings get loose after 1 race, but then again they are only a buck each.

[redbackspyder]

Why not try the bearings from Doug Fresh Lee on Ebay...  They are very reasonable and you need no bracket bracing when just running the straight ball bearings in the bracket, no tubes....I took the biggest wall blast ever at Buena Park on Sunday when my car was marshalled onto the "other Red (orange)" lane, hit so hard it broke the JK8703 hub and after Bryan grabbed a small plier, my car was given a quick tweak, the aluminum spacers absorbed the hit, the bearings did not even blow out, and I came back to finish 3rd in the race....  $2 bearings that allowed me to podium with nothing more than a Warmack back bracket......  Makes you wonder now about those tubes, doesn't it ? ? ?

[Cap Henry]

Another GVP car, this time built out of the Chicagoland Kit. Not a clean build, but my personal cars usually aren't LOL

[Tex]

Purty don't win nuthin' 'cept on "Tiaras and Toddlers".

[Greg VanPeenen]

Cap, you know the old saying " If it don't go chrome it ". I might tumble mine for a short time to stress relieve it. Then again maybe not. 

[Tim Neja]

Looks like one of my builds Cap---not pretty--but they work!!  And I DO like tumbling mine--I think the nice shiny look helps me drive it better!!

 

Note to James---check out his bracket brace across the top of the bracket and into the  axle tubes!!

[Cap Henry]

I do tumble them, but I only use mineral spirits as I like the matte finish it leaves and no corrosion.

On the few customer cars I've done I spend a lil more time on the solder work so they look nicer. My personal cars I'm not as concerned with.

[Greg VanPeenen]

Tim, you should just chrome yours. If you like that nice shinny look. Maybe you could use some Mothers Competition Finish and wax them. Then you might really go fast. Bet the marshals would love ya. LOL   

[Preston M]

ANNDDDD another 

[John Streisguth]

The Avid bearings get loose after 1 race, but then again they are only a buck each.

I have a lot of races on mine, no problem with looseness.  I oil every heat with Mobil 1. 

[DCR]

I have a lot of races on mine, no problem with looseness.  I oil every heat with Mobil 1. 

 

The Avid bearings Iv used last about 1 to 2 hrs track time and they start getting to loose for me to live with on the king,better oil will not save them,but let's face it online there $1 bearings[or $10 a pair at the track},,,,,,I guess they would still be OK on the flat track.Iv had to switch to the Koford bearings for the king,,,,they roll better and really last,but cost $18 a set,,so it's really up to what your needs are………………….DC

[ejgehrken]

Here are 3 new F1 Chassis I built for Gary Clinton Jr, Gary Clinton Sr, and myself to run in the Fall Brawl 

 

3d Racing Chassis# 27,28,29

4" Wheel Base

8 rails of 0.047" wire

Chicagoland 0.75" bracket

Chicagoland Guide Tongue 

FSF F1 Pans

Weight- 58.5 grams

 

[kvanpelt]

 

The Avid bearings Iv used last about 1 to 2 hrs track time and they start getting to loose for me to live with on the king,better oil will not save them,but let's face it online there $1 bearings[or $10 a pair at the track},,,,,,I guess they would still be OK on the flat track.Iv had to switch to the Koford bearings for the king,,,,they roll better and really last,but cost $18 a set,,so it's really up to what your needs are………………….DC

 

I totally agree DC!

 

I've tried some of the less expensive BB's, but nothing I've tried rolls better than or lasts as long as the Koford BB's.