3139 replies to this topic

[Tampabay racer]

I'm working on another new rgeo/GVP chassis. As I sit here and look at different ideas on how to build her. I wonder if it would be better to install the pans backwards from what's the norm on all the others? I got to thinking as I used to race real cars and front to rear ratio is pretty important in a chassis setup. So has anyone ever done this? If so how did it work compared to the other?

[Samiam]

Jim Fowler did a build like that. Great thread with very detailed step by step.

Sorry, don't know how to do a link.

[Tampabay racer]

Well then what part was it in?

[team burrito]

Here's my latest F1 tuning fork design:

 

 

Instead of pivoting in the middle, it pivots on the outside edge. The only part that moves is the rear end; the front end, side & center pans stay stationary.

 

 

And here's a close-up the reinforced rear end; I used the same design on my previous chassis I raced two weeks ago.  That race, I broke off the front end & blew out both rear bearings (I even lost a shield).  One side of the motor bracket was slightly bent, that was it.

 

 

I made the rear upright brackets from .015" brass; this straighten the rear end better than anything I've tried before. 

[DCR]

Here's my latest F1 tuning fork design:

 

 

Instead of pivoting in the middle, it pivots on the outside edge. The only part that moves is the rear end; the front end, side & center pans stay stationary.

 

 

And here's a close-up the reinforced rear end; I used the same design on my previous chassis I raced two weeks ago.  That race, I broke off the front end & blew out both rear bearings (I even lost a shield).  One side of the motor bracket was slightly bent, that was it.

 

 

I made the rear upright brackets from .015" brass; this straighten the rear end better than anything I've tried before. 

 

 

Nice design and beautiful work,,,,,Please let us know how it runs………….Thanks DC

[Samiam]

Brian,

 It's in Scratchbuilding. Building the R-Geo GVP Chassis.

 

Russ,

 That is a bullet proof rear end for sure. Nice job.

[JimF]

I'm working on another new rgeo/GVP chassis. As I sit here and look at different ideas on how to build her. I wonder if it would be better to install the pans backwards from what's the norm on all the others? I got to thinking as I used to race real cars and front to rear ratio is pretty important in a chassis setup. So has anyone ever done this? If so how did it work compared to the other?

 

In case you're having trouble locating the thread...........http://slotblog.net/...eo-gvp-chassis/

[Preston M]

for stemmy

[Craig]

Yet another GVP clone, this time for me!  If it's better than my Kamo car this is what I will be running at the Checkpoint Cup.

 

[raisin27]

Yet another GVP clone, this time for me!  If it's better than my Kamo car this is what I will be running at the Checkpoint Cup.

 

gvp lighter.jpg

 

Please let us know how it works with the light pans. I had to add a bit of rear weight to mine.

 

Raisin

[brnursebmt]

Here's my latest F1 tuning fork design:

 

 

Instead of pivoting in the middle, it pivots on the outside edge. The only part that moves is the rear end; the front end, side & center pans stay stationary.

 

 

And here's a close-up the reinforced rear end; I used the same design on my previous chassis I raced two weeks ago.  That race, I broke off the front end & blew out both rear bearings (I even lost a shield).  One side of the motor bracket was slightly bent, that was it.

 

 

I made the rear upright brackets from .015" brass; this straighten the rear end better than anything I've tried before. 

Beautiful work, Russ.

[Craig]

 

Please let us know how it works with the light pans. I had to add a bit of rear weight to mine.

 

Raisin

 

Raisin, this is the third installment of this style chassis I have built.  The first had additional .0625" brass slabs just in front of the rear tires and out of the box, no tuning, it was a 4.4/4.5 car. 

 

The down side, it weighed 99 grams.  This new car is going to come in right around 90 and the flex feels much better than version 1.

 

So I'm hoping with the lighter (this new car) and the improved flex it's going to get me in the 4.3 or even 4.2 range.  I would love to qualify into the A Main at the Checkpoint Cup!

 

I'll let you all know how it does when I test it.

[Frankie Schaffier]

Well I took the plunge and gave a shot at my first solo retro build. Many thanks to Cap for answering my many texts asking stupid questions and finding entertainment as I described the smell of burning flesh to him as I tried to figure out how to hold the little parts in place while soldering. Also thanks to folks at JK for a kit that first timers can build!

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[Tex]

Good job, Frankie! You've taken "the big step" in creating your very own chassis!

[Cap Henry]

Frankie did great! Didn't even grab the wrong end of the iron LOL

[Cap Henry]

Making the trip to Washington, PA next weekend, need a stock car to try out.

JK X25R narrowed and lengthened

4.5" WB .75" GL

Plumber pans with the front axle on the Pans

2 rails .062 per side soldered solid

Added a half inch of .032 to the back of each pan

[JimF]

Going spelunking....................

 

Here are some new frames I put together to take to SoCal for a "Caving" expedition. The two F-1s are made up with bracket, guide block and pans from R-Geo. These parts make the frames come together and fit the width regs very well. Testing notes scrawled on the frames are from Slot Car Raceway @ Rohnert Park Ca on their Testa Rossa flat track which is similar to the "Cave"

 

This one uses a 1" guide block that is notched out so that the frame rails mate w/the 3/4" bracket.

5 rails of .039 wire soldered. Samson BB fronts, brass tabs @ rear are 1/16", bracket plate is 3/32"

Added some lead on the top of the center plate to reach the 114 gr.

Falcon 7 geared 7-29 and will probably narrow the JK treated tires.

 

 

 

 

 

This one uses a 3/4" guide block and 3/4" bracket rear weight tabs are 1/16" brass bracket plate is 3/32" brass.

Frame rails are 3 X .047 with a space. Could have been 4 X .047 solid as well.

Two additional brass bits (arrows) on top of the rear rails add ~~ 2.0 gr/side directly under the rear axle. 110 gr.

F-7 motor, geared 7-27 with JK treated (narrowed) This car was a little light. Will add 5 gr on top of center plate.

This car feels the better of the two but that could be narrowed tires which I personally think are a big deal..

 

 

 

 

 

Last is a new 1/32 car. No testing yet as I just discovered that my standby 1/32 was pretty heavily damaged.

Rear motor tray is .032, rails are 3 X .039, all other brass bits are 1/16"  weight 100 gr all up.

S-7 Mini Brute geared 11-40, rear tires are JK 8713 treated and narrowed from the outboard side to 1/2".

Gear side tire is reversed so that the gear hub tucks inside the wheel a bit.

 

 

 

Now......all I need is a headlamp....................

[Greg VanPeenen]

Very nice work.

[gascarnut]

Yes, to paraphrase his own words, he "builds quite well"

 

[stemmy]

What front tires are on the f1's?

[Rick]

Very nice builds Jim, as always. Second to none!......

[Gary Adams]

What front tires are on the f1's?

They look just like the Samson Ball Bearing fronts that I have!

[Craig]

What front tires are on the f1's?

 

Blair, on the first F1 the front tires are Samson Classics.  On the second, they appear to be something Jim may have cut down from a worn out set of rears.

[Rick]

Two just arrived from GVP, R-Geo/GVP Kits:

 

 

 

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[raisin27]

Looks like team RGEO is gonna be hard to beat !